8.1s Spark Plug Replacement DIY with pics

[Zorba]

Over the long 4th of July week I took the opportunity to change my plugs to see if i could get to the cause of my port motor running rich and consuming 10-15% more fuel than the Starboard engine. As you can see I'm glad i did. Not sure when they were last changed, but boy did they need it.

On a scale of 1-10 i give this a 3 beer job and one busted knuckle. Before you do anything remove the inboard exhaust from the engines. This gives you total access and allows you to move around behind the engines. Below I've listed pics and links to the tools and replacement plugs. You will need to use all three lengths of the swivel socket. The boot puller was helpful on a few of the wires but not totally necessary. I decided to give the Champion plugs a try since everything I've read says the AC Delcos foul as fast if not faster than anything else. The Champions are a third of the cost and so far they seem to be working great. I may pull a couple in a few weeks to see, but i am pleased.

After the change I am burning the exact same amount of fuel across both engines and my WOT RPM are at Port 4750 and Starboard 4750. Before i could only get Port 4400 and Starboard 4550.

The only real tricky plug to get to is the port motor, port side aft most plug. Its tucked in behind the Cool fuel and your blind because of the waste tank. On the starboard motor its much easier to see since i had removed the exhaust tubes.

Use these tools to make your life much easier:

Boot puller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STS4E/ref=oh_details_o07_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wobble sparkplug wrench
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NIEECO/ref=oh_details_o07_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I changed to these much cheaper champion plugs from the AC Delco's

 

[Zorba]

When you mention removing the exhaust, do you mean just the tubes that go from the risers to the muffler?

Just the tubes and the elbow into the muffler.

 

[Ctsearay]

GREAT write up Alex! I have to tackle this before our 100 mile trip to Block Island. Did you do wires also?

 

[Hifirush]

Thanks for the info, I never realized they had a tool to remove the wires, but I can certainly understand the need!!!

Matt

 

[Zorba]

GREAT write up Alex! I have to tackle this before our 100 mile trip to Block Island. Did you do wires also?

Thanks. I figure while i'm in there may as well snap some photos and hopefully help someone out that may be afraid to tackle this otherwise. A lot of people are intimidated by DIY but most maintenance items are easily done saving thousands annually on shop bills. I was quoted something like $650 for this. I think i spent $75 in tools and parts and 1.5 hours of my time...

No wires this time. All the contacts look fine. Will probably change them the end of next season depending on how she runs. Seeing how fouled the plugs were this is going on the every other year maintenance list.

 

[DDD]

Nice Job!
I started mine in the heat of summer in FL, and quit after 4 plugs with a busted knuckle on each.
PITA!
Nice clean bilge, by the way.

 

[copb8tx]

I just did this 2 weekend ago and it transformed my boat. My starboard engine was running rougher than my port but once the new ones were in it fixed everything.

BTW, good write-up. It's great having these type of resources documented on this site.

 

[Pyrojodge]

Great write up Alex!

 

[Ctsearay]

Again Alex, I was a little set back by it but I'm all in after your post. Really thanks a lot. Does anyone know what the wire set part number would be? After market of course.

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

Again Alex, I was a little set back by it but I'm all in after your post. Really thanks a lot. Does anyone know what the wire set part number would be? After market of course.

This is where I just got mine,

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/ignition-wire-delco-p-933.html

 

[Mike Blake]

Not to bust anybody's cookies but Jason and I can pull the plugs without taking anything off. Or I have 3 years ago. I put Bosh platinum's in.

 

[boughtabouy]

I did too. I found that with a combination of either one or two 3" drive extensions I managed access with no problem. That's the key. Sometimes only one works better, depending on what you're negotiating around.

No puller tool either. I brought one (the wrong type), and bagged it after the first one. Only had difficulty with one in a hard to reach area. Gloves would probably be a good idea, though, to save your knuckles. Next time...

Kevin

 

[Ctsearay]

Thanks Jimmy,

I'm ordering two sets Monday.. They are the cheapest anywhere on the net. How's the quality?

 

[Zorba]

I guess I need to be more specific that this is for a spark plug change on a 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer. With those big boy blocks crammed in there space is at a premium. Thus the need for removal of the exhaust tubes. Other model boats may have much more room. I am also 6'2 250lbs so I am going to use every tool to my advantage to navagate the ER. The boot puller was not totally necessary but for a couple of plugs it came in handy. Thank all for your comments. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

John no problem at all. if you have any questions or run into snags feel free to contact me.


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[Kreole Kid]

I think I'm going on my 3rd year now with the Champion Plug with no problems whatsoever. :smt038

 

[tbirdvet]

Looks like some cylinders running richer than others (or is that just the light). Did you keep track of which plug came from which cylinder and engine?

 

[Bottom Line]

Over the long 4th of July week I took the opportunity to change my plugs to see if i could get to the cause of my port motor running rich and consuming 10-15% more fuel than the Starboard engine. As you can see I'm glad i did. Not sure when they were last changed, but boy did they need it.

On a scale of 1-10 i give this a 3 beer job and one busted knuckle. Before you do anything remove the inboard exhaust from the engines. This gives you total access and allows you to move around behind the engines. Below I've listed pics and links to the tools and replacement plugs. You will need to use all three lengths of the swivel socket. The boot puller was helpful on a few of the wires but not totally necessary. I decided to give the Champion plugs a try since everything I've read says the AC Delcos foul as fast if not faster than anything else. The Champions are a third of the cost and so far they seem to be working great. I may pull a couple in a few weeks to see, but i am pleased.

After the change I am burning the exact same amount of fuel across both engines and my WOT RPM are at Port 4750 and Starboard 4750. Before i could only get Port 4400 and Starboard 4550.

The only real tricky plug to get to is the port motor, port side aft most plug. Its tucked in behind the Cool fuel and your blind because of the waste tank. On the starboard motor its much easier to see since i had removed the exhaust tubes.

Use these tools to make your life much easier:

Boot puller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STS4E/ref=oh_details_o07_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wobble sparkplug wrench
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NIEECO/ref=oh_details_o07_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I changed to these much cheaper champion plugs from the AC Delco's

Great post! How did find these as a replacement for the AC 41-893? I called a local o'reilly last week and they didnt carry the AC 41-893 plugs.

 

[Zorba]

Kreole Kid was the first to try them. Call your auto parts store and have them look up a 2006 Chevy avalanche 2500. This is how I found them.


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[rondds]

Did this same job in the spring. I bought a "plier-type" boot puller and didn't need to pull the exhaust hoses (I have bit more room than the 340DA), but not the simplest of tasks.

Word of caution...getting boots back ON is tricky as well. I had two different plugs that the boots were apparently not fully seated and one actually dropped OFF. Didn't really know other than the boat behaved a bit sluggishly. Some of the plugs are nestled in fairly tight areas and that tactile "snap-in" is not always easy to detect. After the fact someone suggested dielectric grease to help the boot slip over the plug more easily. Next time.

 

[Bottom Line]

Did this same job in the spring. I bought a "plier-type" boot puller and didn't need to pull the exhaust hoses (I have bit more room than the 340DA), but not the simplest of tasks.

Word of caution...getting boots back ON is tricky as well. I had two different plugs that the boots were apparently not fully seated and one actually dropped OFF. Didn't really know other than the boat behaved a bit sluggishly. Some of the plugs are nestled in fairly tight areas and that tactile "snap-in" is not always easy to detect. After the fact someone suggested dielectric grease to help the boot slip over the plug more easily. Next time.

Ron...I have never used the dielectric grease. Do you put it on the new plug before you screw it back in? What kind of plug did you use?