460 DA Owners Thread

Update: I replaced the bellows, the duck bill valves and all the O-Rings. However, I am getting a leak at the top of the pump where the 6 bolts are and have no idea why. Anyone have a clue?
 
Update: I replaced the bellows, the duck bill valves and all the O-Rings. However, I am getting a leak at the top of the pump where the 6 bolts are and have no idea why. Anyone have a clue?
VG4 right?
First those two nested duckbills that install down into the box must be installed dry - no lube at all and they must nest into the groove in the spacer and the groove on the pump housing interface. Otherwise they will not allow the pump housing to properly seat and seal on the O-Ring. Now that O-ring needs a very light coat of silicone grease. If the pump housing rocks when in place before the bolts are installed then the duckbills are not correctly seated. The second thing and it's tricky is the O-Ring seal between the bellows and pump top housing. Again a light coat of silicone grease then install it inside of the bellows and slide it on to the pump top before putting the top with the retaining rings down on the pump housing. The trick here is to align the actuating rod so the motor easily installs and is perfectly aligned for the bearing to slide right in.
 
VG4 right?
First those two nested duckbills that install down into the box must be installed dry - no lube at all and they must nest into the groove in the spacer and the groove on the pump housing interface. Otherwise they will not allow the pump housing to properly seat and seal on the O-Ring. Now that O-ring needs a very light coat of silicone grease. If the pump housing rocks when in place before the bolts are installed then the duckbills are not correctly seated. The second thing and it's tricky is the O-Ring seal between the bellows and pump top housing. Again a light coat of silicone grease then install it inside of the bellows and slide it on to the pump top before putting the top with the retaining rings down on the pump housing. The trick here is to align the actuating rod so the motor easily installs and is perfectly aligned for the bearing to slide right in.
Yea it is the pump housing not seating properly. I installed that O-Ring but then it kept dropping down into the bellows... NOT FUN! Turns out that being (!$!$#!#$!#) and rushing to get this job done, I used my drill to speed through getting the screws on and off and have stripped a few of them pretty good. I might end up having to just get a new top piece ..... can't anything be easy? LOL.
 
You really need something to let you know if there is an issue going on in the bilge and it's being flooded. A couple grand isn't worth the potential consequences. Especially in the insurance world we live in now.
The alarm still sounds. Just can’t read the screen. And the $ isn’t a problem. It’s finding someone here in Nashville that’s qualified and willing to tackle the re-fit. So far no luck. It if I can find a replacement sea ray display panel I can swap out myself.
Also consider taking it to a tv repair shop to see if they can replace the display…
 
The alarm still sounds. Just can’t read the screen. And the $ isn’t a problem. It’s finding someone here in Nashville that’s qualified and willing to tackle the re-fit. So far no luck. It if I can find a replacement sea ray display panel I can swap out myself.
Also consider taking it to a tv repair shop to see if they can replace the display…
I bought my replacement DDU from a Sea Ray dealer. But it was 8 years ago and was a part still installed on their new boats at the time.
 
Yea it is the pump housing not seating properly. I installed that O-Ring but then it kept dropping down into the bellows... NOT FUN! Turns out that being (!$!$#!#$!#) and rushing to get this job done, I used my drill to speed through getting the screws on and off and have stripped a few of them pretty good. I might end up having to just get a new top piece ..... can't anything be easy? LOL.

Likely your issue, the video instructions I watched were very specific about not using a drill/driver because they don't need to be that tight and can easily be stripped!
 
More questions about the head and the sensor that reads (empty / half full / full). Safe to say that the actual sensor is in the master tank itself? Easy to get out? I suspect I need to clean it... my waste tank is empty but reading 1/2 full.
 
More questions about the head and the sensor that reads (empty / half full / full). Safe to say that the actual sensor is in the master tank itself? Easy to get out? I suspect I need to clean it... my waste tank is empty but reading 1/2 full.
I was wondering which tank the gauge reads from? Why is there a senor in both tanks?
 
