58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

carterchapman said:
Loosen the aft nuts, place a couple of fenders under the platform and lower it until it “floats” off of the forward knots. Then take a turn or two on the forward nuts, aft, raise it back up, retighten the aft nuts and you’ll have your new angle.
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Thank you everyone! I should have known better but so happy you provided the input and makes it a quicker adjustment. Greatly appreciated! Happy new year!!!
 
VACUFLUSH FRESHWATER INLET VALVE REPLACEMENT

See here:
clubsearay.com

Another SeaFlex/UniFlex work-around

Near as I can tell, SeaFlex fittings are brass, and UniFlex fittings are plastic... and one of our plastic fittings failed recently. The failure happened to manifest itself during replacement of a VacuFlush freshwater inlet valve. I know there are some other threads about replacing hose...
clubsearay.com clubsearay.com

-Chris
 
carterchapman said:
It may just be the angle of the photo, but the bottom bunk looks wider.

That extra filler in the salon port size makes it look smaller.
Click to expand...

Yep, I think you're right, the angle is having an impact. That boat as a door over the smaller shallow locker; ours was open, with a 13" TV there.

And yep, the skinny saloon is different from ours, too. We don't have the curvy things (our port side settee houses a pull-out mattress), and we have a low cabinet with pull-out drawers and the raised glass top forward on the starboard side.

All the drawer and locker pulls are different from ours. Most of ours are just push-buttons; we only have those squiggly things on the Sub-Zero galley units.

The boat photographs well...

-Chris
 
RUDDER ANGLE SENSOR

ranger58sb said:
RUDDER ANGLE FOLLOWER



Revisiting this... 'cause my previous "fix" (splint) didn't last long. I have a query in to our local SR dealer, although I expect they won't have much to offer.

The original was Teleflex #1502871 (per @Robert Serviss) and is now discontinued. Referenced in our Parts Manual as SR #1285063, and associated with style-matched rudder angle and fuel displays:

50 1285063 ANGLE, RUDDER W/SWEEP ARM TELEFLEX

2 1774562 GAUGE, 2" PRT FUEL 24V "PRESTIGE" BLK CHR
3 1323104 GAUGE, KYS 2" RUDDER ANGLE
4 1774563 GAUGE, 2" STB FUEL 24V "PRESTIGE" BLK CHR

I haven't figured out who "KYS" is nor have I found a likely source for our "Prestige" style of fuel gauges -- which match the style of the rugger angle indicator -- but thought that might eventually lead somewhere toward more complete tech data.

There are other rudder angle followers available (KUS, VDO, etc.), but I don't know yet whether this is a 12V or 24V system, nor what the likely resistance levels might be (3-180 Ohm, 10-190 Ohm, etc.) to work properly with the display. Also need to select a 2-wire replacement, whereas some systems out there use three or more wires for power, signal, lighting, etc. (Additional wires might not be relevant to the follower, only the display; haven't looked more closely at that yet.)

This hasn't been overly critical; I'm used to centering the rudders by feel... and we also have a rudder indicator on the AP control head... one rule is that everything on the boat must work as intended, so...

If anyone else has messed with any of this before, I'm all ears! :)

-Chris
Click to expand...

Revisiting this again.

This VDO single-station unit seems to be compatible with the display gauge on the upper helm:


This VDO product is made by Veratron AG in Switzerland is a 12/24VDC unit (uses 24VDC on our boat), and uses a 10-180 Ohm resistance curve. Preliminary testing yesterday indicates it does control the display gauge as expected.

It doesn't include what VDA calls the "balance lever" -- the rod that connects the boat's rudder arm to the unit's "sensor lever" -- but I'm expecting I can re-use the original. I didn't actually try to complete the mounting yesterday (working on other projects), but I wanted to test for viability right away.

There are other similar white sensors, with various screw positions... some with a 0-190 Ohm resistance curve... and some much less expensive (although the $87 VDO price didn't seem unfair to me).

I mentioned KYS, earlier. I suspect that's a typo in the Parts Manual, maybe really meant to be KUS. One of the less expensive rudder angle sensors out there is from KUS. I don't find a current KUS display that matches ours, though. Also, I don't know if KUS existed in 2006; tank level gauges in our previous boats were from WEMA and that's now KUS.... but I don't know if that was an acquisition from a pre-existing KUS, or just a name change sometime after our previous 2002 boat was built.

