410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

mrsrobinson said:
Does it sync the engines though? Meaning if the needle is in the middle they are in synch? I do not pay attention to the RPMs, rather the needle being in the middle.

https://www.glendinningprods.com/products/synchronizer/

My Glendinning Synchronizer has not worked since I purchased the boat. This came up on the inspection and wasn't a big issue to me. I purchased new cables that come out of the front of the engine and go into the synchronizer, haven't installed them.
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Mine didn’t work when I bought the boat, and I didn’t know what I was missing until I repaired it. Now I use it 100% of the time, at idle or cruise.

The likely issue are the short shafts from the flywheel to the 90 drive are stripped out. If you have the correct shaft and the centering tool, it’s a really easy fix, maybe a 15 minute job per side.

I left my sync gauge in as I use it to keep the engines at roughly the same RPM (+/- 150-200) coming up on plane, but once the Glendinning is engaged, the gauge reads slightly off, but the Aetnas, and engines are completely in sync, with no fiddling with the throttles.

Yeah, I’m a Glendinning Sync fan boy.
 
dtfeld said:
Mine didn’t work when I bought the boat, and I didn’t know what I was missing until I repaired it. Now I use it 100% of the time, at idle or cruise.

The likely issue are the short shafts from the flywheel to the 90 drive are stripped out. If you have the correct shaft and the centering tool, it’s a really easy fix, maybe a 15 minute job per side.

I left my sync gauge in as I use it to keep the engines at roughly the same RPM (+/- 150-200) coming up on plane, but once the Glendinning is engaged, the gauge reads slightly off, but the Aetnas, and engines are completely in sync, with no fiddling with the throttles.

Yeah, I’m a Glendinning Sync fan boy.
Click to expand...

I was an Accu Sync fan, different technology for sure. My boat came with the Sturdy Accu Synch, worked great for years until it didn’t. One throttle operation, engines remained synched for hours on end on long trips. About 4 years ago, Several times, boat was on plane and one motor would cut down to idle for no apparent reason and that was enough for me. No parts or support for the system. Fwebster put me in touch with Glendinning (John I think?). I got a quote to replace the AccuSynch with the Glendinning system but I decided that the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze and that’s when I moved to the Aetna tachs. John (if I recall his name correctly) was a true gentleman, even though I decided to go in a different direction.
 
dtfeld said:
Mine didn’t work when I bought the boat, and I didn’t know what I was missing until I repaired it. Now I use it 100% of the time, at idle or cruise.

The likely issue are the short shafts from the flywheel to the 90 drive are stripped out. If you have the correct shaft and the centering tool, it’s a really easy fix, maybe a 15 minute job per side.

I left my sync gauge in as I use it to keep the engines at roughly the same RPM (+/- 150-200) coming up on plane, but once the Glendinning is engaged, the gauge reads slightly off, but the Aetnas, and engines are completely in sync, with no fiddling with the throttles.

Yeah, I’m a Glendinning Sync fan boy.
Click to expand...
I purchased replacement cables when I bought the boat, I think they came with some other things (maybe the centering tool) and they are still...in a box...on the boat. I don't look forward to climbing in there to replace them.

EDIT: Just checked my email, I actually purchased kits from them that include:

  • drive adaptor
  • flex shaft
  • drive plate
  • alignment tool
Boat is 2 hours away, I can't remember, are there instructions in the box on how to replace them? Google isn't turning up much.
 
Well it’s official. Add me to the list of people with failed water tanks. The last thing I want to do is install another L shaped tank. I’m considering installing two rectangles and pluming them together.
Is there anyone out there that has improved on the L tank system?
 
Happy Canada Day and 4th of July everyone!

I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the seal material for the windshield vent? FP has them in several different profiles bit none are listed for the 400DA. Figured someone here must have replaced it already.
 
I purchased mine from Steele Rubber. They have many options and if you call them, they will ship you samples to match up.
 
Ted Russell said:
Happy Canada Day and 4th of July everyone!

I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the seal material for the windshield vent? FP has them in several different profiles bit none are listed for the 400DA. Figured someone here must have replaced it already.
Click to expand...

