420/44 DB Owners Club

ttmott said:
Aren't those the spare seal carriers?
Click to expand...
hmm…could be. They looked like shaft collars. Guess I’d have figured that out the hard way if a shaft breaks. :)
 
saopm said:
You might be able to reach the underside by taking the backrest off the couch. It is held on by Velcro at the bottom of the backrest. Ones the Velcro is released, lift up and the backrest will come off.
Click to expand...
Yep. Unless there is some structure in between, should be able to reach it from behind the couch.
 
Air horn idea. Like many things on the boat, it appears they built the boat around the air horn compressor. So I was thinking, why not just install a new compressor on the bridge. There is a hefty 12V buss bar there. Horns work, but compressor never shuts off.

Option 2. Ditch the air horns and switch to electric.
 
ttmott said:
Aren't those the spare seal carriers?
Click to expand...
does anyone know how to activate the spare seal? I have a slight drip from the main seal ...
 
ttmott said:
Click to expand...
Thank you ! Although they don’t give you much room to manoeuvre..

IMG_0562.jpeg
 
AEO said:
Thank you !
Click to expand...
One thing I found out though. If the dripless seal assembly is old and has a lot of use especially if the shaft has some wobble or the seal bellows isn't aligned correctly, or cooling water was lost at one time, the bearing (which is made from Delrin) that keeps the lip seal centered wears out and now not keeping the seal centered on the shaft.
So, grab that assembly and see how much it moves perpendicular to the shaft. If you are getting any detectable movement then changing the seal will be for not, it'll leak again. Here is a pic looking at that bearing (white) -
IMG_5472 tides bearing.jpg
 
AEO said:
Thank you !
Click to expand...
ttmott said:
One thing I found out though. If the dripless seal assembly is old and has a lot of use especially if the shaft has some wobble or the seal bellows isn't aligned correctly, or cooling water was lost at one time, the bearing (which is made from Delrin) that keeps the lip seal centered wears out and now not keeping the seal centered on the shaft.
So, grab that assembly and see how much it moves perpendicular to the shaft. If you are getting any detectable movement then changing the seal will be for not, it'll leak again. Here is a pic looking at that bearing (white) -
View attachment 151134
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up. I’m thinking I might wait til she’s out of the water for this job …
 
AEO said:
Thanks for the heads up. I’m thinking I might wait til she’s out of the water for this job …
Click to expand...
I would. As in the video enough water doesn't come in to overpower the bilge pumps however I did a fare deal of fumbling to get the seal back in when I changed mine a few season's ago. I did it on the hard and I thought I would have sunk the boat based on how long it took me to replace. That being said I think I can do one in the water now but there is a huge learning curve the first time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
Irie308 said:
I would. As in the video enough water doesn't come in to overpower the bilge pumps however I did a fare deal of fumbling to get the seal back in when I changed mine a few season's ago. I did it on the hard and I thought I would have sunk the boat based on how long it took me to replace. That being said I think I can do one in the water now but there is a huge learning curve the first time.
Click to expand...
My thoughts exactly. Having the confidence is everything..
 
ttmott said:
Aren't those the spare seal carriers?
Click to expand...
Yes, my spare seal carrier was positioned forward of the dripless hose but was forced off the shaft after the shaft broke. The shaft remained about 9-10"" aft of the break point being held by the prop against the rudder. I could not access the shaft tube through hull area as dripless bellows was fastened to the tube. The standard wooden plugs that are available for plugging this type of situation are not long enough due to the dripless bellow. In retrospect, I would need to remove and or cut the bellows to access the through hull tube opening. In the heat of battle, with a 2 " diameter stream of water rushing in, I only had the presence of mind to stuff the bellows with a rag and force it down the tube to the shaft. This slowed the leak enough to allow the bilge pumps to catch up. I should have my new shafts tomorrow and should know more about how this happened.
 
JNMNL52 said:
Yes, my spare seal carrier was positioned forward of the dripless hose but was forced off the shaft after the shaft broke. The shaft remained about 9-10"" aft of the break point being held by the prop against the rudder. I could not access the shaft tube through hull area as dripless bellows was fastened to the tube. The standard wooden plugs that are available for plugging this type of situation are not long enough due to the dripless bellow. In retrospect, I would need to remove and or cut the bellows to access the through hull tube opening. In the heat of battle, with a 2 " diameter stream of water rushing in, I only had the presence of mind to stuff the bellows with a rag and force it down the tube to the shaft. This slowed the leak enough to allow the bilge pumps to catch up. I should have my new shafts tomorrow and should know more about how this happened.
Click to expand...
Have a friend who had similar occurrence where he needed to fill a breach in the hull. He took off his shirt and stuffed it in the hole. I guess at the end of the day its whatever gets the job done.
 
AEO said:
Thank you ! Although they don’t give you much room to manoeuvre..

View attachment 151133
Click to expand...
it's interesting to see the different amounts of exposed shaft beyond the dripless seal. Looks like you have about an inch and half? I'd wag a guess at mine being about six inches or a little more.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
boaterholic said:
it's interesting to see the different amounts of exposed shaft beyond the dripless seal. Looks like you have about an inch and half? I'd wag a guess at mine being about six inches or a little more.
Click to expand...
Your right. I’m assuming it’s a Diamond vs QSC thing. As in life a few extra inches would’ve been nice … ;)
 
NorCalRobert said:
Here’s a few pics of my GPH etc after I had the props done and changed from a medium to a light cup to run in the range on the chart below.
Seaboard Marine is an excellent resource for info on our motors and proper propping
[/URL]
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting the results. I looked at the prop info the PO passed along to me and the cupping is listed as " 6 -.089 " . So I am trying to figure out how to translate that into medium vs light cupping. My fuel burn is 15 to 20 percent higher than yours. We are pretty loaded up for cruising up into Canada and the dingy and Presto lift on the back...but I do not know if the weight makes any difference.

If you know how to convert my numbers into light vs medium, I would appreciate some clarity!
 
Has anyone had low water pressure issues from the anchor well tap? Mine has gone low pressure for some unknown reason. The only thing I have done to the water system of late was replace the fresh water pump. But is was like for like plug and play although for another strange reason I had cavitation issues and had to install an accumulator..
 
Mark.60 said:
When you changed the cup did it affect your wide open RPM or are you still at the 2680 range
Click to expand...
Before changing from the factory medium cupping to a light cupping I could only get 2640-2650 which was below the recommended max for our motors
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
Thanks for posting the results. I looked at the prop info the PO passed along to me and the cupping is listed as " 6 -.089 " . So I am trying to figure out how to translate that into medium vs light cupping. My fuel burn is 15 to 20 percent higher than yours. We are pretty loaded up for cruising up into Canada and the dingy and Presto lift on the back...but I do not know if the weight makes any difference.

If you know how to convert my numbers into light vs medium, I would appreciate some clarity!
Click to expand...
I usually run a bit heavy as well since I prefer to keep fuel and water full or near full and I carry extra fresh water plus I have a hydraulic swim platform with a Zodiac Yachtline dinghy with 40hp motor weighing in at 700lbs
I have tested it both with and without the dinghy and the fuel burn is slightly affected but what I notice the most is it works a bit more to get up out of the water but still cruises at 23-25
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,186
Messages
1,428,174
Members
61,097
Latest member
Mdeluca407
Back
Top