58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

[Robert Serviss]

Our 700 BR display had been frozen at 36° for the last two years... beeps when drawers open too long... otherwise, no ON/OFF control, temp control, or alarm control at the unit. Still cooling just fine, separate fridge thermometer says 36° too. When the S-Z tech came to fix the freezer last year, he suggested using the fridge as is until it dies or stops cooling or whatever...

So a couple weeks ago, the 36° went away too. Still cooling, which is a good thing.

I think we're closer to calling the tech back, though.

-Chris

Mine operates the same way

 

[carterchapman]

Ouch! For some reason our display does not always work, but it continues to cool. If I cycle the breaker, the display will come back on.

Ken

Cycling the breaker didn't work, but I turned it off for 30 minutes, and when I repowered it - voila - IT WORKS NORMALLY!! I got lucky!

 

[ranger58sb]

BRIDGE CARPETING

Chris, I’m considering going with Corinthian carpet do you have any photos of your project and specifically where the template came up short and did you do the steps. Thank you

Cruising just now, pics when get home toward the end of the week. -C

We did NOT do the steps... mostly as a matter of preference. Just prefer those to remain exposed non-skid. Haven't done the cockpit either, partly for the same reason... but I continue to debate with myself about that and it's lower priority just now.

Two things about the patterns. One is that our originals were split leading to the chair and table pedestals, and the new ones are not split... so there's some pedestal dismantling to do to install these. Wasn't all the difficult. Pro = better looking (to me). Con = cleaning underneath will be slightly more difficult.

The other is that the patterns they have were apparently made by a blind guy, or maybe somebody with a whole different boat model -- trying tp pass it off as a 58DB. You can see in pics, both pieces are cut too short -- almost everywhere -- so pre-existing snaps aren't covered, binding doesn't go all the way to the edge of the non-skid areas, etc.

Should have patterned it myself.

The carpet is good, though. Good cushioning. The backing isn't that old black crap Sea Ray (and Gioia etc.) used before. The Corinthian replacement we got for our previous boat were something like 11 years old and still looking great. Easy enough to clean (electric pressure washer, haven't yet had to do that on this boat).

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

My two MMDS-CLC 6.3 displays are now fogged up (LCD going out). I know @missnmountains had his MMDS-CLC 6.3 overhead displays repaired by Sea-Tronics. They are now up to $2K each for repair. Has anyone used anybody else for display repair?

Gulf Coast Diesel sent out our 6.3 displays for repair in July 2021, $2340 each. They also sent out the MMDS boards for repair, $1650 each.

Their invoice doesn't say who actually did the work... but you could ask who they'd normally use if you haven't done that already. Since they're affiliated with the Ft. Lauderdale diesel people, I wouldn't be surprised if it was somebody in that general vicinity. Never heard them mention Lauderdale Compass, though. Don't know where Sea-Tronics is.

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

Great info - I'll ask Wendel Angel who they used.

Sea-Tronics is in Pompano Beach...

 

[Robert Serviss]

BRIDGE CARPETING





We did NOT do the steps... mostly as a matter of preference. Just prefer those to remain exposed non-skid. Haven't done the cockpit either, partly for the same reason... but I continue to debate with myself about that and it's lower priority just now.

Two things about the patterns. One is that our originals were split leading to the chair and table pedestals, and the new ones are not split... so there's some pedestal dismantling to do to install these. Wasn't all the difficult. Pro = better looking (to me). Con = cleaning underneath will be slightly more difficult.

The other is that the patterns they have were apparently made by a blind guy, or maybe somebody with a whole different boat model -- trying tp pass it off as a 58DB. You can see in pics, both pieces are cut too short -- almost everywhere -- so pre-existing snaps aren't covered, binding doesn't go all the way to the edge of the non-skid areas, etc.

Should have patterned it myself.

The carpet is good, though. Good cushioning. The backing isn't that old black crap Sea Ray (and Gioia etc.) used before. The Corinthian replacement we got for our previous boat were something like 11 years old and still looking great. Easy enough to clean (electric pressure washer, haven't yet had to do that on this boat).

-Chris

Thank you glad your overall happy with the material. I will definitely making my own template thinking about going with the vinyl aqua weave product.

 

[carterchapman]

So I spoke with Wendel Angel (retired from Gulf Coast Diesel) - he said they used Sea-Tronics for display repair. So I'll ship mine off to them.

 

[carterchapman]

BRIDGE CARPETING





We did NOT do the steps... mostly as a matter of preference. Just prefer those to remain exposed non-skid. Haven't done the cockpit either, partly for the same reason... but I continue to debate with myself about that and it's lower priority just now.

