500/520 DB official thread

Nice upgrade. I have replaced the one in the Salon as well. Was easy to steal power from the receptacle near it.

Where did you grab power or did you run a new circuit and breaker?
I added a new breaker and ran a wire to the existing wire. It turned out to be super beefy and works perfectly. Efficient upgrade for sure.
 
I added a new breaker and ran a wire to the existing wire. It turned out to be super beefy and works perfectly. Efficient upgrade for sure.
Nice! Is that a friction fit or does it click into the Vimar stuff?
 
Nice! Is that a friction fit or does it click into the Vimar stuff?
Friction/click fit. It’s pretty perfect. I’m still not satisfied with my choice of charger though. I’m not getting the wattage promised on the packaging. I am testing out two other brands soon.
 
Very interesting leak. I hope someone in the group can help me figure this one out.

Last night, I accidentally left 2 bridge panels open and it rained a ton. The pics below show the panels zipped back up.

Anyways, this morning, I found the top edge of the door frame leaking around the screws. Water obviously is pooling above the door frame, but how is it likely getting in? Has anyone had this issue before? I normally zip up all of my bridge panels, so I am glad I was here when this happened and not at home.

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Also, from the last pic, it looks like this has been a chronic issue for the life of the boat. I think the culprit could be some crews holding down the back bench that were not sealed with 4200.

IMG_3746.jpeg


Has anyone else seen this leak in their boat? And has anyone resealed this area and replaced the warped wood? I’m embarrassed that I never noticed this before. I wonder how long it has been going on. Darn boats! Haha.
 
Very interesting leak. I hope someone in the group can help me figure this one out.

Last night, I accidentally left 2 bridge panels open and it rained a ton. The pics below show the panels zipped back up.

Anyways, this morning, I found the top edge of the door frame leaking around the screws. Water obviously is pooling above the door frame, but how is it likely getting in? Has anyone had this issue before? I normally zip up all of my bridge panels, so I am glad I was here when this happened and not at home.

View attachment 150904View attachment 150905View attachment 150906View attachment 150907View attachment 150908View attachment 150909View attachment 150910

Also, from the last pic, it looks like this has been a chronic issue for the life of the boat. I think the culprit could be some crews holding down the back bench that were not sealed with 4200.

View attachment 150911

Has anyone else seen this leak in their boat? And has anyone resealed this area and replaced the warped wood? I’m embarrassed that I never noticed this before. I wonder how long it has been going on. Darn boats! Haha.
The bridge seam line above the windshield is one of the primary causes of leaks towards the back of the solon, believe it or not. The caulking becomes compromised over time and water enters that area and runs along the seam to the back of the boat.
That is a lot of water on the bridge to be from the canvas but possible. Verify the leak isn't from the bridge icemaker or sink.
 
Ohh very interesting! This has been a slow “leak” for a while, so I am glad I left 3 bridge canvas panels open last night to “expose” this issue /s/. Haha.

I will evaluate all seam lines. I also need to redo most of the caulking anyways. What type of caulk do you recommend Tom? Also, I do not have a bridge ice maker, but I do have a deep built-in bucket with drain.

Also, I have a ton of snaps drilled into the fiberglass to hold down the carpet, so I a leaky one of these could be additive as well.
 
As long as we’re talking about seams, is there a preferred sealant? I need to address the bridge caulking and a little around the side windows.
 
Ditto. I want to tackle resealing these seams this winter. Also, I am thinking black sealant around windows will look better as well (and will be resistant to the black mold dots, etc).

Please let me know what product you recommend and if this can be done by a nerdy novice.
 
I was thinking black RTV like what you find in auto parts stores for the windows. Never seen it in white though. Just black and red
 
Black RTV sounds perfect. I wonder what the OEM white stuff is? In addition to not showing mold dots, black will make the windows look bigger and more modern. I'm a fan of this. Are there any marine products that would work better? If not, I am fine with a material made for auto glass. I imagine this stuff is messy, so masking will be key. It's all a vertical surface too. Fun!
 
Black RTV sounds perfect. I wonder what the OEM white stuff is? In addition to not showing mold dots, black will make the windows look bigger and more modern. I'm a fan of this. Are there any marine products that would work better? If not, I am fine with a material made for auto glass. I imagine this stuff is messy, so masking will be key. It's all a vertical surface too. Fun!

Sea Ray suggested I use Sikaflex as noted below.


Use a Sikaflex UV resistant caulk.

Jim Meier
Sea Ray and Meridian Yachts
321 449-8628
 
Sea Ray suggested I use Sikaflex as noted below.


Use a Sikaflex UV resistant caulk.

Jim Meier
Sea Ray and Meridian Yachts
321 449-8628
Ok, thanks. So Sikaflex for around the windows. What about for the rest of the seams?
 
Ok, thanks. So Sikaflex for around the windows. What about for the rest of the seams?
They were referring to all exterior caulking above the water line I believe.
 
Sikaflex-291, Black, General All-Purpose Fast Cure Marine Adhesive and sealant. Polyurethane sealant for Boats, 10.1 fl. oz Cartridge https://a.co/d/aETWIFv
 
Sikaflex sounds perfect. Comes in black and white.
 
I ordered the sbmar filters, but the hose from the turbo is larger than the fitting at the end of the filter. Did you replace that fitting?
Turns out Seaboard shipped the wrong fittings! They're sending the correct ones.
 
As long as we’re talking about seams, is there a preferred sealant? I need to address the bridge caulking and a little around the side windows.
Sikaflex 295UV. I like it better than the polysulfide products like Boatlife Caulking. The only thing is it needs to be tooled before it skins; so you do about 4 feet of joint then tool then another 4 feet.
Pretty much all of the manufacturers are using the 295UV for joints.
https://industry.sika.com/en/home/m...dyachts/interior-sealing/sikaflex-295-uv.html
 
Sikaflex 295UV. I like it better than the polysulfide products like Boatlife Caulking. The only thing is it needs to be tooled before it skins; so you do about 4 feet of joint then tool then another 4 feet.
Pretty much all of the manufacturers are using the 295UV for joints.
https://industry.sika.com/en/home/m...dyachts/interior-sealing/sikaflex-295-uv.html
Thanks so much Tom. Have you replaced the caulking with black around the windows? I am curious how it will look. White makes no sense to me from a mold perspective.
 
Thanks so much Tom. Have you replaced the caulking with black around the windows? I am curious how it will look. White makes no sense to me from a mold perspective.
I think black would look great, but I only need to do the bottoms of the windows. I’m on the fence, dig out all of the caulking and do it in black, or just redo the bottom with white? Probably depends on how many other projects make the short list.
 
Thanks so much Tom. Have you replaced the caulking with black around the windows? I am curious how it will look. White makes no sense to me from a mold perspective.
I did that seam between the solon and bridge that goes above the windshield (that's how I know it can leak all the way in the back of the solon). And, a host deck seams, top of rubrail, etc. Actually, I had a company do the work.
The Black 295UV would be appropriate for the windows. Someone on this forum just did their windows.

It's not as bad as 5200 or 4200 to tool/profile but once it skins don't even try - it'll ball up and look like crap. Ya gotta take it out and start over.
 

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