48 DA Owners Club

[ocgrant]

Take a look at the electrical schematics in your owner's manual; it shows the DC electrical arrangement pretty well. I'm pretty sure your main DC circuit breaker panel is similar to the 52DB which has circuit breakers on the left side and circuit breakers on the right side which are the port and starboard battery banks. The important thing is both of those rows of circuit breakers are split into switched and unswitched. The lower breakers on both rows of the panel are unswitched; they do not go through the battery switch you mentioned, rather they are direct to the batteries via a primary 100 amp circuit breaker located in the same panel as the disconnects. These are circuit breakers for things like bilge pumps, engine ecm, stereo memory, etc that you don't want to turn off with the battery main switches.

Tom I think he means when he turns the battery switches on in the salon panel only 1 of them is registering 12 on the meter. I have to check this on mine but I think when I select either one the meter reads voltage.

 

[ric992]

Tom I think he means when he turns the battery switches on in the salon panel only 1 of them is registering 12 on the meter. I have to check this on mine but I think when I select either one the meter reads voltage.

Right they both read if I manually check voltage but one one does on DC meter when turned on

 

[ocgrant]

Right they both read if I manually check voltage but one one does on DC meter when turned on

Rick,
I will try and swing by the boat tomorrow or Friday and power up and call you to show you what mine does. I think if I select either battery I register on the guage but I am not 100%

 

[ric992]

Rick,
I will try and swing by the boat tomorrow or Friday and power up and call you to show you what mine does. I think if I select either battery I register on the guage but I am not 100%

Ok sounds good

 

[500oasis]

Has anyone replaced any of the A/C thermostats ? If so please let me know who I can buy one from.Thanks

 

[ric992]

@ric992

Did you find out anything from Sea Ray on the skylight latch assembly? If you find them let me know as I would like to order some spares to have on the boat.

You can get all the pieces except the plastic latch which one of mine is broken..I will check more on ebay

 

[OldManP]

Ok sounds good

I’m not sure if this answers your question but there is a rocker switch on the panel that will show the voltage of the other battery. Hope this helps

 

[ric992]

I’m not sure if this answers your question but there is a rocker switch on the panel that will show the voltage of the other battery. Hope this helps

Yes and that works..but only one battery will power the DC items on the boat..one powers DC and cranks engine other one won't power any DC items but does crank engines. I figured it was designed to keep one in "reserve" for just cranking..??

 

[ric992]

Hi, my washers for wipers don't spray or squirt enough to clean bit only 3/4 way up the blades. They don't really have any pressure, alot of water but not enough to get to top of blades...is this typical??

 

[ttmott]

Tom I think he means when he turns the battery switches on in the salon panel only 1 of them is registering 12 on the meter. I have to check this on mine but I think when I select either one the meter reads voltage.

Ah got it.

 

[JB MARSHALL]

I just comlpeted the sanitation hose replacement and service of both vacuflush systems. I am feeling the aches and pains of that job this mornining. However it went better than what I anticipated getting the hoses out and installing the new hoses was even easier.

The only part of the hose that was really cracking was at the bend where they attache to the vaccuflush. Once pulled and inspected the entire hose it was not in that bad of condition for 90% of the run.

The prep work is the time consuming part of this job and the hardest part is removing the rubber caulking on the hose that runs through the bulkhead wall to the master head.

Thank you to all of those who accomplished this job and provided such great info on how too. It sure was a great help!

JB

 

[ocgrant]

I just comlpeted the sanitation hose replacement and service of both vacuflush systems. I am feeling the aches and pains of that job this mornining. However it went better than what I anticipated getting the hoses out and installing the new hoses was even easier.

The only part of the hose that was really cracking was at the bend where they attache to the vaccuflush. Once pulled and inspected the entire hose it was not in that bad of condition for 90% of the run.

The prep work is the time consuming part of this job and the hardest part is removing the rubber caulking on the hose that runs through the bulkhead wall to the master head.

Thank you to all of those who accomplished this job and provided such great info on how too. It sure was a great help!

JB

Any pics???? This is on the to do list here in December when it is under 80 degrees in that engine room.

