420/44 DB Owners Club

There have been reports of shoaling at Sandy Point this winter/spring. It's always a dicey passage going in there but now even worse. I've heard they may be dredging that corner to address. I hope so. There is a lot of traffic through there and they need to do something.
Was told by dockmate that Seatow or someone one similar was there on memorial day weekend directing boaters to go closer to the beach right at Sandy point. I went through this past weekend at around low tide and had to hug the beach. had about 2 1/2 feet under me which I did see last year in the channel at that point but I was definitely closer to shore this time around.
 
Has anyone ever dealt with painting or refinishing/touching up the engine room and bilge areas? I was once told that gelcoat was used but then someone else mentioned epoxy. I'm not sure how either would work with the wood surfaces but the color is the same as the engine room floor/bilge area. I'd love the take a chip, get it matched, and purchase a gallon or so to spruce things up. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I did mine using bilgekote white. I thought I did a decent prep-work, but the lowest spots that see some water from time to time, got the paint flaking off. So, I'm not happy with its longevity and hope to find something better. The dry area holds up ok for few years. Then, when I was detailing the engines and put some water pressure on the paint, it came off in some spots that never see water.

I did purchased a different product (can't recall the name at the moment). Haven't tried it yet, so I can't comment on it.
 
The bilges were done in gelcoat from the factory which is available to match from Spectrum. No mater what you use the prep work is important. The original gelcoat, or bare fiberglass, if the gelcoat is gone, must be sanded. It is no different than if you were going to paint or gelcoat the exterior. I have done several bilge areas with a DA sander and 80 grit, some that had been painted before with poor results. After clean up just roll or brush the gelcoat on and it will look like new.
If you put paint or gelcoat over any non sanded spots it will peal eventually.
 
The bilges were done in gelcoat from the factory which is available to match from Spectrum. No mater what you use the prep work is important. The original gelcoat, or bare fiberglass, if the gelcoat is gone, must be sanded. It is no different than if you were going to paint or gelcoat the exterior. I have done several bilge areas with a DA sander and 80 grit, some that had been painted before with poor results. After clean up just roll or brush the gelcoat on and it will look like new.
If you put paint or gelcoat over any non sanded spots it will peal eventually.


Thanks for the info. To be clear, the gelcoat was also used on the areas of plywood?

Update:

I just checked Spectrum's website, entered year of boat and color. Three options came up but only one which included Bilge. This appears to be it.

1437A SEA RAY BILGE OYSTER 05-19
SKU: 1437A-G
$266.00

https://spectrumcolor.com/pages/product-result?rq=mk_sea-ray~md_beige~yr_2005


Update:

Called Spectrum to order. Online prices are wholesale so a gallon at retail would be $443.00. That's crazy! Maybe I will purchase the 2oz. patch kit and get it matched locally. Also, this was not used on the plywood.
 
Thanks for the info. To be clear, the gelcoat was also used on the areas of plywood?

Update:

I just checked Spectrum's website, entered year of boat and color. Three options came up but only one which included Bilge. This appears to be it.

1437A SEA RAY BILGE OYSTER 05-19
SKU: 1437A-G
$266.00

https://spectrumcolor.com/pages/product-result?rq=mk_sea-ray~md_beige~yr_2005

Going to order a quart to start and will post the outcome. Thanks.
Keep us posted. Willing to split the cost of a quart with you if you don't need that much....lol. I have just a few spots to touch up. Nothing crazy.
 
Keep us posted. Willing to split the cost of a quart with you if you don't need that much....lol. I have just a few spots to touch up. Nothing crazy.

Will do. If it does the trick, I'm going to do the center line of the bilge and all plywood which it what has chipped the most.
 
I've been considering this Norcold NR751 upgrade from my current NR740SS which is only 1.7 cubic feet, and wondered if I could squeeze it in. Looks like it was not a problem. What did you use to make the cut? Reciprocating or jigsaw? Material is pretty thick in that area. Did you mount using holes in flange or use the interior ones located within the cabinet liner? Thanks for sharing.

(BTW - I had to use a piece of Starboard on bottom to cover the gap and it worked well.)

I used my cordless recip Milwaukee Hackzall as it has an orbital cycle on the blade. I had minimal chipout on the gel coat on the finished side. It cuts like butter...but, dust and sawdust go everywhere. The flange on the fridge hide any chips.

I used the interior screw holes and they are nicely hidden and the outer flange is clean.

The floor is not perpendicular to the wall that the stair handrail and the fridge are mounted to so I have to cut the top part of the opening a little more to lift it up so it is flush. I have quite a gap at the bottom but someone in a FB Group here had fridge panels for free. I gave her a bottle of wine as it was perfect. I still have to cut the trip and get it installed after I do the last trim on the top.

