500/520 DB official thread

That is a great idea. How is it wired up? And did you utilize the 3 bank charger (I assume you have the pronautica 1250) to charge it as well?
 
Yes, utilized the 3 bank charger.

I don't recall exactly how it's wired-it was 7 years ago. I know it runs into a battery switch, and I think it goes into the AC main panel (in front of the battery box) and then into the charger, but I would have to look through my records, which are at home.
 
I love this as a cheap insurance policy. If you ever find the schematic, definitely post it. Thanks in advance.
 
The Salon AC is installed. Total time for removal and install was about 5hrs. The new unit is much more quiet and with the smart start it doesn’t have the hard hit when the unit starts. It also comes with a stainless steel pan so maybe not as much rust in the pan.
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Jeremy, great pics of the salon AC install. What is the new model you chose? I removed the couch this weekend and climbed back in there. My salon AC has an incredibly rusted drain pan that will not drain properly. Super annoying. Sounds like a project for the winter.

Also, Tom, thanks for the info about the auxiliary drain back there. I was wondering what that was.
 
Jeremy, great pics of the salon AC install. What is the new model you chose? I removed the couch this weekend and climbed back in there. My salon AC has an incredibly rusted drain pan that will not drain properly. Super annoying. Sounds like a project for the winter.

Also, Tom, thanks for the info about the auxiliary drain back there. I was wondering what that was.
It is the DCU27-410A W/ Smart start
 
thanks Tom - I think I am going to order one and put it under the bed just in case…

Replaced the alternator before we left on the trip. Wasn’t bad, 2 hours or less install.

Charging nicely now with or without the generator/charger running.

This is a 145amp. Wondered if I should have got the 160amp? This one lags a little from the starboard alternator per the voltage gauge. New alternator 13.5volts versus 14+ bolts for the starboard original alternator.

Happy either way…
 
Oh yea - one other thing; I put a PVC hose adapter union in the raw water discharge hose and extended the hose so I could reach it from the couch by removing the back cushion. This allows me to hook up the descaler and circulate through the HVAC unit. Otherwise access to that hose is through the locker under the bridge stairs on the other side of the wall in an impossible location.

Jeremy and Tom, this final tip is great and adding the PVC hose adapter will make access a ton easier for descaling. Also, did either of you replace the flexible ductwork as well? I cleaned out my flexible ducts and found a ton of that black mold as well. Rigid ducting would be so much cleaner.
 
Garmin VIRB X Engine Room Cam

I just completed my solution for an inexpensive wireless engine room camera, utilizing a Garmin VIRB X from eBay ($100). Since my Garmin 7612 has VIRB functionality built in, install was super easy.

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Also, the 3rd photo is from the camera itself. The 4th photo is from the helm. The chartplotter screen is a tad fuzzier due to it being an older model with fewer pixels, but it still looks fantastic. In addition, there is remote photo and video functionality from the helm, with a time stamp.

Also, the VIRB X does not have low light functionality, but the XE does. Since I do not have this feature, I need the bilge lights on as well.
 
Garmin VIRB X Engine Room Cam

I just completed my solution for an inexpensive wireless engine room camera, utilizing a Garmin VIRB X from eBay ($100). Since my Garmin 7612 has VIRB functionality built in, install was super easy.

View attachment 148512

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Also, the 3rd photo is from the camera itself. The 4th photo is from the helm. The chartplotter screen is a tad fuzzier due to it being an older model with fewer pixels, but it still looks fantastic. In addition, there is remote photo and video functionality from the helm, with a time stamp.

Also, the VIRB X does not have low light functionality, but the XE does. Since I do not have this feature, I need the bilge lights on as well.

@tshannoz - Looks good. I installed a Ring Flood Light Camera in that same location as well as a few other areas around the boat. I like your set up also. I would like the ability to just change the screen to see the engine room. I go to my phone and monitor the area. Advantage is the built in light and low light ability of the camera.

Question - Your engine room paint looks really good. Have you done any touchup to the bilge paint? if so, where did you get it? I have been trying to find some suitable bilge paint that is tinted Oyster color.

Also the label maker you used looks great also. Do you know the model, font and tape you used?
 
