460 DA Owners Thread

Happy Sunday!

OK, still can't get the salon sofa to move back. We are thinking now that it's a bad switch. I can't find that part number. Does anyone know where I might locate one?

Thanks!!
 
460 owners who have replaced your ANCHOR lights, did you just replace the bulbs? Did you replace the pole? both of my bulbs have gone out and I'm trying to figure out how the heck to get up there and change them. The issue is that I have a camper canvas and I'm nervous about unzipping the canvass......
 
All, I have an engine heating up question.

160 thermostats
New impellers

Boat stays cool running low rpm. Anything under 2k it will stay at 160.

When I bring the boat up on plane and run it it slowly goes to 175-180 on both engines but not over. Boat has 1000 hour service and now has 1400 hours.
I was thinking maybe changing coolant next but thought I would ask.
TIA
 
You have a cooling restriction. Most likely on the raw water side. You said 1000 hour Sevice was done recently, was this an issue before the service? I am leaning on aftercoolers and heat exchangers.

As far as the coolant itself, there is a process to cleaning it with restore. The lack of proper SCA in the coolant can cause corrosion which can block passages but it’s pretty rare since most of us use fleetguard extended life coolant.

It’s a red flag to me you say both engines are doing the same thing at the same time. When did it start?
 
Last edited:
NotHerDecision said:
You have a cooking restriction. Most likely on the raw water side. You said 1000 hour Sevice was done recently, was this an issue before the service? I am leaning on aftercoolers and heat exchangers.

mad fas as the coolant itself, there is a process to cleaning it with restore. The lack of proper SCA in the coolant can cause corrosion which can block passages but it’s pretty rare since most of us use fleetguard extended life coolant.

It’s a red flag to me you say both engines are doing the same thing at the same time. When did it start?
Click to expand...

I am on small lake and don’t get to run it hard many times . I think I have had this issue ongoing. Last year had the heat exchanger cleaned. It stopped it when we tested after work was done but then started back. I only put about 100 hours a year in the boat. I knew coolant is a long shot but figured I would since both engines are doing it. However, port heats up faster than stb. Could it be the water pump itself at higher RPM?
 
Dive Girl said:
Happy Sunday!

OK, still can't get the salon sofa to move back. We are thinking now that it's a bad switch. I can't find that part number. Does anyone know where I might locate one?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Try pushing the sofa back while pushing the switch - both of ours need a little encouragement!
 
The 6cta is a great engine but it does need to stay cool and, as designed, is at that limit. I really recommend doing the heat exchangers and aftercoolers. But before you do that make sure the simple stuff is done.

check the seacocks and make sure they don’t have blockage. Check the strainers and open the caps ans make sure you have good flow. Then check the Sherwood impellers.

I don’t think it’s your pumps because it’s on both engines and that’s just highly unlikely.

if you do decide to do heat exchangers and aftercoolers then you should replace the thermostats as well so you can say it’s been done. (2 on each engine and don’t forget gaskets)

edit: does your lake have zebra mussels?
 
Dougvol said:
All, I have an engine heating up question.

160 thermostats
New impellers

Boat stays cool running low rpm. Anything under 2k it will stay at 160.

When I bring the boat up on plane and run it it slowly goes to 175-180 on both engines but not over. Boat has 1000 hour service and now has 1400 hours.
I was thinking maybe changing coolant next but thought I would ask.
TIA
Click to expand...
Just out of curiosity where are you getting the temp readings from? As mentioned the fact its happening on both mains would make me question the accuracy of the gauge or the actual temp rating of the t-stats? My 3196 Cats will sit around 180-185 at slow speeds and will come up to 197(spec) once on plane. Lake water temps can also make engine temps vary a couple degrees on my boat.
 
Avenger said:
Just out of curiosity where are you getting the temp readings from? As mentioned the fact its happening on both mains would make me question the accuracy of the gauge or the actual temp rating of the t-stats? My 3196 Cats will sit around 180-185 at slow speeds and will come up to 197(spec) once on plane. Lake water temps can also make engine temps vary a couple degrees on my boat.
Click to expand...
Reading at Gauges. I would agree but as I said they do heat up to 160 and stay until getting on plane. I have had this thought. Maybe I should check that as well.
 
NotHerDecision said:
The 6cta is a great engine but it does need to stay cool and, as designed, is at that limit. I really recommend doing the heat exchangers and aftercoolers. But before you do that make sure the simple stuff is done.

check the seacocks and make sure they don’t have blockage. Check the strainers and open the caps ans make sure you have good flow. Then check the Sherwood impellers.