It holds a lot more....I hope it slows the "leakage" as has been shared on here...hehe!
 
I used my cordless recip Milwaukee Hackzall as it has an orbital cycle on the blade. I had minimal chipout on the gel coat on the finished side. It cuts like butter...but, dust and sawdust go everywhere. The flange on the fridge hide any chips.

I used the interior screw holes and they are nicely hidden and the outer flange is clean.

The floor is not perpendicular to the wall that the stair handrail and the fridge are mounted to so I have to cut the top part of the opening a little more to lift it up so it is flush. I have quite a gap at the bottom but someone in a FB Group here had fridge panels for free. I gave her a bottle of wine as it was perfect. I still have to cut the trip and get it installed after I do the last trim on the top.

It holds a lot more....I hope it slows the "leakage" as has been shared on here...hehe!


Thanks for the info. I'm going to grab one this weekend and have at. I figured it would be a mess to cut. I was planning on using a reciprocating saw with fine blades to keep mess to a min. For the bottom I think I'd use 1/4" starboard. I did same when I installed NR740SS and it provide a nice finished look. Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the info. To be clear, the gelcoat was also used on the areas of plywood?

Update:

I just checked Spectrum's website, entered year of boat and color. Three options came up but only one which included Bilge. This appears to be it.

1437A SEA RAY BILGE OYSTER 05-19
SKU: 1437A-G
$266.00

https://spectrumcolor.com/pages/product-result?rq=mk_sea-ray~md_beige~yr_2005


Update:

Called Spectrum to order. Online prices are wholesale so a gallon at retail would be $443.00. That's crazy! Maybe I will purchase the 2oz. patch kit and get it matched locally. Also, this was not used on the plywood.

The plywood is gelcoat too. The last time I ordered from Spectrum they sent me to IBOAT to buy retail and could buy a quart. You can try Mini- Craft too and see if they have the color. I have been using them more lately as they are easier to buy from in quarts.
 
I used the Gelcoat below to repair my radar pad this past winter. I wasn’t concerned with a perfect match since it would be covered by the radar mount. However, I was able to get a perfect match. It was very easy to mix as well. I would definitely use this product to touch up the bilge. I’ll see if I can find the YouTube video for mixing.

Marine Coat One Iso/Npg Marine Gel Coat White with Wax with MEKP Catalyst for Hardening, Plus 6 Color Tinting Pigments for Your Perfect White Match (1 Quart) https://a.co/d/gh1d7Vb
 
I used the Gelcoat below to repair my radar pad this past winter. I wasn’t concerned with a perfect match since it would be covered by the radar mount. However, I was able to get a perfect match. It was very easy to mix as well. I would definitely use this product to touch up the bilge. I’ll see if I can find the YouTube video for mixing.

Marine Coat One Iso/Npg Marine Gel Coat White with Wax with MEKP Catalyst for Hardening, Plus 6 Color Tinting Pigments for Your Perfect White Match (1 Quart) https://a.co/d/gh1d7Vb

YouTube link for color matching
 
I painted my bilge with
Rust-oleum marine topside tinted to match.
50/50 west system resin.
Second year looks great and can clean with paper towel.
I’ll have my granddaughter post pics when I see her
 
Guys i got a 1994 sundancer 440 with twin cats 3116 350hp. At 2400rpm i get around 13 knots and the boat doesnt seem to get on plane. after putting the tabs all the way down sometimes it gets up to 15knots at 2400rpm. Is this normal with my configuration ? Water tank is usually full . 5 people on board and 1/3 full on the tanks
 
Guys i got a 1994 sundancer 440 with twin cats 3116 350hp. At 2400rpm i get around 13 knots and the boat doesnt seem to get on plane. after putting the tabs all the way down sometimes it gets up to 15knots at 2400rpm. Is this normal with my configuration ? Water tank is usually full . 5 people on board and 1/3 full on the tanks
Is the bottom clean?
 
Is the bottom clean?
I’m still struggling to get mine right - Spent a small fortune. I made my tabs slightly larger and now Bennett are telling me I need a third ram on each side… But you may get a better response from a Sundancer thread. Our 420/44 DB’s are a different animal …
 
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yes bottom and props are clean
Sir I have no idea what ur full throttle rpm should be on those CATs since they r not offered on a 44 DB. So performance wise no clue here.
 
I’m still struggling to get mine right - Spent a small fortune. I made my tabs slightly larger and now Bennett are telling me I need a third ram on each side …

Problem getting on plane or overall performance issue?
 
Problem getting on plane or overall performance issue?
I’ve always been a little nose high and tend to run out of tab.
 

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