48 DA Owners Club

Swing

I’m seeing that your boat is newer and probably have a newer model transformer.
On my marineo adapter there is a red light on the junction of the 2 30amp legs. That's the red light I am referring to.
 
Yep that’s what I used and no go.
I just went thru this ..if one leg is low in voltage nothing works... I had the marina install a 50amp plug and my problems went away.... not sure you can do this but for me I just had to ask and it was done in a day... I was certainly surprised
 
I ran two separate legs and no luck. Everything I read about the Iso-Boost Transformer is that it is "designed for a 240 vac only input and there is not an available connection for the shore power neutral on the input".
I would pay for an eletrician to come out and have a look. It should be doable if there are multiple circuits, might take some re-configuring but should be able to do it.
 
I ran two separate legs and no luck. Everything I read about the Iso-Boost Transformer is that it is "designed for a 240 vac only input and there is not an available connection for the shore power neutral on the input".
It is 240 Volt and won't work with anything else. It seems you are feeding the two legs from the same phase (same buss of the home's circuit breaker panel), which if you are, will show 0 volts across the power to the Iso-Boost.
Each of the hot legs on the adapter needs to be sourced from separate sides of your home's circuit breaker panel.
If you remove the house's circuit breaker panel cover there will be two busses, one on the left and one on the right. Each buss is 120 volts measured to either the ground or neutral. However, as the busses are out of phase if you measure across them you will get 240 volts. Consequently, the feeds to your boat need to come from both of the panel busses. You can see in the picture how the panel is arranged and how the two busses alternate between the left and right side; this is so a dual pole 240 volt circuit breaker can be installed.
Panel.jpg
 
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It is 240 Volt and won't work with anything else. It seems you are feeding the two legs from the same phase (same buss of the home's circuit breaker panel), which if you are, will show 0 volts across the power to the Iso-Boost.
Each of the hot legs on the adapter needs to be sourced from separate sides of your home's circuit breaker panel.
If you remove the house's circuit breaker panel cover there will be two busses, one on the left and one on the right. Each buss is 120 volts measured to either the ground or neutral. However, as the busses are out of phase if you measure across them you will get 240 volts. Consequently, the feeds to your boat need to come from both of the panel busses. You can see in the picture how the panel is arranged and how the two busses alternate between the left and right side; this is so a dual pole 240 volt circuit breaker can be installed.
View attachment 105133
Ahhh, now that makes complete sense. I bet I was pulling both legs from the same side of the bus.
Would a single source 240V circuit work, in lieu of split 110V, for just charging and 110v plugs?
 
Ahhh, now that makes complete sense. I bet I was pulling both legs from the same side of the bus.
Would a single source 240V circuit work, in lieu of split 110V, for just charging and 110v plugs?
I assume your boat has a single 50 amp 125/250 receptacle and not two 30 amp receptacles. If so then a dual pole 50 amp circuit breaker in the home panel then the appropriate sized conductor to the interface receptacle for the boat. I believe by code and certainly by logic you need to have a disconnect switch where you plug the boat into.
 
Hi, has anyone replaced these or know where to get? Was also thinking if the even one that would work better to open all the way. Thanks
 

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Hi, has anyone replaced these or know where to get? Was also thinking if the even one that would work better to open all the way. Thanks
Rick is it broken or just missing a pin?
 
@ocgrant did you have any luck solving the water issue in the mid ship bilge? I launched mine yesterday after being indoor winter stored (bilge was completely dry) and after quick ride to my slip, I have water again with no water trail. I did change the bilge check value last season but still having the problem. The water yesterday was not clean; therefore must be trapped in the bilge hose something.
Well I spoke too soon... after taking a beating in 3 foot swells at anchor for 5 hours checked the sump today and found a little water and salt residue. So has to be the manifold backing up from the exit going under water. Now I have one back flow valve so I am thinking to add a second inline but not sure yet. Crazy but this is a strange issue that bugs me.
 
One is broken completely, and pins are stuck or broken on some. Only 2 are perfect. I want to be able to open them more when anchor. Was hoping to replace with something better or get all new ones
Rick is it broken or just missing a pin?
 
Well I spoke too soon... after taking a beating in 3 foot swells at anchor for 5 hours checked the sump today and found a little water and salt residue. So has to be the manifold backing up from the exit going under water. Now I have one back flow valve so I am thinking to add a second inline but not sure yet. Crazy but this is a strange issue that bugs me.
I’m going to blowout the circuit with air pressure (just make sure there is nothing causing a blockage and then planning on adding a second check valve. This one really bugs me as well.
 
Pulled the coil off and tested it. It seems to have a weak magnetic pull. I took it off and ran a screwdriver through it and then turned on the heat. It definitely had some pull but not particularly strong.. how strong should it be?
It should snap back with the heat on and the screw removed as you slide the coil off the valve. For reference, try this on one of the units that still works.
 
It should snap back with the heat on and the screw removed as you slide the coil off the valve. For reference, try this on one of the units that still works.

Great suggestion. thanks!
 
@ric992

Did you find out anything from Sea Ray on the skylight latch assembly? If you find them let me know as I would like to order some spares to have on the boat.
 
@ric992

Did you find out anything from Sea Ray on the skylight latch assembly? If you find them let me know as I would like to order some spares to have on the boat.
I called Taylor Made, they are supposed to be getting back to me. I will follow-up with them again tomorrow
 
I called Taylor Made, they are supposed to be getting back to me. I will follow-up with them again tomorrow
10-4 I hope you have good luck as they would be a great find.
 
I just replaced my 2 8D batteries. I just noticed and haven't had the boat long, but when I turn on batteries at switches. Only one registers on DC gauge...is this normal? Only one battery switch powers all DC items on the boat. So to use one for house and keep other one on reserve for cranking engines?
 
I will do some testing, both engine and generator crank perfectly. Also test switch shows good voltage on both..I only noticed it today when leaving the boat and was thinking about
 
I will do some testing, both engine and generator crank perfectly. Also test switch shows good voltage on both..I only noticed it today when leaving the boat and was thinking about
Take a look at the electrical schematics in your owner's manual; it shows the DC electrical arrangement pretty well. I'm pretty sure your main DC circuit breaker panel is similar to the 52DB which has circuit breakers on the left side and circuit breakers on the right side which are the port and starboard battery banks. The important thing is both of those rows of circuit breakers are split into switched and unswitched. The lower breakers on both rows of the panel are unswitched; they do not go through the battery switch you mentioned, rather they are direct to the batteries via a primary 100 amp circuit breaker located in the same panel as the disconnects. These are circuit breakers for things like bilge pumps, engine ecm, stereo memory, etc that you don't want to turn off with the battery main switches.
 

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