480 DB Owners Club

[Brent Nutting]

Welcome. QT sums it up. But it is said that without pictures we don't really acknowledge you


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Haha, I understand the rule of posting a pic. I did on 04.01.2016.
I will try to get better at posting more pics, man do I love these boats.

 

[Brent Nutting]

Hope this one works. First time pulling into home port slip.

 

[mquiet]

Good looking boat. Again, welcome aboard.


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[dcpringle]

Congrats and welcome to the club.

 

[dstick]

Been having issues with my upper stereo. Replaced last year with another Clarion M303. My speakers/Subwoofer up on the bridge have stopped working. No sound at all. Overhead cockpit speakers work. My question is has anybody had issues with the factory installed Clarion APX400 4m amp? I can see the green power light is lit, but no sound at the speakers. Looks like all the speakers up on flybridge go through the amp. Anyone replace? How do you get at it? Can hardly touch it, never mind replace it. What have you replaced with? Want to make it as simple as possible to do. Thanks, Dave

 

[quality time]

My PO had bypassed the APX400 on my boat because it kept blowing fuses. I replaced it with a Clarion XC6610 on a whim but wish I had held out since I'm now changing everything over to Wet Sounds...

I'm currently running the arch, cockpit and sub through the amp and using the head unit for the last set of bridge speakers. As you mentioned, it is nearly impossible to get to. I did as much wiring as possible before mounting then crawled under the dash and contorted myself enough to get the screws in.

 

[Greg]

I know some of you were interested in my new electronics box install. Well, I got the new box mounted yesterday. Here was my process...

I started with a poster board template to get a feel for how big I wanted it and the angles necessary.

Then removed the old box

I then made an inner temporary support structure from 1 inch rigid foam insulation

I then cut and glued plywood panels to the foam

I gave then assembly to Precision Marine Center in New Rochelle, NY to fiberglass and gel-coat it. They did a fantastic job with it. It looks like it came out of a mold. If you ever need custom fiberglass work, these are the guys to go to.

I then had to make a frame to support it up to the hard top to scribe and trim it to fit the contour of the hard top properly. I just made a kind of 2x4 A-frame. Then cut out the holes for the electronics, lights, switches, and speaker 'access panels'. I didn't want the plastic panels with the hundred screws like the factory box.

Here it is mounted, I used angle aluminum to attach it from the inside.

Now I just have to mount all the electronics in it. Two 15.6" Furuno TZT2's and a TZT-9 in the middle.

 

[quality time]

I know I told you before, but that is amazing!

BTW - the kitchen sink mod is well worth the effort, no more nasty smelling sump.

 

[dcpringle]

I know I told you before, but that is amazing!

BTW - the kitchen sink mod is well worth the effort, no more nasty smelling sump.

QT, Is the mod where it goes directly overboard? You'll have to give us the photos etc if so. How high off the waterline, and how you make out this season with it.

 

[quality time]

So far so good, I also changed the guest head hose over the winter. The A/C unit under the steps was pulling the permeated hose smell from the bilge.

I ran the kitchen sink directly overboard, the thru hull is about 6" above the waterline. In hindsight it could have been lower but I didn't want to interfere with the boot stripe. Will follow up after more time goes by.

 

[Greg]

BTW - the kitchen sink mod is well worth the effort, no more nasty smelling sump.

I did the sink mod. I don't think I would have ever figured out where SeaRay hid the screws, so thank you very much for the info.

With that said, here are the details of the mod...

The first step is to remove the backrest in the starboard stateroom. There are screws in the gap between the two 'cushions'.

Next is to remove a ceiling panel. The screws are well hidden, You can see how they slit the material and then tucked it in to hide the screws.

Then the corner piece can come out. A single screw holds it in place using the same method.

Then you can see the drain line for the galley sink. Shown below is after I cut the line and added the thru-hull.

The thru-hull I used is a 1-1/2" right angle from Groco.

