410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

dtfeld said:
Anybody ever take the cabinet/cover out below the electrical panel? I would like to get in there to access the duct work for the cabin AC. Would also allow easier running of a new thermostat wire.

I removed every screw I could find that looks remotely like it would hold that panel in, but it wont budge...

View attachment 128268
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I vaguely remember screws on the top of it as well, accessible by flipping the DC panel down. