58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

[ranger58sb]

I think our Rigid with a 40HP and all of the gear was close to 1,000 pounds.

I have an AB 12 with a 40HP ETEC, and I think when I ride up with it, I'm at 1000 Lbs (total - not me!!), and it seems to do OK.

Wow! Spec sheet "wet weight" for our CL340 with console and 20-hp outboard is 491-lbs.

I'm reminded max recommended HP would be 25, but I didn't want to go up to another engine platform size.

-Chris

 

[550 DB]

Has anyone had an issue with the painted on black mask on the large widows?Specifically the galley window. It’s on the inside surface used to frame the window opening and cover inside elements when looking from the outside in. There is spot on the window where it covers the post with the indirect lights from the outside and it’s peeling and you can now see inside the boat . There is no good way of getting at it other than removing the window or the parts and pieces behind the window inside the boat. Not a functional issue just cosmetic. Attached is a picture from the inside looking out the galley window showing a spot where it’s peeled. Just wondering if there’s an easier way to deal with this. Thanks.

 

[Caloosacaptain]

Has anyone had an issue with the painted on black mask on the large widows?Specifically the galley window. It’s on the inside surface used to frame the window opening and cover inside elements when looking from the outside in. There is spot on the window where it covers the post with the indirect lights from the outside and it’s peeling and you can now see inside the boat . There is no good way of getting at it other than removing the window or the parts and pieces behind the window inside the boat. Not a functional issue just cosmetic. Attached is a picture from the inside looking out the galley window showing a spot where it’s peeled. Just wondering if there’s an easier way to deal with this. Thanks.

I have not had any issues with ours; however looking at your picture it may just be a simple fix with with some black tape to fill that in or getting the right kind of black paint and just masking it off and painting in the chipped area. Just my two cents. Good luck!

 

[carterchapman]

Has anyone had an issue with the painted on black mask on the large widows?Specifically the galley window. It’s on the inside surface used to frame the window opening and cover inside elements when looking from the outside in. There is spot on the window where it covers the post with the indirect lights from the outside and it’s peeling and you can now see inside the boat . There is no good way of getting at it other than removing the window or the parts and pieces behind the window inside the boat. Not a functional issue just cosmetic. Attached is a picture from the inside looking out the galley window showing a spot where it’s peeled. Just wondering if there’s an easier way to deal with this. Thanks.

I'll look at ours closely on Friday, but I haven't seen any of that.

 

[550 DB]

I have not had any issues with ours; however looking at your picture it may just be a simple fix with with some black tape to fill that in or getting the right kind of black paint and just masking it off and painting in the chipped area. Just my two cents. Good luck!

Thanks, that was my thinking but a lot of it is trapped between the inside of the window and the center post. Basically there is no way to get at it other than removing the window or the cabinetry/trim inside. It is weird as its only this window and doesn't appear to effect the bond line at all. Just looks like hell.

 

[carterchapman]

Just got a call from my mechanic - he was able to get the bridge AC Unit out without disassembling the upper half of the helm he took the original unit apart. He got the new CTM unit in by removing the fan and housing. He said the PITA is hooking up the 6 hoses...

 

[ranger58sb]

Just got a call from my mechanic - he was able to get the bridge AC Unit out without disassembling the upper half of the helm he took the original unit apart. He got the new CTM unit in by removing the fan and housing. He said the PITA is hooking up the 6 hoses...

Yeah... we replaced ours last year with a new Dometic 27K BTU unit.

The original unit would have never come out without dismantling, and nor would a new unit go back in ditto...

The lower part of the helm does actually come off, relatively easily after removing the "knee muff" bolster... which is hung on using Christmas Tree (door) clips. Even then, hooking up the hoses was a big deal.

But then there's the bolster to deal with, 'cause the door clips may not have (usually might not have) survived the process, and in order to get new clip in, the upholstery needs to be at least partially undone. (Ask me how I know all this.)

Our bolster was hosed anyway, though. Looks like it was improperly installed at the factory from the git-go, so there are a couple areas where the thing curls away from the helm... We put it back on once, with new door clips and thinking we'd cracked the code...

But nope, it'll need to come off again and the door clip holes (both on the bolster and in the dash) need to be drilled simultaneously. I'm learning about upholstery <sigh>...

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

I knew you had to tear the helm apart. My guy tore the bad unit apart and removed the fan case from the new unit and got it in. Assembling the 6 ducts was a PITA he said...