-Chris
 
Water Tank Drainage question: I recently added water tank cleaning agent from west marine and did the process to clean the water tank. I ended up draining the water tanks through the valve on the waterheater. I am just curious if there is another way to do this besides opening all the faucets or using the water heater drainage valve? Thanks!
 
bhagan said:
Water Tank Drainage question: I recently added water tank cleaning agent from west marine and did the process to clean the water tank. I ended up draining the water tanks through the valve on the waterheater. I am just curious if there is another way to do this besides opening all the faucets or using the water heater drainage valve? Thanks!
Click to expand...
I just open the fwd head sink and galley sink and let the pump run dry. Then add a quarter of a tank of freshwater, and do the same thing two more times. That’s my drain and flush procedure. It seems to work well.
 
When I drain for the winter, I finish with that method above, I open all the valves from the anchor locker to the stern to the bridge to the heads and the galley and unscrew the bridge icemaker line and I take my vacuum to the engine room water valve, and I suck all the water out until there’s no more. I realize it doesn’t get that cold and Chattanooga and I have a bilge heater, but that seems to work well for me.
 
ranger58sb said:
Water heater replacement

Anyone done that? Info?

-Chris
Click to expand...
This is a pretty broad question, or maybe a very narrow one. No, I have not replaced my water heater, but it seems doable. And even easier if you lift out the salon floor (which is not an easy task in itself).

However, I have replaced a few failing parts on my water heater, such as the blow-off valve and the actual water heating element.

Unless the entire unit is corroded or rusted out and leaking, there is most likely a solution available to keep it making water get hot.
 
Thanks... and sorry, my question was a "knee-jerk, what if?" after I tracked down a water leak in the bilge to probably the water heater. And the unit does heat water properly, as usual.

I've replaced the heating element and the thermostat/ECO in a previous smaller Atwood version... and I'm now hoping this is just a failure of the gasket surrounding the heating element. I've had some luck in the past getting those replacement parts from local RV dealers, so I'll see if there are any around where we are right now...

Something I'm a bit unclear about on our E20-220 (i.e., not a heat exchanger version): there's a black marine water hose attached to the pressure relief valve. What's that for? I'd have guessed anything attached to the relief valve would be an outie, a vent maybe, but that hose wanders off to starboard somewhere and then higher...

???

-Chris
 
Chris - i’m at the boat, but aren’t there three vent valves on the starboard side? Two fuel tank, and one I believe is the hot water heater vent
 
carterchapman said:
Chris - i’m at the boat, but aren’t there three vent valves on the starboard side? Two fuel tank, and one I believe is the hot water heater vent
Click to expand...

Ah. So it could be a vent hose that leads from water heater relief valve all the way to the starboard side of the boat. Good, I'll confirm that.

Thanks!

-Chris
 
carterchapman said:
My hot water heater is in front of my stbd engine. I assume yours is there too.
Click to expand...

Yep. And I do have the three vents on the starboard side, so thanks for that. Hadn't occurred to me the water heater relief valve would be vented all the way to the outside of the boat.

-Chris
 
Hello all of my fellow 58 owners. An update and some question. We finally gave up on the yard to complete all of our work from Hurricane Ian. We splashed last Wednesday and got her home Friday. After 10 months they got the half a dozen scratches repaired, the Stb rub rail replaced, touched up the bottom paint and detailed the boat waterline up. The repairs look very good, but trust me, I will never go back. It should have taken two weeks.

Great news is she started right up and ran like I stole her.
View attachment IMG_0220.JPG
We still need to repair a couple bridge windows, replace the little acrylic windshield window, replace our Stamoid window covers (windshield and both sides), replace our dome letters for name and hailing port as they are damaged from sitting in the sun, and replace the aft canvas.

Firstly, Thank you Korkie for the Clarion remote. We installed it today. If any of you need to do this find a very small person. Luckily my wife Chris is small. You need to get inside behind the salon TV. Stand up to be able to get the the screws behind the remote.
View attachment IMG_0226.JPG
Secondly, I am having a weird issue with the Glendinning cable system. It retracts fine, but it will not go out. It run about an inch and then stops. It appears that it senses it is at the end of the cable. Is there a limit switch adjustment? I could not find anything that stood out.

Thanks

Ken
 
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