Fellow 460 owners,
I have been reviewing my data logs from the bilge temperature sensor that I have and wanted to ask you ---- what kind of blowers do you have in your bilge and are they cooling enough for you?

I'm asking because there were a few instances where I saw 90* temperature outside and the highest I saw was 116F in the bilge on that exceptionally hot/humid day. Is that good? I've read a bunch of articles that either say 20* delta T is good and others says 30* delta T is good. Either way, I wanted to hear from other 460 owners here on your thoughts and if you log your bilge temperature and if so, what are you seeing? Are you happy with the temps in the bilge? As you know, cooler temps means better performance and a lot less wear and tear on components.

Thoughts?
 
If you or anyone you know has a 2004'ish Sundancer 460 who needs or wants cockpit carpet, please reach out to me. I removed the Corinthiun carpet from my boat in favor of Hydrodock. I am in/near Annapolis area. If interested, reach out.
 
Has anyone had an issue plugging in at a marina with a new power pedestal and the boat blows the dockside GFI. I recently tried to plug in to a newer pedestal and as soon as I turn on either the AC Converter or the Port Systems the GFI at the pedestal trips. All other circuits are ok. At my marina with an older pedestal it's no issue. Please let me know if anyone else has had this issue and if so, what was the remedy?
 
Hi Everyone. I'm planning to replace my old Norcold fridge with the Vitrifigo 2600i. Before it gets here, I've ordered new tracks/truck rollers (top 25mm and bottom 23mm). I also have moving blankets for the companionway and down the steps where the new fridge will go. Anything else I need/should consider before tackling this job? is it easy to remove the old rollers and replace them? Any gotcha's I need to be aware of?
 
My sliding doors at the galley counter (where coffee maker was) are having a problem. I noticed that some of the plastic guides at the top of the door are missing. Anyone know where to source them from?
 
Hi Everyone. I'm planning to replace my old Norcold fridge with the Vitrifigo 2600i. Before it gets here, I've ordered new tracks/truck rollers (top 25mm and bottom 23mm). I also have moving blankets for the companionway and down the steps where the new fridge will go. Anything else I need/should consider before tackling this job? is it easy to remove the old rollers and replace them? Any gotcha's I need to be aware of?
I did the replacement 3 years ago. (Did you check Nova Kool? Same footprint, larger fridge.) It was a squeeze but do-able for two guys. Door lower track was fussy.
 
I did the replacement 3 years ago. (Did you check Nova Kool? Same footprint, larger fridge.) It was a squeeze but do-able for two guys. Door lower track was fussy.
Yes I looked at it and it was an option. I am in favor of the same type setup as the nor cold (freezer up top vs. bottom). Yes, I know NOVAKOOK has a little bit more space and also could not find stainless Nova KOOL. Oh well... the Vitrifigo should work better than the tired 20 year old NORCOLD.

How much fun was it to replace the roller cams on the sliding doors from a 1-10 scale?
 
Yes I looked at it and it was an option. I am in favor of the same type setup as the nor cold (freezer up top vs. bottom). Yes, I know NOVAKOOK has a little bit more space and also could not find stainless Nova KOOL. Oh well... the Vitrifigo should work better than the tired 20 year old NORCOLD.

How much fun was it to replace the roller cams on the sliding doors from a 1-10 scale?
Tim,
I actually did not replace the rollers because they were in good condition. We've owned this boat for 16 of its 21 years and I regularly lubricate the tracks, so they were in good shape. Also, because we are in the Great Lakes, there is half the amount of wear and tear on a boat because spends over half its life tucked into a warm storage building, so I guess we are lucky from a wear and maintenance point of view.

If I remember correctly there was a galley change between the 2002 and 2003 models. Ours still had the cabinet panels over the fridge doors which I flipped and modified for the Nova Kool. Yours has the exposed fridge without panels but laminate inserts instead on the actual fridge doors.

I cannot remember the trick I used for that last bottom roller to insert the door. The top was straightforward. Good luck, you have a wonderful boat that will always be a classic Sea Ray design.
 

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