 

[carterchapman]

Has anyone had an issue with the painted on black mask on the large widows?Specifically the galley window. It’s on the inside surface used to frame the window opening and cover inside elements when looking from the outside in. There is spot on the window where it covers the post with the indirect lights from the outside and it’s peeling and you can now see inside the boat . There is no good way of getting at it other than removing the window or the parts and pieces behind the window inside the boat. Not a functional issue just cosmetic. Attached is a picture from the inside looking out the galley window showing a spot where it’s peeled. Just wondering if there’s an easier way to deal with this. Thanks.

The 550 must be different from the ‘06 58.
My pics are too large. Let me figure how to shrink them.

 

[carterchapman]

 

[carterchapman]

Much smaller mask on the ‘06 58

 

[ranger58sb]

SEA RAY SYSTEMS MONITOR

SEA RAY SYSTEMS MONITOR

Ours stopped working sometime in mid- to late-May, possibly coincident with an unrelated electronic installation... so it might actually just be inadvertently disconnected somewhere.

I've seen several useful posts here on CSR with updated monitoring solutions, but I hope to not have to go there just now...

I have "recycled the circuit breaker" per owner's manual. Nada. I've located a disconnected unidentified red (red/vio?) and black wire pair with connectors that could be associated with the Systems Monitor -- using the Systems Monitor Schematic in the manual for guesswork -- underneath the helm. And that's where all that electronics installation work happened. Not sure if the connectors are 75A style, and haven't found an obvious place to connect them.

I suspect my next best step is to test for power at the Monitor.

So what happens when I remove all the screws holding the overhead mounting fascia (aka "gauge panel," in the owner's manual) that holds the engine displays, systems monitor, fuel gauges, and rudder indicator? Does the whole fascia -- along with all those displays and instruments -- come crashing down on the dash?

Or is it maybe hinged, perhaps like the AC/DC panel in the saloon?

Or...?

-Chris

So... as a follow-up to this and to subsequent discussion here in this thread and in Tom's "improve it" thread...

We finally replaced our dead original Sea Ray Systems Monitor, like-for-like, this last week.

The original parts were:
- 1769722 - Panel, Sys Mod IND (LCD), aka Display Control Module, and
- 984682 - Module, Sys Mon Interface, aka Bilge Interface Module (BIM)

New parts, from a member tip in the other "improve it" thread, are:
1907585 - Panel, Sys Mon IND 2007, aka DDU
1907587 - Module, Sys Mon Interface 2008, aka HSNC (Interface Module)

I actually bought the parts back in March 2023, and by then the local dealer discovered an exorbitant price increase since my previous query to them. My price ended up being $1,999.32 for both. And that's after the hefty $567 discount he gave us. Ugh!

We chose the same-for-same replacement partly as the path of least resistance... since we've had and still have other more important stuff to fix... partly because it was relatively easy... and partly because we already have boatloads of engine data, with alarm potentials, on our MAN MMDS-CLC 6.3 display units.

The actual replacement work was a bit underwhelming (assuming the things continue to work as expected. Unplug the en bloc connector on the engine room unit (40mm allen key required) and also unscrew the coax. Dismount the old unit, mount the new unit, plug in the en bloc connector and coax.

Then the upper unit was approximately equally easy, although it's a two-person job to drop and then remount the upper panel... and I had to install female disconnects on the wires from the unit.

Breaker back on, display says "all systems normal" -- done.

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

@ranger58sb = Chris - was kind enough to post his bridge AC replacement procedure requiring the helm to be disassembled. I had a different experience, so I though I would post it here.

My mechanic felt like he could get the unit out of the access door removing the fan assembly, then using a multitool to trim 1/4" off of the bottom of the AC compartment surround and put a 2" notch in the top He removed the nav displays and the wall between the nav wiring and AC compartment for access to remove/install the fan assemblies of the old/new units. The 25,000 BTU CitiMarine Air unit was slightly smaller that the original Domectic and went in without its fan motor installed. So there is a way to do this without tearing the helm apart. Of course, all my pictures are iPhone sideways - when you click on them, they are correct orientation.
Pictures:

 

[Robert Serviss]

BRIDGE CARPETING

I used Corinthian Marine Carpet on the previous boat -- replacing the original crap with the deteriorating black backing -- and the Corinthian product was very good, lasted at least 11 years and was going strong when we sold that boat in 2020.

So I checked, and Corinthian Marine Carpet does have templates for our 58DBs. Five pieces: two for the bridge, and three for the cockpit.

A few weeks ago I ordered the two bridge pieces in their Desert Sand AquaMat berber, with AquaLoc backing, and with taupe Sunbrella binding. $1,735.80, delivered.

The carpet itself, binding, etc., is as I expected, good... and I like the color combo.

