420/44 DB Owners Club

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I used a clear non insulated vinyl tubing. Four lengths non longer than 6 feet just for the bridge windshield vents attached to 24000 BTU AC. Thinking though of using the same in some of the cabin units down the road.
The sharp turns in the ducting is one of the things that increases static resistance, if you can make turns with a KD adjustable 90 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-4-in-90-Deg-Round-Adjustable-Elbow-B90E4/100033952
 
Roger that, I’m not too worried about the Helm AC but when I start addressing the cabin systems I’ll employ the metal elbows. Of course since I was thinking of the system I figured I’d start the genny and run the bridge and aft deck systems for exercise and the forward one threw HHH code. I guess it is time to break out the flush kit and Barnacle buster. Never nothing to do on the boat
 
I have a question for follks that know about wiring in solar panels. I want to at this point us a flexible and portable 4 panel 300 Watt system. I want to use them in different places in the bridge.

Can I use the cigarette lighter plug or wire directly into the 12V feed under the dash? There is a big cable that delivers power under the dash. My normal inclination would be to run wires down to the batteries. Does it matter if I use the feed that is already there?

On the380DA I ran the solar wires through the radar arch to a cabinet where I mounted the controller and then 4 feet of 12 gauge wire to the batteries. This boat is a bit more difficult to run wires and they are long runs. The gauge is going to be big. I have to do the calculation...

Thanks!

Edit: I just looked up the wire size for the allowable voltage drop on the run to the batteries from the dash. I would need 10 or even 8 gauge wire.
I added solar, with flexible panels on the aft top (340w). Cables were not that difficult to run to the ER where I mounted my solar controller and it was 10awg that I ran. I wouldn't hook up a 300w system directly to the batteries without a charge controller to manage the battery charge state. Hence, personally, I'd wouldn't try to charge the batteries thru the 12v outlet.
 
I removed the vent and installed a air damper to restrict airflow out this vent which will then push more air into bedroom number 2.
I am currently searching for an adjustable air register in the size of the vent by the dinette so I can control the airflow easier than trying to get to a damper that is hidden.

My quick hack for this is I took the register mount screws out and I stuff a small towel down the duct to block it!
 
I added solar, with flexible panels on the aft top (340w). Cables were not that difficult to run to the ER where I mounted my solar controller and it was 10awg that I ran. I wouldn't hook up a 300w system directly to the batteries without a charge controller to manage the battery charge state. Hence, personally, I'd wouldn't try to charge the batteries thru the 12v outlet.

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the reply. I will have a controller...not having a controller invites trouble. I don't know anyone who would attempt that.

My current plan is to wire in a receptacle to the 2 aught wires at the helm with a fuse in line. The receptacle is a Marinco trolling motor 12V plug/ receptacle. It is rated at 70 Amps.

I think I read your install of the flexible panels on the canvas. I did that on the old 380 DA and it worked very well. I may mount the panels up top at some point.

Cheers!
 
Hi Tom,

Thanks for the reply. I will have a controller...not having a controller invites trouble. I don't know anyone who would attempt that.

My current plan is to wire in a receptacle to the 2 aught wires at the helm with a fuse in line. The receptacle is a Marinco trolling motor 12V plug/ receptacle. It is rated at 70 Amps.

I think I read your install of the flexible panels on the canvas. I did that on the old 380 DA and it worked very well. I may mount the panels up top at some point.

Cheers!
Sorry ... I misunderstood. When you said receptacle, I was as thinking of the 12v cigarette receptacle ...
 
Hello everyone. I’ve searched but could not find anything specific to the interior carpet for the salon. (Foamed backed carpet.). Does anyone know the manufacturer and color by chance? Looking to source replacement. Thanks.
 
Hello everyone. I’ve searched but could not find anything specific to the interior carpet for the salon. (Foamed backed carpet.). Does anyone know the manufacturer and color by chance? Looking to source replacement. Thanks.
I just had mine replaced and we went with Karastan house carpet and the marine upholstery shop sewed some rubber backed outdoor deck carpet to the backside.
 
I just had mine replaced and we went with Karastan house carpet and the marine upholstery shop sewed some rubber backed outdoor deck carpet to the backside.