Two things about the patterns. One is that our originals were split leading to the chair and table pedestals, and the new ones are not split... so there's some pedestal dismantling to do to install these. Wasn't all the difficult. Pro = better looking (to me). Con = cleaning underneath will be slightly more difficult.

The other is that the patterns they have were apparently made by a blind guy, or maybe somebody with a whole different boat model -- trying tp pass it off as a 58DB. You can see in pics, both pieces are cut too short -- almost everywhere -- so pre-existing snaps aren't covered, binding doesn't go all the way to the edge of the non-skid areas, etc.

Should have patterned it myself.

The carpet is good, though. Good cushioning. The backing isn't that old black crap Sea Ray (and Gioia etc.) used before. The Corinthian replacement we got for our previous boat were something like 11 years old and still looking great. Easy enough to clean (electric pressure washer, haven't yet had to do that on this boat).

-Chris

Sorry to hear about their template. So making a new one is the way to go. I like the split behind the helm chairs. I used Corinthian "Teak" carpet on my 410. Sent the templates to @Quint4 and he did a GREAT job.

As I have real teak in the cockpit and on the stairs, I think I'll use the teak carpet on the bridge... Here's a pic of my 410's cockpit:

 

[ranger58sb]

RUDDER ANGLE INDICATOR

Anyone have a source for a new rudder angle indicator that’s compatible with our steering system. The original part number is 1502871 and pictured below but can’t seem to source a direct replacement.

@Robert Serviss that looks like a rudder angle indicator, but where'd you get that part number?

Our 2006 Parts Manual doesn't have that number anywhere. There is a part number 1285063, "angle, rudder w/ sweep arm Teleflex" depicted on the Steering System pages 144 & 145.

And what did you do to fix your issue? Our rudder angle indicator may have gone south yesterday...

-Chris

I discovered later that the part number you gave was the Teleflex part number (i.e., not the Sea Ray part number)... and also that the unit has been discontinued. Prob'ly for a long-ish time.

View attachment 145657

The swing arm on top ours just broke recently; looks like a clean break so I'm hoping a repair will work. I think epoxy to reconnect, and then a tight sleeve of maybe mousing wire to reinforce the epoxy.

We'll see... I just brought the assembly up from the bilge today, reckon to try the repair at my leisure, re-install later if the repair seems viable.

There are other similar units available, should that become necessary.

-Chris

I didn't get to this quickly, partly because I'm used to not having an extra indicator anyway (so not hugely important), and partly because the indicator on our Raymarine ST8001 AP control panel works well enough...

But our Teleflex unit was salvageable (so far) so eventually I was able to add a "splint" of sorts to reconstruct the swing arm.

First, I epoxied the two pieces back together. The I formed the splint" using a few layers of aluminum cut from a beer can. I wrapped the first, longer (almost the full length of the arm), tin can layer around the arm -- forced to conform to the arm shape -- and epoxied it above and below. Then I added another (shorter) tin can layer directly over the break, ditto. Finally, I covered all that with electrical shrink wrap.

Seems to be working OK now.

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

SLIDING DOOR ROLLER CART REPLACEMENT

Mine is not that way. The rollers are about $140 each(need 4) from Taylormade. Here's a source for $20 each. A dockmates was hard to moved and sounded "metal on metal" - he ordered these and I talked him through the change,,,

I wonder if your tracks are not parallel the last 6"??

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363220457035

View attachment 131703

Carter/anyone: Have you removed your sliding glass door to replace the roller carts?

I know how to do the adjustments, based on this video from TaylorMade:

And I know (generally) where to get less expensive replacement from Prime-Line or similar.

But I'm wondering how to actually do a replacement if it turns out ours are no longer adjustable enough. IOW, hot to get the old roller carts (aka trucks) out, and then how to get the new ones into place.

The lower roller track appears to just be screwed down to the bottom frame. The door moves back and forth enough to expose most of the screws, although it's not obvious whether all of the track screws are accessible.

Aside from that... is it simply a matter of lowering all of the upper trucks, raising all the lower trucks, unscrewing the track, and then lifting out the door and track at the same time?

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

Your last sentence is what I did. I backed off the adjusting screws top and bottom, lifted the door up and tilted the bottom out and set it down. The trucks then unscrew from the door itself. I did not have to do anything to the tracks themselves except clean them...

 

[ranger58sb]

Your last sentence is what I did. I backed off the adjusting screws top and bottom, lifted the door up and tilted the bottom out and set it down. The trucks then unscrew from the door itself. I did not have to do anything to the tracks themselves except clean them...

Thanks. Good to know. I've just been adjusting, improved the gliding function a bit, but...

I think it'll be best if I replace the roller carts altogether. Do you remember the wheel diameters? The original TaylorMade part number is probably 5101120, shown here:

Taylor Made Boat Parts & Accessories | Rollers and Cars (taylormadeproducts.com)

But they're a little parsimonious with actual factoids.