Pull a piece out and look at the profile and match it up. The WS100 fit mine perfectly and it was not listed when I ordered it.

Bennett
 
Riptide III said:
Well it’s official. Add me to the list of people with failed water tanks. The last thing I want to do is install another L shaped tank. I’m considering installing two rectangles and pluming them together.
Is there anyone out there that has improved on the L tank system?
Click to expand...

Fully understand your frustration and I know I’m not answering your question. But here goes..

My tank cracked at the top of the L a few years ago. Pulled it and used a hot iron, plastic weld and mesh that I learned from here:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/400-sundancer-water-tnk-crack-and-repair.69878/

so far so good but I’ll never fill it above 3/4 again, that’s when mine seems to really start to expand at the top. Bought a cheapo meter from Amazon to monitor the gallons going in so I don’t have keep checking the gauge in salon when filling.
 
Couple cool pictures from our week on Lake Ontario

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Some difficult questions.
My boat 2006 40 sundancer DA diesels
Want to run a couple of 22 ga wires from eng room to helm station cup holder (that storage area arms reach from helm seat). Trying to find loom or alternate path. Suggestions appreciated.
While at it where is the port side salon/head vent blower located.
Thanks
Byron
 
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output95image1650935437350 1.jpg
Riptide III said:
Well it’s official. Add me to the list of people with failed water tanks. The last thing I want to do is install another L shaped tank. I’m considering installing two rectangles and pluming them together.
Is there anyone out there that has improved on the L tank system?
Click to expand...


I had a friend build me a stainless "L" to replace the plastic POS based on a drawing I received from another 400 owner. We made it a touch smaller on a couple of the dimensions to make it easier to install and not have to purchase a 3rd sheet of stainless and it has worked out great. Changed the location of the water input and I didn't even have to change hose length. The only thing different is the stainless will occasionally make a boom sound when filling. I now fill all the way and have no issues. Well worth the effort and really was not that hard. I did have to drill 4" holes in the top of the old tank so I could put my hands in and pull the old tank straight up to get it out.
 
BGIII said:
View attachment 147345 View attachment 147346


I had a friend build me a stainless "L" to replace the plastic POS based on a drawing I received from another 400 owner. We made it a touch smaller on a couple of the dimensions to make it easier to install and not have to purchase a 3rd sheet of stainless and it has worked out great. Changed the location of the water input and I didn't even have to change hose length. The only thing different is the stainless will occasionally make a boom sound when filling. I now fill all the way and have no issues. Well worth the effort and really was not that hard. I did have to drill 4" holes in the top of the old tank so I could put my hands in and pull the old tank straight up to get it out.
Click to expand...
Nice job! Im torn between stainless in the “L” shape or two poly tanks joined. There is a shop in Maine that will build poly to specifications.
What gauge did you make the stainless? How long ago did you install it? Cost? What would you do different?
 
BGIII said:
View attachment 147345 View attachment 147346

I had a friend build me a stainless "L" to replace the plastic POS based on a drawing I received from another 400 owner. We made it a touch smaller on a couple of the dimensions to make it easier to install and not have to purchase a 3rd sheet of stainless and it has worked out great. Changed the location of the water input and I didn't even have to change hose length. The only thing different is the stainless will occasionally make a boom sound when filling. I now fill all the way and have no issues. Well worth the effort and really was not that hard. I did have to drill 4" holes in the top of the old tank so I could put my hands in and pull the old tank straight up to get it out.
Click to expand...

$$$$'s! That looks awesome...

Do you filter the water before you fill up? Some SS alloys will corrode at or below the normal levels of chlorine found in municipal drink water.
 
My sturdy synchronzier finally bit the dust and its time for a replacement as I can't live without it. Looking at a Glendinning synchro and have a question. Looking to install on my 3116s and I see Glendinning has mechanical drive adapters for the 3116. I also see that the Glendinning has electrical connections for tach senders. Are the mechanical drive adapters required or can one just attach the flywheel magnetic tach pickups to the synchronizer, which is how the Sturdy syncro got its tach feed..
 
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