- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,534
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
We’ve met him with @FootballFan in Clearwater. My AB12 came from him.
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Any of you have a Highfield Dink? What do you think of the sport 360?
Thanks
Ken
I purchased mine from Lifeline in Cape Canaveral. If you strike out there give them a call they had a lot of stockYes. Brad is the owner. We hopefully make a deal.
Ken
Looking -
This Vid also alludes the open latch.
Any of you have a Highfield Dink? What do you think of the sport 360?
We had a Sport 390 on ours. The 360 was a bit tight around the console, and does not have a seat in front of the console like the 390. The 390 is big on the platform but worked fine. You just need to be aware of it when docking.
My Sport 390 is for sale up in Massachusetts if your interested.
A dockmate ate the Yacht Club used the 1 1/4" rollers on his 52 door last week...
In theory (I think), larger rollers (especially bottom rollers) would roll the weight better than smaller rollers. I think the only down side to larger (bottom) rollers might be about getting the height right to mate the latch mechanism. Assuming the larger rollers can be adjusted inward enough to get under and then onto the upper track once mounted on the lower track.
And since our latch thing was solvable... non-issue, at least in our case.
-Chris
My rods worked, so I didn't touch them. I did mine myself - about 5 years ago - and I know I couldn't do it again now! It was HEAVY! - and I was scared to death that I would break the glass! Since Taylormade wants $3600 for the lockset alone, can you imagine what they want for the entire door!!
I think there are some rods that run from the latch to the top and bottom tracks so when the latch is released the door stays where it is; it won't move when the boat pitches and rolls. At least that is what the literature shows. Mine slides regardless.
Mine has that feature - the door will latch full open. It is released by the handle to roll closed...
Old dock has been torn out. Hopefully within two weeks the dock is done. Therefore, on Friday I called DYS. The fiberglass work is done. Still need rubrail, striping, the little polycarbonate window on the bridge, one coat of bottom paint, and canvas. I should have started nagging a month or two ago.@missnmountains - has DYS started on the boat yet?
I think this is that "rod" to hold the door open.SLIDNG GLASS DOOR ROLLER REPLACEMENT
I've had to yutz around with more adjustments... to get the latch to hold the door closed, to get the latch to lock, to get the latch to stay locked when locked and the handle moves... et cetera. This complicated by the standing part of our latch, different from what's illustrated in the video, now being at the very top of it's adjustment range.
The latch system is now working properly, but... I am not able to get the door level and completely square to the frame -- that whole "reveal thing" -- while still latching properly. Including staying latched when it's locked and somebody moves the handle anyway. Our "reveal" isn't too bad, though... not nearly as bad as it was when I started this whole thing... but it's not as good as I could probably get it if we had 1-1/8" wheels on the bottom of the door.
In retrospect, I think I'd be inclined to use the 1-1/8" roller cart versions -- partly since that's what ours were (didn't know that in advance), and partly because since ours were 1-1/8" and the TaylorMade site is silent on wheel diameter... it might be an OK assumption that all of the TaylorMade doors were made with 1-1/8" wheels.
That's cast in mush, but at least there's a reason for my guess.
Another approach might be to order both 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" wheels, use whichever was original on the lower trucks, use the others above.
This just some rumination for other owners, future maintenance, etc.
I should have mentioned above, there's no way I could have dismounted and then eventually remounted our door by myself. Too heavy, too wide, too awkward... mostly solved by two people, even when both are old and one's The Admiral.
I'm still intrigued by this. So Carter, our hulls are one off from each other, and I'd have expected mostly identical builds. Especially on mundane stuff like doors. No sign of vertical rods on ours, no sign of where vertical rods might engage in the upper and lower track... we've got nothing like that.
??
-Chris
Thanks Carter - I really appreciate it!Tom,
I won’t be on the boat for 10 days, but I’ll get you a picture.
I think this is that "rod" to hold the door open.
It is about 1/4-inch square. It doesn't seem to extend or retract with the handle and why I was asking about how it functions so I can get it fixed when I do the wheels.
Interesting no doubt. Rational thinking would say that both of our boats would use the same door.....Interesting.
No provision for something like that on ours. Ours don't have those three screws in the sides like yours, either... just the two holes.
Here's another view of ours from the bottom, with the Phillips driver on the re-used roller cart attachment screw (and with the new adjustment screw/mechanism in the foreground):
View attachment 149972
-Chris
Interesting no doubt. Rational thinking would say that both of our boats would use the same door.....
Carter's boat has the latch.... I wonder if it is a Palm Coast vs Sikes Creek build difference.... Mine was made in Palm Coast.
RUDDER ANGLE INDICATOR
I didn't get to this quickly, partly because I'm used to not having an extra indicator anyway (so not hugely important), and partly because the indicator on our Raymarine ST8001 AP control panel works well enough...
But our Teleflex unit was salvageable (so far) so eventually I was able to add a "splint" of sorts to reconstruct the swing arm.
First, I epoxied the two pieces back together. The I formed the splint" using a few layers of aluminum cut from a beer can. I wrapped the first, longer (almost the full length of the arm), tin can layer around the arm -- forced to conform to the arm shape -- and epoxied it above and below. Then I added another (shorter) tin can layer directly over the break, ditto. Finally, I covered all that with electrical shrink wrap.
Seems to be working OK now.
-Chris
Our Rigid 12 sport stuck out quite a bit. I had to be very careful on the port side as the propellers could easily hit a dock or piling backing in.We have the 340 with full console. Suzuki DF-20A with electric start and trim. Takes up the whole swim platform.
With the bow just even with the port side of our platform, the prop is about 2" further out to starboard when the engine is tilted enough to keep the skeg off the 'glass.
View attachment 149781
-Chris
Same as ours.Yes, I'd have guessed same, too. I'd have thought Carter's would be exactly like ours, too, since his is the hull # just before ours.
Ours was made at Sykes Creek.
-Chris