I don’t think it’s your pumps because it’s on both engines and that’s just highly unlikely.

if you do decide to do heat exchangers and aftercoolers then you should replace the thermostats as well so you can say it’s been done. (2 on each engine and don’t forget gaskets)

edit: does your lake have zebra mussels?
Click to expand...

thanks for the ideas. I pulled my paper work from the service. My lake does not have mussels. It did spend some time in salt earlier on in life, So maybe I should just do a clean? At the 1k service they said they did they pulled and serviced the after coolers and exchangers in the report. Also did the coolant. (Maybe worth another look though as I had done prior to moving.) I did check strainers and the are clean. Impellers we’re just replaced. Also replaced thermostats with new 160 last season.
Could it be anything with turbos? Also thought about water pumps but thought those usually all or nothing and i have no issues below 2000rpm. Port is worse than stb however.
 
NotHerDecision said:
You have a cooling restriction. Most likely on the raw water side. You said 1000 hour Sevice was done recently, was this an issue before the service? I am leaning on aftercoolers and heat exchangers.

As far as the coolant itself, there is a process to cleaning it with restore. The lack of proper SCA in the coolant can cause corrosion which can block passages but it’s pretty rare since most of us use fleetguard extended life coolant.

It’s a red flag to me you say both engines are doing the same thing at the same time. When did it start?
Click to expand...
 
Have fought the port side for a while. Stb just starting. What are you thinking when you say Red flag?
 
New props improperly installed and had to try boat pulled and tighten starboard prop - one of the bolts loosened. Keyway was fine.

Now at 2150rpm I’m only seeing approx 16mph whereas previously with old props around 19 mph. So I lost 2-3mph. I’m also noticing the starboard engine warmer than port (it is around 174 starboard vs 163 port. 480CE engines.

Can turn port prop by a finger both at the prop and also down in the bilge. Starboard shaft I can’t turn by hand in bilge but can use channel locks. Same with boat on the hard - have to use some force to turn starboard prop. Cutlass hearing has been checked and was told it’s fine.

thoughts?
 
Blown284 said:
New props improperly installed and had to try boat pulled and tighten starboard prop - one of the bolts loosened. Keyway was fine.

Now at 2150rpm I’m only seeing approx 16mph whereas previously with old props around 19 mph. So I lost 2-3mph. I’m also noticing the starboard engine warmer than port (it is around 174 starboard vs 163 port. 480CE engines.

Can turn port prop by a finger both at the prop and also down in the bilge. Starboard shaft I can’t turn by hand in bilge but can use channel locks. Same with boat on the hard - have to use some force to turn starboard prop. Cutlass hearing has been checked and was told it’s fine.

thoughts?
Click to expand...

I would think it is out of alignment. I had the same issue 3 years ago, turned out the strut was bent from PO. Once the strut was repaired, all was well with the world.
Not saying it's the strut in your case, but engine alignment sounds like the issue if the cutlass bearing is ok.
 
TheWolfTC said:
I would think it is out of alignment. I had the same issue 3 years ago, turned out the strut was bent from PO. Once the strut was repaired, all was well with the world.
Not saying it's the strut in your case, but engine alignment sounds like the issue if the cutlass bearing is ok.
Click to expand...

thanks! When you had your issue , was one of the engines seem to be working harder?
 
Blown284 said:
thanks! When you had your issue , was one of the engines seem to be working harder?
Click to expand...
I didn't notice that. I discovered the problem while at idle speed and in the engine room. I saw a slight wobble in the stbd. shaft as well as a bunch of rusty dust under the coupling. Then I realized three coupler bolts were loose on it and there was a gap on the one side of the coupler. HOLY SHNIIIIKEEEES!!!

Long story short, tightened it all up and made it through the last month of summer boating. That could have been BAD if I had not noticed it and was cruising along at normal speeds.

The big giveaway was really the rusty dust particles forming on the white oil pad I have under both engines. Without the pad, I may never have seen the dust under there.
 
Dougvol said:
thanks for the ideas. I pulled my paper work from the service. My lake does not have mussels. It did spend some time in salt earlier on in life, So maybe I should just do a clean? At the 1k service they said they did they pulled and serviced the after coolers and exchangers in the report. Also did the coolant. (Maybe worth another look though as I had done prior to moving.) I did check strainers and the are clean. Impellers we’re just replaced. Also replaced thermostats with new 160 last season.
Could it be anything with turbos? Also thought about water pumps but thought those usually all or nothing and i have no issues below 2000rpm. Port is worse than stb however.
Click to expand...


Not likely it’s the turbo. Most likely is the aftercooler. They need to be removed. The core removed from the housing and cleaned. I’m willing to help but it’s well documented on sbmar.com. I really recommend the nasty green grease Tony uses on that site.
 
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