420/44 DB Owners Club

Has anyone removed the hardwood floors in the galley and dinette? It’s time for a facelift and wondering if it’s glued down or screwed down.
 
Mark,
see post #5096, also, nuts for bolts for table support can be accessed in cubby shelf in port stateroom wall. I know someone on this thread was looking for floor take outs in the last year!
Steve
 
Thanks, after looking back I remember it now.
I am in the process of gluing up 3/4 inch teak and maple into two sheets. Cut to shape and install as one piece.
 
Guys, I’m back to looking. This maybe the wrong spot. I’ve found a 1994 44’ Dancer with CATS. I’d like some input on the boat. Problems and things to look for
 
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I'm looking to relocate my rear facing camera to the rear of the canopy on the bridge. Anyone have a camera mounted there? I'm looking for ideas as how they are routing the wires to the arch. Pic
camera mount.jpg
of where i'm looking to mount.
 
The lacing for the top is right there and there is space between the outer cover and the inner liner for the wire.

You could zip tie a starboard plate to the lacing and keep it pretty secure.

The radar arch is accessible too but would need a new hole between the inner and outer layers at the aft edge.
 
Irie308 said:
I'm looking to relocate my rear facing camera to the rear of the canopy on the bridge. Anyone have a camera mounted there? I'm looking for ideas as how they are routing the wires to the arch. PicView attachment 159006 of where i'm looking to mount.
Click to expand...

On my boat the air space between the top and liner runs to about 4 inches from the lip. There is an access plate to access the fasteners for the Sat TV dome about two feet forward. This is for a 52DB. I had to do some investigative work to determine where the wires for the camera and spreader lights could route.
IMG_7760.jpg
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
The lacing for the top is right there and there is space between the outer cover and the inner liner for the wire.

You could zip tie a starboard plate to the lacing and keep it pretty secure.

The radar arch is accessible too but would need a new hole between the inner and outer layers at the aft edge.
Click to expand...
Making a hole in the arch is my issue. The arch has a radius and I haven’t found a wire gland that would sit flush.
 
I have the ingredients in the Amazon cart along with some other stuff.

Our boat buddies who are also big RVers swear by Happy Camper. I think it is the same as NoFlex.

I looked up Happy Camper at Walmart... about $12 per pound. Looks like making it up ourselves is about 50 cents a pound. NoFlex is about $35 a pound.

All this for materials that are considered commodities.

Thanks for the link to Carters Poopy Powder!
 
I just closed on my new 44DB WISHBONE III can't wait to get her on the sound .Look forward to communicating with all of you on our progress.
Capt. G.
 
Greg Peck said:
I just closed on my new 44DB WISHBONE III can't wait to get her on the sound .Look forward to communicating with all of you on our progress.
Capt. G.
Click to expand...
Welcome! Which Sound are you on?
 
Western Long Island Sound
 
Congrats! Where do you plan to slip her? We were on the Housatonic River but since moved to Mystic as we are much closer to so many great destinations.
 
I mounted the Seablaze X2 lights this weekend. Any recommendations on wiring them up; wire gauge, switch type, maybe a terminal block to join the light wires together? I’m thinking to put the switch next to the Gen fuel valves and a breaker off the DC EL panel in the salon.

1708916097662.jpeg
 
Has anyone ever had a problem with the splice from the anchor chain to the rode getting stuck in the gypsy?

Edit: To try and clarify a little...the splice gets jambed in the hole going into the chain locker and then the chain gets all bunched up and I have to remove the "finger" with Allen wrenches. It is a pain trying to re-assemble. One of the suggestions on my search was to hook the chain with the snubber, pull up some slack by hand, and feed the splice through and re-engage the chain. Far easier than disassembling the finger with the spring in it.

The other method to get the splice through without jambing and wadding up the chain is to grab the rode through the opened chain locker hatch, hold the end with your right hand and step on the rode to force it by pulling it though the hole.

I am wondering if the splice is too fat. It happened twice and I had to remove the spring loaded flapper to get the knot through.

Cheers!
 
saopm said:
I mounted the Seablaze X2 lights this weekend. Any recommendations on wiring them up; wire gauge, switch type, maybe a terminal block to join the light wires together? I’m thinking to put the switch next to the Gen fuel valves and a breaker off the DC EL panel in the salon.

View attachment 159608
Click to expand...
I think the manual does specify wire gauge. I went with the poco and also wired to 24 volt system so amp draw was much less.

PS curious why you removed the platform.
 
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