Thanks for the compliment. I really like this setup. I did have an issue with connectivity yesterday and it turned out to be the WiFi channel. I switched it to 7 and it has been rock solid (it was set to 4 before and there was likely interference). I love the ability monitor or to take pics or vids from the helm as well. I also removed the battery from the camera because it does get quite hot down there and I don’t want a LiIon battery charging unnecessarily.

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As for the label maker, I use a Dymo 160, font size 24. The black tape and white letters matches perfectly.

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Also, I have never replaced my bilge paint, so unfortunately, I am unable to help you in this regard. This boat has always been in freshwater, so that is likely the reason for the lack of corrosion, etc. But please let me know what you find for a paint match.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
 
Last year, while leaving our marina to start a trip, my port motor bounced down to 300rpm and back to 600 about 3 times. Then, things ran fine. 2 weeks ago while leaving a Mi marina, it happened again for about 3 minutes, then ran at 600, then ran fine the rest of our trip. Any thoughts about where to begin?
 
Last year, while leaving our marina to start a trip, my port motor bounced down to 300rpm and back to 600 about 3 times. Then, things ran fine. 2 weeks ago while leaving a Mi marina, it happened again for about 3 minutes, then ran at 600, then ran fine the rest of our trip. Any thoughts about where to begin?

I have had similar issues with RPM’s bouncing around (loss of power) but it comes and goes. I am confident it is related to fuel issues. I consistently use BioBor and Stanadyne to try to manage any fuel issues (Carter has a strand diving into fuel treatment and the importance).

Not sure if anyone else has had experience?
 
I have had similar issues with RPM’s bouncing around (loss of power) but it comes and goes. I am confident it is related to fuel issues. I consistently use BioBor and Stanadyne to try to manage any fuel issues (Carter has a strand diving into fuel treatment and the importance).

Not sure if anyone else has had experience?
Might want to try to raise and lower the C-Cruise engine idle setting to see if that is chunking.
Also see if it happens when Sync is on.
Lastly, pull the injector harness off of the ECM and check the pins for corrosion and clean as required.
 
Might want to try to raise and lower the C-Cruise engine idle setting to see if that is chunking.
Also see if it happens when Sync is on.
Lastly, pull the injector harness off of the ECM and check the pins for corrosion and clean as required.

Any chance you have a picture of the injector harness on the ECM?

Mine has the random hesitation/miss at different RPM’s and when it does it, it is one motor at a time. So the ECM connection sounds like a good place to check.
 
Any chance you have a picture of the injector harness on the ECM?

Mine has the hesitation at all RPM’s and when it does it, it is related to one motor at a time. So the ECM connection sounds like a good place to check.
Sorry no pics which is unusual for me.....
On the ECM it is the J1 connector.
 
It’s time to evaluate my raw water strainers and unfortunately, I am in a shallow marina with a TON of algae and sediment. Therefore, my port raw water strainer gets clogged up quickly and the clear container gets filthy as well.

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I have a few questions:

1. How can I prevent the sediment and organisms from getting into the clear container and hopefully stay within the cylindrical filter? Maybe add some new gaskets?

2. How do I clean the raw water system? Is there a somewhat easy way to do this?

As always, thanks in advance.
 
Has anyone replaced the poop tank sensors? I clean them periodically, but after some time they stop working.
 
It’s time to evaluate my raw water strainers and unfortunately, I am in a shallow marina with a TON of algae and sediment. Therefore, my port raw water strainer gets clogged up quickly and the clear container gets filthy as well.

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I have a few questions:

1. How can I prevent the sediment and organisms from getting into the clear container and hopefully stay within the cylindrical filter? Maybe add some new gaskets?

2. How do I clean the raw water system? Is there a somewhat easy way to do this?

As always, thanks in advance.
There is no way to prevent the growth with the strainers we have. I stay on top of cleaning them with a dish brush and they seem to stay pretty clear. My home dock isn’t that muddy though. To clean the system it is harder because we have a common drain on the raw water. I do it when the boat it out of the water. I put a bin with a sump pump in it full of barnacle buster and then run the pump through the AC system. I have a T on each leg of the AC system that I can hook a garden hose to. I let the barnacle buster cycle through each leg for about 30min and then flush with fresh water when they are all done.
 
Jeremy, thanks so much for the info. Also, adding T’s to these lines is really smart and will make maintenance so much easier.
 
Hi everyone. Do you know where I can find replacement foam inserts like these to slide into the notches under the bridge windows?

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