 

[ocgrant]

So was going through my list of to do’s and found I forgot to take care of the starboard forward window loose on the top corner that was spotted during my survey a year ago. I looked at it with the surveyor and knew I needed to deal with it but has been putting it off.... Well checked it Friday and found it getting worse, you push on the top and the thing flexed out 1/4” and you could see sunshine.... Not good, found my project for the weekend. I had already ordered the urethane a few months back on Amazon so i had everything i needed. Started Friday cutting out the urethane but had to go easy since I didn’t want the window falling out and sinking. Today took the admiral with me and a suction cup tool to hold out to it. Popped it out easily, cleaned the old sealant, taped it all off and applied the new urethane, set the window and cleaned the mess. I hate urethane, such a mess to work with but some sticky shit. Brought back memories of my days working with Lamborghini setting windshields. Anyway all went well and came out great. Admiral came up with a good point as she would like a porthole that could open in one of these and I don’t see why not. Add that to the list to call Bormar or Taylor Made not sure who makes these to see if they could custom make a couple of these with a port-hole to replace the center window on each side with the custom one. Easy upgrade if they can make the window. We will see...add it to the list.

 

[JB MARSHALL]

Any pics???? This is on the to do list here in December when it is under 80 degrees in that engine room.

I don't have any pics of the process but here are a couple of the old hoses and you can see how the hose shows cracking on the bend that connects to the vacuum pump. I do have instructions from one of the SR members which was very helpful in confirming the process. The best advice I received was to pull the hoses out and reinstall through the heads vs the engine room. I drilled a hole though the hose and threaded the flat nylon line the marina uses for shrink wrapping boats. Worked great and is very strong stuff. No screws or bolts needed to connect a line to the hose.

 

[Shaps]

I don't have any pics of the process but here are a couple of the old hoses and you can see how the hose shows cracking on the bend that connects to the vacuum pump. I do have instructions from one of the SR members which was very helpful in confirming the process. The best advice I received was to pull the hoses out and reinstall through the heads vs the engine room. I drilled a hole though the hose and threaded the flat nylon line the marina uses for shrink wrapping boats. Worked great and is very strong stuff. No screws or bolts needed to connect a line to the hose.
View attachment 105817 View attachment 105816

Sea Ray had sent me those instructions that I fwd'd.
They are too large to post, but happy to send if someone needs them.

Kudos to you JB, I went the other way and sent them to the shipyard that was doing work for me whenI first bought the boat and had them do it. They reported that there was a clamp on one of the longer runs that was an issue removing the hose. They got it out, but it was some additional time.

 

[ocgrant]

Ok so looking at adding a water maker. It can be wired either 120/240 so either way need to add a circuit. I will need power for 2 pumps booster and HP. Trying to find the right place on this boat to "add a breaker" to the AC circuit. The system will all be installed in the engine room but my biggest issue is where do I get the AC power from and how to protect it properly. Tom I know you are the electrical wizard on this forum and have a water maker... HELP...
Do I need to go all the way to the main electrical panel in the salon (bitch to run wires) or can I achieve this all in the engine room?

 

[ttmott]

Ok so looking at adding a water maker. It can be wired either 120/240 so either way need to add a circuit. I will need power for 2 pumps booster and HP. Trying to find the right place on this boat to "add a breaker" to the AC circuit. The system will all be installed in the engine room but my biggest issue is where do I get the AC power from and how to protect it properly. Tom I know you are the electrical wizard on this forum and have a water maker... HELP...
Do I need to go all the way to the main electrical panel in the salon (bitch to run wires) or can I achieve this all in the engine room?

My watermaker is 120V (this is the one I have - https://www.watermakers.com/ISL-700_p_41.html). The electrical supply is 12 AWG Triplex both from the circuit breaker panel to the watermaker control panel and from the watermaker control panel to the raw water pump. In my boat routing the wire was easy as the solon electrical panel is directly above the engine room. There are spare circuit breaker slots in my panel so that was also easy. My suggestion is to put the circuit breaker for the watermaker on the least loaded 120V leg. In my case on the left side leg in this picture -

 

[ocgrant]

My watermaker is 120V (this is the one I have - https://www.watermakers.com/ISL-700_p_41.html). The electrical supply is 12 AWG Triplex both from the circuit breaker panel to the watermaker control panel and from the watermaker control panel to the raw water pump. In my boat routing the wire was easy as the solon electrical panel is directly above the engine room. There are spare circuit breaker slots in my panel so that was also easy. My suggestion is to put the circuit breaker for the watermaker on the least loaded 120V leg. In my case on the left side leg in this picture -
View attachment 105872
View attachment 105873

Perfect that is the same brand I am looking at just a 400 unit. Ok I figured I would have to do that wire run eventually…lol. What size breaker did you use? I assume I can order that from FP?

 

[ocgrant]

@ttmott can you also show me your booster pump install.

 

[ttmott]

Perfect that is the same brand I am looking at just a 400 unit. Ok I figured I would have to do that wire run eventually…lol. What size breaker did you use? I assume I can order that from FP?

20A