420/44 DB Owners Club

[AEO]

My sliding door latch is busted. What can I do?
Can I replace it? Grand kids didn’t get it latched.

I’ve always dreaded that one .. Watching

 

[RBB]

It’s looking like a PIA issue!

 

[AEO]

It’s looking like a PIA issue!

I’m still trying to figure out how to remove my sliding flyscreen door …..

 

[AEO]

It’s looking like a PIA issue!

Found this..

https://fpmarine.com/search-results-page?q=1816121

Not cheap though

 

[RBB]

Thank u sir. Currently I am in Cincinnati with my grandson on a boat excursion and do not have a tape measure. If anyone on board could
Measure the door thickness for me I would appreciate it. Want to get it ordered.

 

[RBB]

I’m still trying to figure out how to remove my sliding flyscreen door …..

Mine has adjust screws on the top of screen door. I would think loosen them lift door a little
And bottom of door out.

 

[AEO]

Mine has adjust screws on the top of screen door. I would think loosen them lift door a little
And bottom of door out.

I looked at that but the lower edge of the door won’t clear the track..

It’s almost like they started with the screen door and then built the boat around it

 

[RBB]

Thinking all I need is the latch that’s in the door frame, only $60

 

[bajturner]

I’m still trying to figure out how to remove my sliding flyscreen door …..

I removed the interior sill at the bottom of the door. There are screws that go straight down into the fiberglass. An oscillating tool cut them off easily. The sill is shaped like an L. To resecure it you can use some 5200 to attach some blocks inside under the chrome sill portion and use longer screws that go through the sill and into the starboard. Maybe a diagram would help...I'll draw something.

With the sill removed, the door can be removed to the inside with a bit of finessing. The old door was a bit damaged from several mishaps so I had a new door made that was about a 1/4" shorter. Makes it easier to remove. Seems like the screen is damaged about once a year!!

 

[bajturner]

I removed the interior sill at the bottom of the door. There are screws that go straight down into the fiberglass. An oscillating tool cut them off easily. The sill is shaped like an L. To resecure it you can use some 5200 to attach some blocks inside under the chrome sill portion and use longer screws that go through the sill and into the starboard. Maybe a diagram would help...I'll draw something.

With the sill removed, the door can be removed to the inside with a bit of finessing. The old door was a bit damaged from several mishaps so I had a new door made that was about a 1/4" shorter. Makes it easier to remove. Seems like the screen is damaged about once a year!!

 

[becnme]

I removed my screen door several times by pulling the glass doors first. Easy job if you remove the stop for the stationary door and move the door to the center of the track.

 

[AEO]

I removed the interior sill at the bottom of the door. There are screws that go straight down into the fiberglass. An oscillating tool cut them off easily. The sill is shaped like an L. To resecure it you can use some 5200 to attach some blocks inside under the chrome sill portion and use longer screws that go through the sill and into the starboard. Maybe a diagram would help...I'll draw something.

With the sill removed, the door can be removed to the inside with a bit of finessing. The old door was a bit damaged from several mishaps so I had a new door made that was about a 1/4" shorter. Makes it easier to remove. Seems like the screen is damaged about once a year!!

Thanks. I’ll look at that. Was hoping to remove it without having to modify anything. Guess it’s not that simple

 

[AEO]

I removed my screen door several times by pulling the glass doors first. Easy job if you remove the stop for the stationary door and move the door to the center of the track.

Thanks, it does sound straight forward.. ish. I’ll give that a try first and if no joy go for baj’s fix.

 

[AEO]

View attachment 145790

Great job with the drawing. Thanks

 

[Mark.60]

I removed my screen door several times by pulling the glass doors first. Easy job if you remove the stop for the stationary door and move the door to the center of the track.

I also did it that way.

 

[Mark.60]

Where did all the water go?
Memorial Day weekend I went to Watch Hill Ri. Going around Sandy Point I had 3 ft under the boat.
Saturday entering Hamburg Cove on the Ct. river in center of channel I was in the mud. Lucky it was mud

 

[bajturner]

I also did it that way.

I did it that way the first time. I found those doors to be a bear to handle...heavy and no good place to place them once removed. Was tough to do alone.

Maybe my technique was bad!

 

[Tenacious]

About 3 weeks ago, the cockpit beverage fridge was discovered to be inop. I had an internal debate whether to repair or replace. I had a swag at the cost to repair of about $600. The fridge was not that old according to the previous owner. It was an Isotherm and about 1.5 cu ft. Miniscule in my opinion. And since these cockpit fridges are very prone to contents leakage, I was thinking of a larger fridge. I keep having to reload it....

Sure Marine Services in Seattle has a web page with all the sizes and capacities in basically a spreadsheet. Nice to use to see what fits.

I mentioned the dilemma to the Admiral and she thought bigger was better as it would open up space in the galley fridge.

So I got a NorCold NR751BB that is 2.7 cu ft so quite an increase.



View attachment 144867

It fits barely between the stair rail and the curve on the face of the fiberglass corner. I still need a trim strip at the bottom. I think it is an optional item.

Here is the hole:

View attachment 144868

The new fridge projects about 20 1/2 inches and clears that big wire bundle....barely. I am thinking about pulling it back out and putting a chafe guard on the edge of the fridge where the wires are. It is not sharp but I think I would feel better.

I cut about 1 1/4 inches on the sides and about 3/8 on the top to make the hole large enough. Interestingly, the face of the fiberglass is not perpendicular to the floor of the cockpit. It has a slight taper...likely to be able to get the section out of the mold.

Cheers!

I've been considering this Norcold NR751 upgrade from my current NR740SS which is only 1.7 cubic feet, and wondered if I could squeeze it in. Looks like it was not a problem. What did you use to make the cut? Reciprocating or jigsaw? Material is pretty thick in that area. Did you mount using holes in flange or use the interior ones located within the cabinet liner? Thanks for sharing.

(BTW - I had to use a piece of Starboard on bottom to cover the gap and it worked well.)

 

[Tenacious]

Where did all the water go?
Memorial Day weekend I went to Watch Hill Ri. Going around Sandy Point I had 3 ft under the boat.
Saturday entering Hamburg Cove on the Ct. river in center of channel I was in the mud. Lucky it was mud

There have been reports of shoaling at Sandy Point this winter/spring. It's always a dicey passage going in there but now even worse. I've heard they may be dredging that corner to address. I hope so. There is a lot of traffic through there and they need to do something.

 

[Tenacious]

Has anyone ever dealt with painting or refinishing/touching up the engine room and bilge areas? I was once told that gelcoat was used but then someone else mentioned epoxy. I'm not sure how either would work with the wood surfaces but the color is the same as the engine room floor/bilge area. I'd love the take a chip, get it matched, and purchase a gallon or so to spruce things up. Any thoughts? Thanks.