I agree, that’s why we lock it. I’m also way less anxious about them messing up the door on the 410 versus our old 290. If the door on our 290 was damaged or taken off the track the whole helm had to come out
410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**
- Thread starter mistercomputerman
- Start date
I agree, that’s why we lock it. I’m also way less anxious about them messing up the door on the 410 versus our old 290. If the door on our 290 was damaged or taken off the track the whole helm had to come out
Stee6043
Well-Known Member
I didn't end up getting my fridge removed last weekend so I loaded up and headed to the marina last night to get it done.
Taking the old Norcold out was a breeze, for me it was pretty much as @dtfeld described it a few pages back. Take everything off the back, remove the doors/latches/hinges and it'll go straight through the door with almost zero cussing. Took about an hour.
Today the Nova Kool goes in. I'm a pessimist...we'll see about the cabinet. The smaller of the two width/depth dimensions on the Nova Kool is about 3/4" bigger than the Norcold. The Norcold came right out but there was not an extra 3/4" to be had. Hoping for the best but bringing extra beer for what I fear is inevitable cabinet disassembly.
Taking the old Norcold out was a breeze, for me it was pretty much as @dtfeld described it a few pages back. Take everything off the back, remove the doors/latches/hinges and it'll go straight through the door with almost zero cussing. Took about an hour.
Today the Nova Kool goes in. I'm a pessimist...we'll see about the cabinet. The smaller of the two width/depth dimensions on the Nova Kool is about 3/4" bigger than the Norcold. The Norcold came right out but there was not an extra 3/4" to be had. Hoping for the best but bringing extra beer for what I fear is inevitable cabinet disassembly.
A suggestion - the refrigerators in the 400DA's really suffered from lack of air circulation. I installed a grill in the toe-kick and opened up the back behind where the television is. I noticed the refrigerator didn't cycle as much.I didn't end up getting my fridge removed last weekend so I loaded up and headed to the marina last night to get it done.
Taking the old Norcold out was a breeze, for me it was pretty much as @dtfeld described it a few pages back. Take everything off the back, remove the doors/latches/hinges and it'll go straight through the door with almost zero cussing. Took about an hour.
Today the Nova Kool goes in. I'm a pessimist...we'll see about the cabinet. The smaller of the two width/depth dimensions on the Nova Kool is about 3/4" bigger than the Norcold. The Norcold came right out but there was not an extra 3/4" to be had. Hoping for the best but bringing extra beer for what I fear is inevitable cabinet disassembly.
Stee6043
Well-Known Member
I think you had mentioned this before and it did give me pause when ordering my new one. As I was reading the spec's on the Nova Kool I learned that they are 100% vented from the front (at the bottom). I assume they did this because of what you mentioned...
Ah, You are right. Sheesh, that was years ago....
Lesson learned; on my Sedan Bridge I had to really open up the areas behind the cabinets for the Vitrifrigo refer's I installed because they did not circulate air from the front like the SubZero that came with the boat did.
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,592
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
@Stee6043 Good job getting the old one out!
Getting the new one in through the door was just about as easy once you pull the doors and associated hardware off the new fridge. I thought that would be the hard part, but took 1 minutes with a helper just because its pretty bulky.
I measured the fridges when both were out of the boat and the are almost the exact same size, so the NK will fit very tight in the space. Where I had a problem was the right hand side where the fridge cabinet was set up against the counter top. It bowed the whole cabinet inward and I had to use a rasp to shave that area down. The bow was visible to the naked eye, but yours looks much straighter.
If you don't have a rasp, stop at the HW store and get one, as it will make fine tuning the opening easy. You may or may not even need it, but a very useful tool to have for this job. Also buy a second blade! I broke mine and had to stop to drive out to the HW store again....grrrr Everything is returnable if not used.
Getting the new one in through the door was just about as easy once you pull the doors and associated hardware off the new fridge. I thought that would be the hard part, but took 1 minutes with a helper just because its pretty bulky.
I measured the fridges when both were out of the boat and the are almost the exact same size, so the NK will fit very tight in the space. Where I had a problem was the right hand side where the fridge cabinet was set up against the counter top. It bowed the whole cabinet inward and I had to use a rasp to shave that area down. The bow was visible to the naked eye, but yours looks much straighter.
If you don't have a rasp, stop at the HW store and get one, as it will make fine tuning the opening easy. You may or may not even need it, but a very useful tool to have for this job. Also buy a second blade! I broke mine and had to stop to drive out to the HW store again....grrrr Everything is returnable if not used.
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,592
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
One other point about getting the NK installed. Because it is such a tight fit, getting it lifted up such that you can slide the unit back into the cabinet was the most difficult part, just because the area is so tight, no room to get 2 people on it.
I used a 1x4 with my trucks emergency jack to do the lifting, then I could slide the unit easily back into the cabinet. Once you get the bottom started on the ledge, its easy from there. I did this by myself. The bottom of the fridge isnt that ridgid, so I would recommend at least a 1x4, doubled up or a 2x4.
It took me 3-4 attempts as I had to remove a lot of the right side of the cabinet to correct for the bow.
Once in and screwed in place. it is very solid.
I used a 1x4 with my trucks emergency jack to do the lifting, then I could slide the unit easily back into the cabinet. Once you get the bottom started on the ledge, its easy from there. I did this by myself. The bottom of the fridge isnt that ridgid, so I would recommend at least a 1x4, doubled up or a 2x4.
It took me 3-4 attempts as I had to remove a lot of the right side of the cabinet to correct for the bow.
Once in and screwed in place. it is very solid.
