58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

Yeah, there are pros/cons.

Our GCD guy recommended not using the trolling valves on our Twin Disc gears, but not because of the slippage concept but instead because we don't have gear oil temps/pressures on the monitor display. (And he preferred ZF gears, which have sensors, so no prohibition with those.)

We used the trolling valves in our previous boat -- ZF gears -- a lot, with no sign of abnormal wear. We had no gear oil temps/pressures on those, either.

Kinda similar to engaging Sync, but you start in neutral instead. In neutral, press the troll/sync button (far right). The "Troll" indicator should light up. Once that's lit, engaging a gear/throttle lever past the detente starts with 100% slippage -- gradually decreasing the amount of slippage (increasing speeds) as you move the lever further and further forward.

If you try yours, it'll be interesting to learn if they work or not. :)

-Chris
I will next season.

We can’t take Reward back to Florida since our marina is still wiped out, so we are putting her to bed this week in Chattanooga for the winter.
 
Hi all,

New to this forum and new to the 58 model, having just moved up from a 48. I've been reading through some of the posts here and already so helpful. The knowledge posted here from everyone is very impressive.

I'm having an issue with my fresh water tanks that I wanted to ask since I haven't run across any previous posts. Forgive me if I missed them. Having 2 water tanks is new to me and I'm wondering if anyone has had the same problem I'm encountering. I've noticed that when running the water pump, it seems to be drawing down the starboard water tank much faster than the port tank. The port tank will be empty and the starboard tank half full. Once the starboard tank is empty, the pump starts losing it's prime and is sucking air from the starboard tank, rather than drawing down the port tank. If I close the facets and the pump turns off, after some time, the port tank levels off into the starboard tank and I'm good to go again until the starboard tank is empty again. I'm assuming that this is not how it's suppose to work and that the tanks are suppose to draw down at the same levels, but having never dealt with 2 water tanks, I don't know. Has anyone else had this problem and/or is there a solution to resolve this? To make matters worse, the water level indicators are on the port tank, so it takes a long time in between usage to get a decent reading on the real water levels in the tanks. Any thoughts or information on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
This situation results from the fact that there are two separate tanks, as you point out, but they are connected at he bottom with a single 3/4” or maybe 1/2” connector hose. You are drawing water from the stbd tank faster than it can equalize due to the small connector.

I find the same to be true when filling the tank(s) with dockside water. Even though the fill hose has a “Y” in it to fill both tanks, water naturally fills the stbd side faster than the port. So when the gauge shows full, it levels out to less-than full after about 10-15 minutes. For this reason, I fill the tank slowly over a long period of time to make sure it really is in-fact full.
 
I usually keep my daily trips when I’m cruising to 200NM or less due to fuel constraints. What was the longest run you made with your 58 on a single fill up and how much fuel did you have in reserve when you filled up.
 
I usually keep my daily trips when I’m cruising to 200NM or less due to fuel constraints. What was the longest run you made with your 58 on a single fill up and how much fuel did you have in reserve when you filled up.
After hurricane Michael hit the panhandle, we had to run from Mobile Bay to Boca Grande Inlet to our Marina at Tarpon Point - 550 miles. We ran it 9 Kts and only used 350 gallons of fuel.

Running at 23 to 25 Kts, we’ve run from Clearwater to Panama City Beach - 235 miles and we’ve used 580 gallons. We’ve done it twice and used within 5 gallons of the same amount of fuel each time. That was running at 80% load.
 
I usually keep my daily trips when I’m cruising to 200NM or less due to fuel constraints. What was the longest run you made with your 58 on a single fill up and how much fuel did you have in reserve when you filled up.

Hard to say. First, because we seldom "fill up" and second because under normal circumstances we'd often be running at 8½ kts, with huge range.

From the notes we have from our delivery trip north from Ft. Myers, the longest fuel leg appear to have been from St. Simons Island to Georgetown (239 NM), and we took on 420 gallons at Georgetown. Second longest fuel leg was Coinjock to our home slip in Galesville (178 NM) and we took on 470 gallons after that. That time we maybe came closer to actually filling the tanks than we usually do.