The template they used is "adequate." I deduce they were not Sea Ray's OEM supplier and whoever gave them templates didn't do a wonderful job. Doesn't really cover all of the existing, presumably original, male snaps in the deck. (Assuming what we had when we got the boat was original -- certainly the crappy black backing bits all over the place looked original.) Doesn't really cover all the non-skid everywhere. The two pieces don't meet where they should come together. The holes for the helm seats and pedestal table aren't perfectly placed.

I'll go ahead and use it because I need the extra cushioning, but for sticklers (usually including me) I'd suggest doing your own templating.

One point to highlight: the new carpet using their template has circular cut-outs for the helm seats and the table. NOT/NOT slits that lead to those circles, as were in our (original?) pieces. That means temporarily dismounting the helm seats and the table top. Not a huge issue -- although the helm seats are a tad heavy -- and I think I might actually prefer this arrangement, unless cleaning underneath becomes an issues. We'll see.

Speaking of cleaning, beforehand, wifey used her rotary floor scrubber/carpet shampooer on the bridge deck, with the scrub brush attachments and generous helpings of Soft Scrub and water, to get rid of most of the remaining black bits from the earlier carpet. That didn't get everything, but it got up enough so I can put the rest of that job on the back burner until I haven't got anything else to fix. (Yeah, right.)

-Chris

Chris, I’m considering going with Corinthian carpet do you have any photos of your project and specifically where the template came up short and did you do the steps. Thank you

 

[crizz]

@ranger58sb = Chris - was kind enough to post his bridge AC replacement procedure requiring the helm to be disassembled. I had a different experience, so I though I would post it here.

My mechanic felt like he could get the unit out of the access door removing the fan assembly, then using a multitool to trim 1/4" off of the bottom of the AC compartment surround and put a 2" notch in the top He removed the nav displays and the wall between the nav wiring and AC compartment for access to remove/install the fan assemblies of the old/new units. The 25,000 BTU CitiMarine Air unit was slightly smaller that the original Domectic and went in without its fan motor installed. So there is a way to do this without tearing the helm apart. Of course, all my pictures are iPhone sideways - when you click on them, they are correct orientation.
Pictures:View attachment 148390 View attachment 148391 View attachment 148392

Carter,

Who did your AC work? I am in Fort Myers Beach and my 56 Sedan still has the original 24k Cruiseair unit on its last leg. What is your initial impression of the CTM unit?

Glad to hear about the boats in this thread that survived Ian. Sure has been a year to forget. We are around the corner from DYS in Siesta Isles. Miss Olivia survived up the river in LaBelle but unfortunately we couldn't move the house. We took about 8' of water in our first floor.

 

[carterchapman]

Carter,

Who did your AC work? I am in Fort Myers Beach and my 56 Sedan still has the original 24k Cruiseair unit on its last leg. What is your initial impression of the CTM unit?

Glad to hear about the boats in this thread that survived Ian. Sure has been a year to forget. We are around the corner from DYS in Siesta Isles. Miss Olivia survived up the river in LaBelle but unfortunately we couldn't move the house. We took about 8' of water in our first floor.

My mechanic in Chattanooga, who is a CTM dealer, figured out how to get it out without disassembling the helm. The 25KCTM unit, is working great. He did a great job. Glad to hear you survived. Our slip at Tarpon Point Marina is going to be wiped out for another 2+ years. so we’re going to survive at the Chattanooga Yacht Club till it gets rebuilt. And then at 79 years old, I’m not sure we will be able to bring Reward back to Florida again. We’ll just have to see.

 

[crizz]

Thanks for the info. Sent you a PM.

 

[carterchapman]

My two MMDS-CLC 6.3 displays are now fogged up (LCD going out). I know @missnmountains had his MMDS-CLC 6.3 overhead displays repaired by Sea-Tronics. They are now up to $2K each for repair. Has anyone used anybody else for display repair?

 

[ttmott]

My two MMDS-CLC 6.3 displays are now fogged up (LCD going out). I know @missnmountains had his MMDS-CLC 6.3 overhead displays repaired by Sea-Tronics. They are now up to $2K each for repair. Has anyone used anybody else for display repair?

Hey Carter,
These folks make adapters and replacements for the MAN engine displays. Might want to give them a call.
Tom
https://www.boning-usa.com/engines

 

[fr8dog]

My mechanic in Chattanooga, who is a CTM dealer, figured out how to get it out without disassembling the helm. The 25KCTM unit, is working great. He did a great job. Glad to hear you survived. Our slip at Tarpon Point Marina is going to be wiped out for another 2+ years. so we’re going to survive at the Chattanooga Yacht Club till it gets rebuilt. And then at 79 years old, I’m not sure we will be able to bring Reward back to Florida again. We’ll just have to see.

Carter, I'll only be 75 by then so if you need a deckie, let me know!