460 DA Owners Thread

Anyone happen to know where I can purchase a new hydraulic lift wire/controller that is in the little cubby area? It's all one unit. Thoughts?
 
Blown284 said:
Anyone happen to know where I can purchase a new hydraulic lift wire/controller that is in the little cubby area? It's all one unit. Thoughts?
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You can add an off brand, it's just switches. My marine found an industrial rubberized switch and replaced mine. Something like this from Amazon:

mxuteuk Dump Trailer Remote Control Switch 12V DC Trailer Up and Down Control Switch for Lift Gate
 
401Kation said:
You can add an off brand, it's just switches. My marine found an industrial rubberized switch and replaced mine. Something like this from Amazon:

mxuteuk Dump Trailer Remote Control Switch 12V DC Trailer Up and Down Control Switch for Lift Gate
Click to expand...

Thankk you will check it out. Mine is looking really ratty these days and noticed the black wrapping around the wires is starting to come undone.
 
Blown284 said:
Thankk you will check it out. Mine is looking really ratty these days and noticed the black wrapping around the wires is starting to come undone.
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If it isn't broken yet, tape it up. If you want to, it's pretty easy to add a remote wireless switch (check on Amazon) and then you will only need the wired as a backup.
 
I have a remote with my GHS and usually use it when I return the dinghy to the platform. It's slick to just lower the platform as you approach it (motor off), trim up the motor a bit, then hit the raise button when you have the tender centered. Rarely works that well in practice, but fun to try. I usually use the wired remote to lower the tender into the water. One trick, always run the "down" a few seconds longer than you need to. It evens up the hydraulic cylinders for retrieval.
 
Anyone happen to have a wiring diagram for the mast light? I don’t think mine has been right since I’ve owned it. Thought it was bulbs. Then replaced the whole top light. Still won’t light up both from and back with “anchor” on.
I opened up the access below and found a spaghetti of wire. Help please…
 

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Alright gents. I'm not looking for another boat, but there's an immaculate 2001 460 Sundancer in my yacht club, one owner boat. Kids are grown and they're 'thinking' about selling. Cummins aftercoolers aside, is there any issues unique to this boat that I should be looking for.
 
401Kation said:
If it isn't broken yet, tape it up. If you want to, it's pretty easy to add a remote wireless switch (check on Amazon) and then you will only need the wired as a backup.
Click to expand...

I have a wireless one but man is it spotty —- it will work one second, then the next —- nothing. Maybe I need to replace the little battery in it?
 
Jaws said:
I have a remote with my GHS and usually use it when I return the dinghy to the platform. It's slick to just lower the platform as you approach it (motor off), trim up the motor a bit, then hit the raise button when you have the tender centered. Rarely works that well in practice, but fun to try. I usually use the wired remote to lower the tender into the water. One trick, always run the "down" a few seconds longer than you need to. It evens up the hydraulic cylinders for retrieval.
Click to expand...

Thanks and yes I sometimes use the little remote but it’s not functioning correctly and very spotty. It works, then doesn’t then works then doesn’t ….. maybe I just need to replace the battery?
 
NotHerDecision said:
I, like Blown, have a similar setup. The 16k Turbo will fit under the seat and is significantly better then the original. Now there is a dometic 18k available and I would buy that if I did it again. Happy to talk more about this if you want ideas. Hardest part will be running the electric and pump wires back to the trigger box.

Having an ac in the helm is amazing. It allows me to utilize the back of the boat in the summer or winter as long as the canvas is up. The unit will not keep it cold while you’re under way but it will control the temp once you’ve reached your destination and feels great just blowing on you while you’re running. Definitely something I wouldn’t do without and I just replaced mine 3 months ago.
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Do you think a 24k (like one from MarinAire) would fit?
 
Hi,

I ma looking for the engine room bulkhead wall wiring schematic.

Do any of you have one for our 460 or where could I find it?

Thanks for the help.
 
Blown284 said:
Do you think a 24k (like one from MarinAire) would fit?
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I’m not sure but it’s easy enough to measure. If you do that you will need another pump, strainer, and thru hull so keep that in mind
 
Yes. The march 5ac pump is 1000gph with zero head pressure so it cannot supply all 3 ac’s. It probably pumps 700-800 at best divided by 3 so 250-300 each
 
William Nimmo said:
had to cut the top inside of the fridge cabinet and part of the side of it too, (where the original TV was) to get at the wiper motor,
not an easy job
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Thanks…. I did the same on the inside of cabinet… to get it out. But that panel above sink with the lights comes out. Was just told pull pleated part off to expose screws
 
TN370 said:
Doing some cleaning in the engine room and I filled up the area under the port motor with water before I realized that they don’t drain out. Is that normal?!?! Probably has good reason. But very annoying for a clean freak. Anyone drilled holes or something to drain?
Click to expand...
Yes it’s normal, Don’t drill holes in stringers….
 
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