500/520 DB official thread

HH5741 - Thanks!
What method is best with the 500/520DB to top off the steering oil and remove bubbles? Is there a one-person method like with outboards? I wanted to ask because with autopilot, things can get complex fast.
 
What method is best with the 500/520DB to top off the steering oil and remove bubbles? Is there a one-person method like with outboards? I wanted to ask because with autopilot, things can get complex fast.
First you must bleed off the accumulator completely - otherwise you'll have fluid all over the helm when you take that fill cap off. I take a small container and fill it partially with steering fluid then connect a hose on each bleed port at the steering ram, place the loose end of each hose in the container making sure they are submerged in the fluid and open the bleed valves.
Then hook up the Seastar fill kit at the helm and invert a full container of fluid.
Then rotate the wheel fully one direction then the other until no bubbles can be seen coming from the hoses. You'll need to transfer fluid from the container at the steering rack to the one at the helm occasionally because you are pumping to the bleed valves. Once no bubbles are seen at the container by the steering rack close those bleed valves and continue turning the steering wheel back and forth. This will cycle the rudders left and right and further purge air from the system. After all of that is done cap off the helm and fill the accumulator then pressurize it to 35 PSIG.
Start the starboard engine and cycle the steering fully one way then the other. The high pressure part of the system is self purging.
 
Thanks so much Tom. Will the final pressurization process happen automatically when the engines start?

Also, is there anything I need to do for the Garmin autopilot in addition to the steps you described so well above?
 
Small victories. My screen door never opened/closed easily. I finally decided to take it off (which involves removing the bolster above the door and the curtain track) and realized the door has no wheels on the bottom. Believe it or not Ace had the correct wheels and handle to replace our cracked handle. Now it slides as it should!
 
Small victories. My screen door never opened/closed easily. I finally decided to take it off (which involves removing the bolster above the door and the curtain track) and realized the door has no wheels on the bottom. Believe it or not Ace had the correct wheels and handle to replace our cracked handle. Now it slides as it should!

That's great. I still have not found a suitable replacement. The door is thinner than most readily available.
 
IMG_2536.jpeg
Port ECM. Voltage issue.

At 1800-2000 RPM, I am getting a warning from my SmartCraft system that the port ECM has high voltage. At this RPM, it gets to over 16V and elicits the alarm.

Once I raise RPM over 2000, the alarm goes away and voltage returns to 13.5ish on the port side.

Does anyone know why this is happening? Both 8D batteries are new this year as well.
 
View attachment 147574
Port ECM. Voltage issue.

At 1800-2000 RPM, I am getting a warning from my SmartCraft system that the port ECM has high voltage. At this RPM, it gets to over 16V and elicits the alarm.

Once I raise RPM over 2000, the alarm goes away and voltage returns to 13.5ish on the port side.

Does anyone know why this is happening? Both 8D batteries are new this year as well.
Sounds like a bad voltage regulator. Best get a volt Meter on the battery to check voltage to rule out a bad gauge.
 
Sounds like a bad voltage regulator. Best get a volt Meter on the battery to check voltage to rule out a bad gauge.

Thanks Jeremy. I spoke to my Cummins tech today and he noticed that I have not been turning off the AC battery charger when running the generator while underway. His initial solution was to turn that off and he noticed much better voltage stability immediately (in his words, two battery chargers were fighting each other). I’m embarrassed that I did not know to turn this off when underway with the generator. But, you live and learn.

I will continue to monitor the voltage issue this week. I’m starting a 4 day trip, so I hope the voltage stabilizes with this “fix.”

Gotta love electric gremlins!
 
Thanks Jeremy. I spoke to my Cummins tech today and he noticed that I have not been turning off the AC battery charger when running the generator while underway. His initial solution was to turn that off and he noticed much better voltage stability immediately (in his words, two battery chargers were fighting each other). I’m embarrassed that I did not know to turn this off when underway with the generator. But, you live and learn.

I will continue to monitor the voltage issue this week. I’m starting a 4 day trip, so I hope the voltage stabilizes with this “fix.”

Gotta love electric gremlins!

I always run my AC Battery Charger while the boat engines and generator are running.
 
I always run my AC Battery Charger while the boat engines and generator are running.
I run both as well and don’t have an issue. The voltage regulator on the alternators should stop charging when the batteries reach a certain voltage.
 
Hmmm. Good to know. Do you think this could be an alternator issue? And what is the best way to test this with my volt meter?

This is the first that I had heard of turning the battery charger off as well. I assumed the chargers were “smart” enough to know what to do. I have a week long trip coming up, so I am looking forward to testing voltages, etc. Very odd indeed.
 
Hmmm. Good to know. Do you think this could be an alternator issue? And what is the best way to test this with my volt meter?

This is the first that I had heard of turning the battery charger off as well. I assumed the chargers were “smart” enough to know what to do. I have a week long trip coming up, so I am looking forward to testing voltages, etc. Very odd indeed.
I think it is an issue with the voltage regulator that is on the alternator. To check bolts put the volt meter on the output lug on the back of the alternator and see what it shows for volts. Try it with engines off, at idle, in the rpm range it is showing over voltage and in the higher rpm range that it is showing the volts going back down and see if the volt meter confirms what your smartcraft gauge is showing. I would to those tests with and without the battery charger on and see what you find. If it is putting out more than around 14v then something is wrong with the voltage regulator. A good starter/alternator shop should be able to replace the voltage regulator.
 
My battery charger died this weekend. We woke up in the morning to the smell of burning electrical. I Tracked it down to the charger. New charger on the way and will install on Tuesday. The boat is 12years old now and these types of systems are starting to fail.
 
Well, that was timely! What charger are you getting next? I’m likely in the same boat (pun intended).
 
Well, that was timely! What charger are you getting next? I’m likely in the same boat (pun intended).
I am just going with the Promariner 1250p which is the new version of what I have now. There are more sophisticated chargers out there for monitoring but the one I had did just fine for me and lasted 12yrs so I wanted to make it an easy swap.
 
I am just going with the Promariner 1250p which is the new version of what I have now. There are more sophisticated chargers out there for monitoring but the one I had did just fine for me and lasted 12yrs so I wanted to make it an easy swap.

And you can add a Victron Shunt that will monitor both 8D’s via bluetooth for as much data as I really need… for a few hundred bucks.
 
Which Victron shunt(s) works best for the 500/520 DB and give the best bang for your buck?
 
I tied both my 8D batteries into one 1000amp Victron Shunt Port House being the primary. Good info but I can not see the remaining time for the second battery (Starboard 8D) but I do get all the info I need since the house circuits are all tied to the port 8D.

I believe @ttmott used one shunt for each battery. He may be able to elaborate on the positive and negatives for that setup.
 
Port engine voltage update

Yesterday, I had my yearly maintenance and tune up done by Cummins. I let the tech know the port side voltage issue and after the service was done, we took the boat on a sea trial. The voltage was rock solid on both sides at a variety of RPM.

Now, I know that electric gremlins can come and go when parts start to fail, but I was curious if an overhead service could reset anything electrically. The service tech did not know, so I will continue to monitor. I made sure to tighten all connections to the alternator as well.

I am heading on a week long trip into northern Lake Michigan and Lake Huron tomorrow, so I hope voltage continues to be solid. Interesting issue regardless. And I am so thankful for the knowledge in this forum.
 

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