Thanks. I may have to do something like that. I identified Syntech Industries as the manufacturer of the carpet sourced by Sea Ray when the boat was constructed. Called them this morning and was told I must go through local dealer - Land N' Sea. Called Land N' Sea and they told me I need to go through dealer with an account. Ugh!!! I have a couple friends who have accounts and will check this weekend. All I need is the interior salon carpet. All else is in great condition. I screwed up by placing a couple small carpets on top of it over the winter and the black backing seemingly blead through making the beige carpet yellow in the area it was placed. I've had this happen in the cockpit before and it always came out using a product from ChemDry - but not with the interior. At this point barely noticeable but with my OCD, I can't have it. It's the first thing I see when walking into the salon. Hopefully there are others who may have replaced the interior carpet and have a source I could use which is close to OEM. According to the original Sea-Ray brochure the carpet is a Deep-Pile BCF - 44-ounce. I found the actual part numbers on page 55 of the Sea Ray Parts Manual for the 2005 420 DB and there are a couple options including a color name "Wheaton," or "Snow," 44 oz. Mine is definitely Wheaton.

Great lakes Skipper has something that looks like it called Sand, so I am having them overnight sample. I used Sand with the snap-in carpet replacements from "Snap-In" in the past both on the bridge and cockpit. I am hoping it's darker than the one I have otherwise I may be SOL.

BTW, I called Sea-Ray customer support (865-971-6250, and they identified Syntec's part number for the item for my HIN as IM44/9191, in case anyone has the means to cross reference.

Thanks.
 
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We went to a local carpet store and found a small remnant piece that fit our space. Close match to existing carpet but a bit nicer in my opinion. Had it cut to shape and bounded. The also cut a backing pad that is about 3 inches smaller than the carpet at the border which we lay underneath the carpet. Best $150 we've spent on the boat. Fourth season with it now and it still looks great. When it comes time won't think twice to toss and replace with similar.
 
We went to a local carpet store and found a small remnant piece that fit our space. Close match to existing carpet but a bit nicer in my opinion. Had it cut to shape and bounded. The also cut a backing pad that is about 3 inches smaller than the carpet at the border which we lay underneath the carpet. Best $150 we've spent on the boat. Fourth season with it now and it still looks great. When it comes time won't think twice to toss and replace with similar.
We did the same and consider it almost like a consumable item. Once it wears out we'll just replace it. We try to be fairly careful keeping it clean but it is in a high traffic area where there's often wet feet, people with drinks and food, etc. We're on season 5 with it and it still pretty much looks (and smells) like new.
 
I have the original carpet for the aft deck and bridge on mine, and its still wrapped in plastic from sea ray. Brand New. I learned my lesson putting sea deck in our last boat. It was a 390MY. Pain in a$% to clean. We prefer fiber glass and wash it out. Quick dry all so with a battery powered blower.
 
I have the original carpet for the aft deck and bridge on mine, and its still wrapped in plastic from sea ray. Brand New. I learned my lesson putting sea deck in our last boat. It was a 390MY. Pain in a$% to clean. We prefer fiber glass and wash it out. Quick dry all so with a battery powered blower.

Interested in selling? Had to ask. If so, please message me. Thanks.
 
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Does anyone know if there is a Smartcraft junction box with open ports in the helm on the 44 DB?

I am thinking of trying the Vessel View Mobile as a backup to the SC5000. The SC5000 is still readable but I do not want it to fail on me. I have a tablet sitting around doing nothing so I thought I would put it to use.

Also, I was able to fish a wire for the Garmin in hull transducer up to the helm. I took the TV and mounting board off at the slider entrance. Then removed the top of the flexible duct. The fiberglass fish rods went up and angled forward and when they got stuck, I just twisted them. I was in about 4 sections and went up an there it was in the Starboard side under the helm where the bundles of wire feed through. Woo Hoo!

Cheers
 
I’m about to replace my flybridge clears and the trimmer is trying to talk me out of the tinted plastic. I noticed yours is similar to what he’s suggesting and was interested to know your thoughts?

45-D49-C7-D-3769-4-FA8-877-E-E674-FB4-DED23.jpg
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I’m about to replace my flybridge clears and the trimmer is trying to talk me out of the tinted plastic. I noticed yours is similar to what he’s suggesting and was interested to know your thoughts?

45-D49-C7-D-3769-4-FA8-877-E-E674-FB4-DED23.jpg
[/QUOTE]
Are you planning on going with polycarbonate windows? I am happy with how mine turned out and would not change a thing, but will say since I got rid of the smiley window zippers it is a bit harder to zip and unzip the front and rear windows to open and close but still love the look.
One thing I highly recommend is adding a eyebrow zipper with a screen over the front center window to let fresh air in without having to open the front window, this works great on cooler days.
 

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Here’s a couple more pictures from the inside.
 

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Are you planning on going with polycarbonate windows? I am happy with how mine turned out and would not change a thing, but will say since I got rid of the smiley window zippers it is a bit harder to zip and unzip the front and rear windows to open and close but still love the look.
One thing I highly recommend is adding a eyebrow zipper with a screen over the front center window to let fresh air in without having to open the front window, this works great on cooler days.[/QUOTE]
that looks sweet to me sir
 

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