saopm
Active Member
You might be able to reach the underside by taking the backrest off the couch. It is held on by Velcro at the bottom of the backrest. Ones the Velcro is released, lift up and the backrest will come off.
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You might be able to reach the underside by taking the backrest off the couch. It is held on by Velcro at the bottom of the backrest. Ones the Velcro is released, lift up and the backrest will come off.
hmm…could be. They looked like shaft collars. Guess I’d have figured that out the hard way if a shaft breaks.Aren't those the spare seal carriers?
Yep. Unless there is some structure in between, should be able to reach it from behind the couch.You might be able to reach the underside by taking the backrest off the couch. It is held on by Velcro at the bottom of the backrest. Ones the Velcro is released, lift up and the backrest will come off.
does anyone know how to activate the spare seal? I have a slight drip from the main seal ...Aren't those the spare seal carriers?
does anyone know how to activate the spare seal? I have a slight drip from the main seal ...
One thing I found out though. If the dripless seal assembly is old and has a lot of use especially if the shaft has some wobble or the seal bellows isn't aligned correctly, or cooling water was lost at one time, the bearing (which is made from Delrin) that keeps the lip seal centered wears out and now not keeping the seal centered on the shaft.Thank you !
Thank you !
Thanks for the heads up. I’m thinking I might wait til she’s out of the water for this job …One thing I found out though. If the dripless seal assembly is old and has a lot of use especially if the shaft has some wobble or the seal bellows isn't aligned correctly, or cooling water was lost at one time, the bearing (which is made from Delrin) that keeps the lip seal centered wears out and now not keeping the seal centered on the shaft.
So, grab that assembly and see how much it moves perpendicular to the shaft. If you are getting any detectable movement then changing the seal will be for not, it'll leak again. Here is a pic looking at that bearing (white) -
View attachment 151134
I would. As in the video enough water doesn't come in to overpower the bilge pumps however I did a fare deal of fumbling to get the seal back in when I changed mine a few season's ago. I did it on the hard and I thought I would have sunk the boat based on how long it took me to replace. That being said I think I can do one in the water now but there is a huge learning curve the first time.Thanks for the heads up. I’m thinking I might wait til she’s out of the water for this job …
My thoughts exactly. Having the confidence is everything..I would. As in the video enough water doesn't come in to overpower the bilge pumps however I did a fare deal of fumbling to get the seal back in when I changed mine a few season's ago. I did it on the hard and I thought I would have sunk the boat based on how long it took me to replace. That being said I think I can do one in the water now but there is a huge learning curve the first time.
Yes, my spare seal carrier was positioned forward of the dripless hose but was forced off the shaft after the shaft broke. The shaft remained about 9-10"" aft of the break point being held by the prop against the rudder. I could not access the shaft tube through hull area as dripless bellows was fastened to the tube. The standard wooden plugs that are available for plugging this type of situation are not long enough due to the dripless bellow. In retrospect, I would need to remove and or cut the bellows to access the through hull tube opening. In the heat of battle, with a 2 " diameter stream of water rushing in, I only had the presence of mind to stuff the bellows with a rag and force it down the tube to the shaft. This slowed the leak enough to allow the bilge pumps to catch up. I should have my new shafts tomorrow and should know more about how this happened.Aren't those the spare seal carriers?
Have a friend who had similar occurrence where he needed to fill a breach in the hull. He took off his shirt and stuffed it in the hole. I guess at the end of the day its whatever gets the job done.Yes, my spare seal carrier was positioned forward of the dripless hose but was forced off the shaft after the shaft broke. The shaft remained about 9-10"" aft of the break point being held by the prop against the rudder. I could not access the shaft tube through hull area as dripless bellows was fastened to the tube. The standard wooden plugs that are available for plugging this type of situation are not long enough due to the dripless bellow. In retrospect, I would need to remove and or cut the bellows to access the through hull tube opening. In the heat of battle, with a 2 " diameter stream of water rushing in, I only had the presence of mind to stuff the bellows with a rag and force it down the tube to the shaft. This slowed the leak enough to allow the bilge pumps to catch up. I should have my new shafts tomorrow and should know more about how this happened.
it's interesting to see the different amounts of exposed shaft beyond the dripless seal. Looks like you have about an inch and half? I'd wag a guess at mine being about six inches or a little more.
Your right. I’m assuming it’s a Diamond vs QSC thing. As in life a few extra inches would’ve been nice …it's interesting to see the different amounts of exposed shaft beyond the dripless seal. Looks like you have about an inch and half? I'd wag a guess at mine being about six inches or a little more.
Thanks for posting the results. I looked at the prop info the PO passed along to me and the cupping is listed as " 6 -.089 " . So I am trying to figure out how to translate that into medium vs light cupping. My fuel burn is 15 to 20 percent higher than yours. We are pretty loaded up for cruising up into Canada and the dingy and Presto lift on the back...but I do not know if the weight makes any difference.Here’s a few pics of my GPH etc after I had the props done and changed from a medium to a light cup to run in the range on the chart below.
Seaboard Marine is an excellent resource for info on our motors and proper propping
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When you changed the cup did it affect your wide open RPM or are you still at the 2680 rangeHere’s a few pics of my GPH etc after I had the props done and changed from a medium to a light cup to run in the range on the chart below.
Seaboard Marine is an excellent resource for info on our motors and proper propping
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Before changing from the factory medium cupping to a light cupping I could only get 2640-2650 which was below the recommended max for our motorsWhen you changed the cup did it affect your wide open RPM or are you still at the 2680 range
I usually run a bit heavy as well since I prefer to keep fuel and water full or near full and I carry extra fresh water plus I have a hydraulic swim platform with a Zodiac Yachtline dinghy with 40hp motor weighing in at 700lbsThanks for posting the results. I looked at the prop info the PO passed along to me and the cupping is listed as " 6 -.089 " . So I am trying to figure out how to translate that into medium vs light cupping. My fuel burn is 15 to 20 percent higher than yours. We are pretty loaded up for cruising up into Canada and the dingy and Presto lift on the back...but I do not know if the weight makes any difference.
If you know how to convert my numbers into light vs medium, I would appreciate some clarity!