500/520 DB official thread

Port engine voltage update

Yesterday, I had my yearly maintenance and tune up done by Cummins. I let the tech know the port side voltage issue and after the service was done, we took the boat on a sea trial. The voltage was rock solid on both sides at a variety of RPM.

Now, I know that electric gremlins can come and go when parts start to fail, but I was curious if an overhead service could reset anything electrically. The service tech did not know, so I will continue to monitor. I made sure to tighten all connections to the alternator as well.

I am heading on a week long trip into northern Lake Michigan and Lake Huron tomorrow, so I hope voltage continues to be solid. Interesting issue regardless. And I am so thankful for the knowledge in this forum.
Nothing in the overhead service proper. However, doing that service I'm sure bumps and pulls a lot of wiring just working that close to the engine especially on the starboard side.
 
Replaced the master a/c unit. Went with the MarineAire 11k BTU unit. OEM was a 10k BTU, was super loud and had a hard time cooling the bunk room (wife’s future office) and the master bath. This new unit is super quiet, pushes much more air so it should improve the cooling issue.

Pretty easy project. Hardest part was fishing a new TStat wire (definitely requires a fish tape).

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Great AC install!

I have a quick question for everyone. I know that Tom and others have installed shunts to eval amp draw, etc, but has anyone simply replaced the analog gauges on the breaker panel with digital ones? Would this be a decent, cheaper option to get a sense of power consumption?

IMG_2739.jpeg

I am currently on anchorage and looking to see how long I can run the “house” batteries before turning on the genset. When switching off different DC devices, I got a huge lowering of amps when turning off the bridge fridge. It went from 8amps to 1amp. I hope this is a correct reading. With a digital gauge, I would feel better knowing my current amp draw.
 
Great AC install!

I have a quick question for everyone. I know that Tom and others have installed shunts to eval amp draw, etc, but has anyone simply replaced the analog gauges on the breaker panel with digital ones? Would this be a decent, cheaper option to get a sense of power consumption?

View attachment 147907

I am currently on anchorage and looking to see how long I can run the “house” batteries before turning on the genset. When switching off different DC devices, I got a huge lowering of amps when turning off the bridge fridge. It went from 8amps to 1amp. I hope this is a correct reading. With a digital gauge, I would feel better knowing my current amp draw.

I believe the most cost effective, accurate and helpful information is via a Victron Shunt. You can add one for the Port Battery, which will monitor all of your 12V systems in the main panel. You can also connect measure Temperature of the Port Battery (for example) or Voltage from a second Battery (starboard). Which is what I elected to do, see below screen shot.

You set up the parameters of your battery for example, mine is set for a Wet Cell which should not be run below 50% and based on my batteries rated AmpHours the Victron calculates the Remaining Time once you are off the Charger.

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Thanks so much. Which shunt model did you choose for the port 8D? And do you monitor with the app?
 
Great AC install!

I have a quick question for everyone. I know that Tom and others have installed shunts to eval amp draw, etc, but has anyone simply replaced the analog gauges on the breaker panel with digital ones? Would this be a decent, cheaper option to get a sense of power consumption?

View attachment 147907

I am currently on anchorage and looking to see how long I can run the “house” batteries before turning on the genset. When switching off different DC devices, I got a huge lowering of amps when turning off the bridge fridge. It went from 8amps to 1amp. I hope this is a correct reading. With a digital gauge, I would feel better knowing my current amp draw.
Digital gauges or analog gauges you won't get the battery data you desire; you really need a shunt and battery monitor system. As @rlynch03 says the remote monitoring and history is informative and important. In my case, if for example, dock power drops I'll get alarms on the batteries on my smart phone and email notifications from VRM. And, it happens more often than I desire. Spending time on the boat without the generator running is nice. With the battery monitor system we know exactly what the state of charge is and when we need to recharge.
Victron does lead the pack on battery monitor systems.
As you are only looking at the Port bank (the gauges in the panel) and local monitor then the most cost effective way would be for a single smart shunt with a Victron BMV712 monitor.
I wanted the remote monitor and helm monitor capability and went with the Smart Shunts with Victron Cerbo and GX Touch 50 interface all integrated with WIFI and the boat's NMEA 2000 system. It was a rabbit hole as he says.
 
There is no true "house" battery bank in our boats. The Port battery provides power for the port engine, cabin loads, CO monitors, and a portion of the bilge pumps and a portion of the boat's lighting. The Starboard battery provides power for the starboard engine, helm and bridge loads, windlass, and a portion of the bilge pumps and nav lighting. With that said the circuit breaker panel in the cabin is powered uniquely by the Port battery. There is nothing installed OEM that provides battery status other than rudimentary voltage gauge.
Consequently, I monitor both of the battery banks. I have a Victron shunt on both of the banks and monitor via a Victron Cerbo. I can status the system on the Victron display I have in the cabin, on my NMEA 2000 devices including the chart plotters, and remotely (like on my smartphone and home computer). I also get alarms via email.
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Thanks everyone for the info - wow! And Tom, thanks so much for this pic a while back. I just purchased a 1000amp Victron shunt to monitor the port 8D and will likely purchase a 2nd one to monitor the starboard 8D in the future. What size jumper wire did you use for the negative terminal? And did you get a mixed 5/16 3/8 jumper wire? I just wanted to confirm before ordering one on Amazon. Also, I love how you mounted your shunts. So clean!
 