I see a few candidates on the Prime-Line.net site, but don't see an exact match for the pic you posted earlier... and that eBay link is dead now...

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

Chris - try this one:

https://www.amazon.com/G-S-Hardware-DR-266-Installation/dp/B0BT29MLQJ

 

[ranger58sb]

Chris - try this one:

https://www.amazon.com/G-S-Hardware-DR-266-Installation/dp/B0BT29MLQJ

Nifty, thanks!

That's one of the candidates on the Primeline.net site, too:

D 1858 - 1-1/4 inch Steel Ball Bearing Tandem Roller Assembly, Plain Back, 1 Pack (primeline.net)

Cheers, -Chris

 

[carterchapman]

DR-266 Delmar tandem Roller is what I found...Looks the same as your link...

 

[ranger58sb]

SLIDING DOOR ROLLER CART REPLACEMENT

SLIDING DOOR ROLLER CART REPLACEMENT

Carter/anyone: Have you removed your sliding glass door to replace the roller carts?

I know how to do the adjustments, based on this video from TaylorMade:

And I know (generally) where to get less expensive replacement from Prime-Line or similar.

But I'm wondering how to actually do a replacement if it turns out ours are no longer adjustable enough. IOW, hot to get the old roller carts (aka trucks) out, and then how to get the new ones into place.

The lower roller track appears to just be screwed down to the bottom frame. The door moves back and forth enough to expose most of the screws, although it's not obvious whether all of the track screws are accessible.

Aside from that... is it simply a matter of lowering all of the upper trucks, raising all the lower trucks, unscrewing the track, and then lifting out the door and track at the same time?

Your last sentence is what I did. I backed off the adjusting screws top and bottom, lifted the door up and tilted the bottom out and set it down. The trucks then unscrew from the door itself. I did not have to do anything to the tracks themselves except clean them...

Thanks. Good to know. I've just been adjusting, improved the gliding function a bit, but...

I think it'll be best if I replace the roller carts altogether. Do you remember the wheel diameters? The original TaylorMade part number is probably 5101120, shown here:

Taylor Made Boat Parts & Accessories | Rollers and Cars (taylormadeproducts.com)

But they're a little parsimonious with actual factoids.

I see a few candidates on the Prime-Line.net site, but don't see an exact match for the pic you posted earlier... and that eBay link is dead now...

Chris - try this one:

https://www.amazon.com/G-S-Hardware-DR-266-Installation/dp/B0BT29MLQJ

Nifty, thanks!

That's one of the candidates on the Primeline.net site, too:

D 1858 - 1-1/4 inch Steel Ball Bearing Tandem Roller Assembly, Plain Back, 1 Pack (primeline.net)

Cheers, -Chris

DR-266 Delmar tandem Roller is what I found...Looks the same as your link...

OK, I'm essentially finished. Sure enough, the Admiral and I were able to lift the sliding glass door up and over the lower track. It's heavy and awkward, but we got it sorted.

The original roller assemblies were marked PE/DELMAR ENG and MADE IN USA (in two lines), and the wheels are 1-1/8" diameter. Ours were rusted and groady, gunked up with hair and dirt, not perfectly easy to remove, and three were missing the adjustment screws altogether (counting the one that fell out the other day while I was messing with 'em).

I replaced (using the original mounting screws) with these from Carter's recommendation, with 1-1/4" wheels:

Amazon.com: G.A.S Hardware DR-266 | D-1858 Delmar Roller for Patio Sliding Screen Glass Doors | Tandem Rollers | 1 ¹/₄" Precision Bearing Steel Wheels | Easy Installation | Roller for Sliding Door (Set of 2) : Tools & Home Improvement

Same as Prime-Line versions available from primeline.net or from Amazon:

Prime-Line D 1858 1-1/4 In., Steel, Tandem Roller Assembly with Ball Bearing and Plain (Single Pack) - Replacement Appliance Fastener Hardware - Amazon.com

At their inward-most adjustments (uppers lower, lowers higher), these do only barely fit within the tracks... but we were able to finally snap the upper rollers underneath and then back onto the upper track.

Then it took me a fair bit of time to adjust the latch, partly I think due to the slightly taller roller wheels on the replacements. Our latch adjustment isn't like in that TaylorMade video; instead there's a piece in the stationary door frame that can be adjusted up or down to mate with the latch mechanism on the door. Fiddling with it -- reorienting, sliding up and down, etc., while taking precautions about inadvertently dropping the thing down inside the frame -- was a bit of a chore.