For the whole trip (1124 NM) we averaged 24.40 GPH over 108 engine hours and 2563(-ish) gallons total... and since The Admiral was pushing for us to get home soonest, we only averaged .427 NMPG. Otherwise, we'd have probably made the whole trip on maybe 2½ tanks full-(ish), and probably averaged maybe ~1.5 NMPG. The "ish" is somewhat about not completely filling tanks.

-Chris
 
After hurricane Michael hit the panhandle, we had to run from Mobile Bay to Boca Grande Inlet to our Marina at Tarpon Point - 550 miles. We ran it 9 Kts and only used 350 gallons of fuel.

Running at 23 to 25 Kts, we’ve run from Clearwater to Panama City Beach - 235 miles and we’ve used 580 gallons. We’ve done it twice and used within 5 gallons of the same amount of fuel each time. That was running at 80% load.
Great information exactly what I was looking for
 
After hurricane Michael hit the panhandle, we had to run from Mobile Bay to Boca Grande Inlet to our Marina at Tarpon Point - 550 miles. We ran it 9 Kts and only used 350 gallons of fuel.

Running at 23 to 25 Kts, we’ve run from Clearwater to Panama City Beach - 235 miles and we’ve used 580 gallons. We’ve done it twice and used within 5 gallons of the same amount of fuel each time. That was running at 80% load.
Curious generator on or off
 
That’s good. With a clean bottom, at 80% load and full fuel, I get 23 1/2 kn at 2000 RPM. As fuel burns off, that goes up 5 kts when I’m at 15% reserve.

I get 2340/2350 at WOT with a 30x32.5 (port) and a 30x32.7 (stbd)
Carter, why is there a difference between the Port (32.5) and Stbd (32.7)?
 
Carter, why is there a difference between the Port (32.5) and Stbd (32.7)?

Dunno about theirs, but ours are now both 31" pitch... and our port engine load lags behind starboard load by about 5% or so (I think, from memory) when in sync mode.

I'm guessing next time I'll want our props to be slightly adjusted to give same load % results, too, not just WOT RPM results. That would probably result in some minor difference like Carter's. I think...

-Chris
 
ENGINE ROOM LIGHTS

One of our light fixtures went south the other day, and research finds the just-earlier PO had all original flourescent ER lights replaced (MarineMax Clearwater) in Jan 2019. They used very decent LED replacement fixtures:


Scandvik E-500, 12/24 VDC, bright white, 1520 lumens each, IP65, ignition protected, USCG, ABYC, etc. Available from Defender, $95 each...

-Chris
 
ENGINE ROOM LIGHTS

One of our light fixtures went south the other day, and research finds the just-earlier PO had all original flourescent ER lights replaced (MarineMax Clearwater) in Jan 2019. They used very decent LED replacement fixtures:


Scandvik E-500, 12/24 VDC, bright white, 1520 lumens each, IP65, ignition protected, etc. Available from Defender, $95 each...

-Chris
I used these lights in my engine room and they seem to work fairly well and are bright.

Lightronic RV Under-Cabinet LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVTLS7M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
I’m in Pensacola for a 50 year Fighter Squadron Renion, let me dig out in my laptop when I get home, and see the LEDs that I used. I thought they were cheaper than that.
 
I survived the Reunion! Hadn't seen some of my squadron mates for 50 years - fun time!

Here's the LED's that I used to replace the fluorescent lights in the ER:

Bilge Light LED Conversion​

https://www.fulightopto.com/15-inch-f14t8-led-tube-light-shop

Simple wiring conversion to remove the ballast resister.
 
AC lighting? Our engine room/bilge lights are on our port side 24VDC battery bank...

-Chris
The LEDs are 12-24VDC as I recall. I see what you are saying - the link says 120VAC...I'm sure I got DC from them...they work OK...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,719
Messages
1,417,479
Members
60,767
Latest member
Fixin2b1
Back
Top