Thanks everyone for the info - wow! And Tom, thanks so much for this pic a while back. I just purchased a 1000amp Victron shunt to monitor the port 8D and will likely purchase a 2nd one to monitor the starboard 8D in the future. What size jumper wire did you use for the negative terminal? And did you get a mixed 5/16 3/8 jumper wire? I just wanted to confirm before ordering one on Amazon. Also, I love how you mounted your shunts. So clean!
Everything is 4/0 marine battery cable with crimp ring terminals and adhesive heat shrink. The way I did it the existing battery negative cables were just long enough to use where I mounted the shunts. All I had to do is make short cables from the shunts to the main ground bus bar just under the disconnect panel - connected where the battery negative cables were.
 
Tom, thanks so much. What size holes are in the ring terminals? The Victron needs 3/8, right? Also is the bus bar 5/16 or 3/8?
 
Question on how our boats charge the (2) 8D Batteries (Port and Starboard) from the engines only.
No generator or shore power charging for this question.

I understand both 8D batteries will charge from each appropriate engine while running.

This issue is my port battery or port alternator seems to be outputting only 12volts charging not 14volts like my starboard side

is there something I am missing or does this simply mean I need a new alternator?
 
Question on how our boats charge the (2) 8D Batteries (Port and Starboard) from the engines only.
No generator or shore power charging for this question.

I understand both 8D batteries will charge from each appropriate engine while running.

This issue is my port battery or port alternator seems to be outputting only 12volts charging not 14volts like my starboard side

is there something I am missing or does this simply mean I need a new alternator?
Two things to check - First the alternator field supply voltage. It should be battery voltage. Mine have jumpers from the B+ terminal on the alternator to the field (No. 2). Make sure that jumper is getting voltage to the 2 terminal.
Check alternator out put using a good DVM at it's B+ terminal.
 
Two things to check - First the alternator field supply voltage. It should be battery voltage. Mine have jumpers from the B+ terminal on the alternator to the field (No. 2). Make sure that jumper is getting voltage to the 2 terminal.
Check alternator out put using a good DVM at it's B+ terminal.
Yes, the jumpers on the alternator should both be on the same position on the top. I had this 12v issue when I mistakenly put the jumpers on the incorrect post. I am happy to take pics of the correct setup once I get to our next port of call.
 
Yes, the jumpers on the alternator should both be on the same position on the top. I had this 12v issue when I mistakenly put the jumpers on the incorrect post. I am happy to take pics of the correct setup once I get to our next port of call.

Yes please do. Thank you. I am not familiar with alternators. I will try to find a diagram of our alternators in the meantime.
 
No problem! The jumper should be on the starboard post on both alternators. When my port alternator jumper was on the port post, I was only getting charging at 12V on the port engine.

Here is my starboard alternator. Notice how the jumper is on the starboard post (there is a post to the port as well)

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Here is my port alternator. The jumper is on the starboard post as well.
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Please let me know if you have any questions. This configuration worked for me and solved my 12V issue and got this up to 13.4+ where they need to be.
 
No problem! The jumper should be on the starboard post on both alternators. When my port alternator jumper was on the port post, I was only getting charging at 12V on the port engine.

Here is my starboard alternator. Notice how the jumper is on the starboard post (there is a post to the port as well)

View attachment 148073


Here is my port alternator. The jumper is on the starboard post as well.
View attachment 148074

Please let me know if you have any questions. This configuration worked for me and solved my 12V issue and got this up to 13.4+ where they need to be.
It is the No 2 position - the field. A "2" is stamped on the housing.
One thing about these 22SI alternators is they are very inexpensive.
Make sure you reuse the pulley - that thing cost twice the cost of the alternator if you need to buy one.
 
Oh man. There is a “1” and “2” there. Haha. Thanks Tom.
 
No problem! The jumper should be on the starboard post on both alternators. When my port alternator jumper was on the port post, I was only getting charging at 12V on the port engine.

Here is my starboard alternator. Notice how the jumper is on the starboard post (there is a post to the port as well)

View attachment 148073


Here is my port alternator. The jumper is on the starboard post as well.
View attachment 148074

Please let me know if you have any questions. This configuration worked for me and solved my 12V issue and got this up to 13.4+ where they need to be.

Thanks for info. I will double check but I am 90% sure both alternators are using the starboard jumper.
 
It is the No 2 position - the field. A "2" is stamped on the housing.
One thing about these 22SI alternators is they are very inexpensive.
Make sure you reuse the pulley - that thing cost twice the cost of the alternator if you need to buy one.

Thank you. I will double check the jumper is on #2... Is it best to source the alternators through Cummins?
 

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