And might have been marginally less difficult if I had used something with 1-1/8" wheels, like these:

Prime-Line D 1791 Steel Sliding Door Roller Tandem Assembly, 1-1/8” D x 5/16” W, Steel, Golden (Single Pack) - Screen Door Hardware - Amazon.com

Hard to say, though, without hands-on comparison. And I'd be surprised if only that extra 1/4" made as much difference as it seemed to. Especially because I hadn't been able to get our door properly adjusted beforehand, so that our sliding latch thingy was already lower than it would have been had the door been square to the frame before I started all this.

The door opens and closes by itself, now. Well, almost. It really closed all by itself once we first got it mounted but before adjustments. Maybe we have a slight list to starboard, or maybe I was standing to starboard and my weight was causing that...

All good now, though. Just gotta get some new plastic bungs (push rivets) to cover the adjustment holes -- to make it look like I knew what I was doing.

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

HULL NUMBERS

I just experimentally entered our hull number into my "Personal Details"...

Thinking it might be interesting if other owners might like to do the same...

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

SLIDING DOOR ROLLER CART REPLACEMENT













OK, I'm essentially finished. Sure enough, the Admiral and I were able to lift the sliding glass door up and over the lower track. It's heavy and awkward, but we got it sorted.

The original roller assemblies were marked PE/DELMAR ENG and MADE IN USA (in two lines), and the wheels are 1-1/8" diameter. Ours were rusted and groady, gunked up with hair and dirt, not perfectly easy to remove, and three were missing the adjustment screws altogether (counting the one that fell out the other day while I was messing with 'em).

View attachment 149636

I replaced (using the original mounting screws) with these from Carter's recommendation, with 1-1/4" wheels:

Amazon.com: G.A.S Hardware DR-266 | D-1858 Delmar Roller for Patio Sliding Screen Glass Doors | Tandem Rollers | 1 ¹/₄" Precision Bearing Steel Wheels | Easy Installation | Roller for Sliding Door (Set of 2) : Tools & Home Improvement

Same as Prime-Line versions available from primeline.net or from Amazon:

Prime-Line D 1858 1-1/4 In., Steel, Tandem Roller Assembly with Ball Bearing and Plain (Single Pack) - Replacement Appliance Fastener Hardware - Amazon.com

At their inward-most adjustments (uppers lower, lowers higher), these do only barely fit within the tracks... but we were able to finally snap the upper rollers underneath and then back onto the upper track.

Then it took me a fair bit of time to adjust the latch, partly I think due to the slightly taller roller wheels on the replacements. Our latch adjustment isn't like in that TaylorMade video; instead there's a piece in the stationary door frame that can be adjusted up or down to mate with the latch mechanism on the door. Fiddling with it -- reorienting, sliding up and down, etc., while taking precautions about inadvertently dropping the thing down inside the frame -- was a bit of a chore.

View attachment 149634

And might have been marginally less difficult if I had used something with 1-1/8" wheels, like these:

Prime-Line D 1791 Steel Sliding Door Roller Tandem Assembly, 1-1/8” D x 5/16” W, Steel, Golden (Single Pack) - Screen Door Hardware - Amazon.com

Hard to say, though, without hands-on comparison. And I'd be surprised if only that extra 1/4" made as much difference as it seemed to. Especially because I hadn't been able to get our door properly adjusted beforehand, so that our sliding latch thingy was already lower than it would have been had the door been square to the frame before I started all this.

The door opens and closes by itself, now. Well, almost. It really closed all by itself once we first got it mounted but before adjustments. Maybe we have a slight list to starboard, or maybe I was standing to starboard and my weight was causing that...

All good now, though. Just gotta get some new plastic bungs (push rivets) to cover the adjustment holes -- to make it look like I knew what I was doing.

-Chris

Great news. I was unaware the DR-266's were and 1/8" more in diameter. That latch is a PITA. I finally got it perfect and used locktite on the threads. It's worked for 3 years now...

 

[carterchapman]

HULL NUMBERS

I just experimentally entered our hull number into my "Personal Details"...

Thinking it might be interesting if other owners might like to do the same...

-Chris

We have brothers (or sisters) - mine is DB 534!

 

[ranger58sb]

Great news. I was unaware the DR-266's were and 1/8" more in diameter. That latch is a PITA. I finally got it perfect and used locktite on the threads. It's worked for 3 years now...

Hmmm.... Loctite! I'm on it!

Here's another pic I meant to include, a new roller in place but with the attachment screw not yet snugged into place:

The replacement roller carts only included an adjustment screw (with nut, toward the front in the pic); didn't include an attachment screw. Reusing the original attachment screws (toward the back, in the pic) worked well enough, even though they're not nice and shiny.

We have brothers (or sisters) - mine is DB 534!

Yep, I'd seen that upthread, quite some time ago. If you leave out the words "Sea Ray" then it looks like "20xx 58DB #xxxx" (without quotes) fits in the avatar window nicely.



-Chris