Stee6043
Well-Known Member
Awesome tips. Thank you!
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,592
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
You'll have ice cold beer in that new fridge by noon!!
midexp
Active Member
- Oct 5, 2016
- 424
- Boat Info
- 1999 40' Sundancer
- Engines
- 454 merc
LOL, so after all the threads I read on this where EVERYBODY removed the cabinet the fridge is in and all the trim in the door, you didn't do any of that? Thanks for the detailed instructions. My Norcold is still original and going strong, but I'm sure my time is coming. Did you post the make of your new unit?
Stee6043
Well-Known Member
Well I’m about to start the real drinking now. I’ll share the full bloody story when my BP returns to normal. Easily the most unpleasant boat project I’ve taken on. 7 F’ing hours including cleanup. Unreal amounts of cussing.
Yes…the cabinet has to come out on the 400.
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,592
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
Maybe noon of next week?
Cheap Guy
Active Member
A long time ago, when I first got my 250, I was at a marginal marina and would always lock my cabin door with the teak surround. Sure enough, some one broke the latch and the teak to steal a 9" Black and White portable TV that weighed a ton. Turns out it was the security employees hired to guard the marina so they knew when we weren't around. Fast forward maybe 20 years later, the teak is still messed up because it's hard to find replacement pieces and now I absolutely leave my cabin unlocked - any idiot that wants my steal my $80 19" flat screen can have it, lol.
Btw, I'm currently looking at a new fridge - that's why I came across this thread. The Isotherm Cruise series looks pretty good for my particular situation but lots of good info in this thread.
scott1956
Member
- Oct 16, 2016
- 87
- Boat Info
- 2000 410 Sundancer
1999 Bayliner Trophy 1802
- Engines
- Caterpillar 3126
Sea Ray System Monitor. Can anyone pleSe educate me on what the Sea Ray System Monitor does on a 2000 410 Sundancer with CAT 3126 diesels.
I purchased last summer and the screen on the helm was not working. Today I found the breaker in the engine room, flipped it on, and the breaker panel immediately started smoking. I could not trip the breaker off (a stupid design). Averted disaster by switching the batteries off, killing the shore power, and then disconnecting the batteries. Here is a picture of the control box that sits under the engine Synchronizer that continued smoking for a while. I have been running the boat with the breaker (unknowingly) off all last season so I assume all engine functions and systems will continue to work. Im trying to figure out what it does, what functions it performs, what am I risking without it. I imagine that the controller is no longer available, is there any alternative?
Thanks in advance
I purchased last summer and the screen on the helm was not working. Today I found the breaker in the engine room, flipped it on, and the breaker panel immediately started smoking. I could not trip the breaker off (a stupid design). Averted disaster by switching the batteries off, killing the shore power, and then disconnecting the batteries. Here is a picture of the control box that sits under the engine Synchronizer that continued smoking for a while. I have been running the boat with the breaker (unknowingly) off all last season so I assume all engine functions and systems will continue to work. Im trying to figure out what it does, what functions it performs, what am I risking without it. I imagine that the controller is no longer available, is there any alternative?
Thanks in advance
First the circuit breakers - They are protected off, designed that way to prevent accidental tripping and shutting down the boat. You can always trip them off with a thin blade or paper clip wire inserted in the little slot.
Second, the circuit breaker box started to smoke. Do you mean the systems monitor box started to smoke?? That is a tiny 6 amp circuit breaker that provides the electrical to the systems monitor. Sounds like someone has been that box before and possibly changed some things around....
Lastly, The systems monitor notifies the helm/captain when bilge pumps come on, low oil pressure on the engines, high coolant temperature on the engines, generator unintended shutdown. It's kind of important...
scott1956
Member
- Oct 16, 2016
- 87
- Boat Info
- 2000 410 Sundancer
1999 Bayliner Trophy 1802
- Engines
- Caterpillar 3126
Thank you. First there was smoke from the “system monitor” breaker” and i killed the batteries at the switches right above. The breaker was very hot and didn’t trip until AFTER the batteries were shut down, that was very strange. About 3-4 minutes later the control box (not the helm display) in the engine room to the right of the 12v breakers and under the Engine Synchronizer unit started smoking, it probably took that long for the smoke to work its way out from the sealed casing.
scott1956
Member
- Oct 16, 2016
- 87
- Boat Info
- 2000 410 Sundancer
1999 Bayliner Trophy 1802
- Engines
- Caterpillar 3126
So i guess the answer is that I need a new system monitor or need to find another way to manager the alarms.
damn, sounds terrible to say but I’m looking forward to the story…
Strange indeed. I'd get someone who knows the wiring of that boat and get that circuit breaker box open and see exactly why the circuit breaker did not trip. Very concerning. The Systems Monitor interface box burning like that is a serious situation; way more than 6 amps tripping current caused that.
unsalted
Active Member
- Jan 21, 2022
- 264
- Boat Info
- 2001 Sundancer 310
- Engines
- Twin MX 6.2L MPI w/Bravo III Drives
Looks like your systems monitor control box made an ash of itself. I’ve heard many a woeful tail of systems monitors gone bad but never one flaming out. You could also consider replacing the functionality with other tech that can be integrated into a MFD if you have one. I know on gasser’s we have options to purchase things like the fox-marine engine gateway that gets all the important engine info on the display (that’s what I did). Don’t know if you have options for your CATs. Maybe someone can chime in. There are also options that will convert things like tank levels to NMEA 2000 and I assume sensors to detect when the bilge pumps are operating (I don’t have mine hooked up). Just a thought in case you wanted to pursue options other than the systems monitor.