One step that I didn't get to yet is to cap the port on the sump box. I think I will use a rubber Fernco cap. I may leave the unused section of line in place if it is difficult to remove, I would prefer to remove it, but it isn't hurting anything.

Then put it all back together in reverse order. I used a plastic butter knife to tuck the upholstery back in by the screws.


This was a pretty simple mod, It's so nice now knowing that whatever food scraps, etc. that gets washed down the galley sink goes straight overboard and doesn't sit in the sump and rot.

Thanks again Aaron for helping me with this mod...

 

[quality time]

Thanks for documenting this Greg....I never remember to take pics until it's too late.

As we discussed before, it's almost impossible to remove all of the old hose. I got about 75% out and capped both ends.

 

[dcpringle]

Thanks guys, this is what i was interested in too. I will be adding this to my list for the fall. Maybe sooner, if i get some free cycles..

 

[Greg]

If you look down by the waterline you will see the added thru-hull. It does take away from the aesthetics
a little bit, but I think the benefits are worth it.

 

[carterchapman]

Greg - that's a GREAT picture!

 

[Hiatus-480]

I had a similar issue, my fittings for the port shower (behind the mirror) was leaking.

Has anyone ever had an issue with fresh water getting into the bilge/storage area that's below the guest stateroom bed? The area that has the 1' x 2' finger-hole hatch? I just launched last week and took out almost 20 gallons today. Discovered the issue end of last year (1st full season owning the boat) but haven't yet discovered the source. It's got to be either a fresh water line leak or somehow water getting in from outside?

So so now I'm trying to pull up the platform to the bed to access what I think are water lines running across the head of the bed, but can't seem to get platform top to come out. It seems to be secured underneath the corners. Anyone ever have to remove this?

 

[Converse48]

Asking for a friend with a 2003 480DB... does anyone know where the fuses/breakers are for the CO detectors? He's got a shorted out wire that must've popped a fuse/breaker. No, it is not the unit itself because it works when moved to a different location, and otherwise known to be functioning units do not work in this location and a meter shows no power to this unit. The wiring diagram shows a breaker or fuse panel for the CO detectors, but does not show where it is. We've looked everywhere that we could think of.

 

[Converse48]

Regarding my previous question concerning the fuses for CO detectors... a call to Sea Ray informed us that there are 4 inline fuses (standard glass fuses) on the lower right behind the main electrical panel. No box or bus or panel, just four inline fuses. We would have never found them had we not been assured they were there!

 

[boltman]

I know some of you were interested in my new electronics box install. Well, I got the new box mounted yesterday. Here was my process...

I started with a poster board template to get a feel for how big I wanted it and the angles necessary.

Then removed the old box

I then made an inner temporary support structure from 1 inch rigid foam insulation

I then cut and glued plywood panels to the foam

I gave then assembly to Precision Marine Center in New Rochelle, NY to fiberglass and gel-coat it. They did a fantastic job with it. It looks like it came out of a mold. If you ever need custom fiberglass work, these are the guys to go to.

I then had to make a frame to support it up to the hard top to scribe and trim it to fit the contour of the hard top properly. I just made a kind of 2x4 A-frame. Then cut out the holes for the electronics, lights, switches, and speaker 'access panels'. I didn't want the plastic panels with the hundred screws like the factory box.

Here it is mounted, I used angle aluminum to attach it from the inside.

Now I just have to mount all the electronics in it. Two 15.6" Furuno TZT2's and a TZT-9 in the middle.

Greg I can't believe you didn't install an enclosed wine rack in that beauty. What a great job you did, I love it but I don't like looking up to see my instruments . Might have you make one for me though , but I want Raymarine , think you could do that buddy???


Boltman

 

[quality time]

QSM owners - has anyone used or does anyone know how to use the backup throttle control knobs and switches under the helm? Sorry, I don't have a pic but always notice them when I'm under there working.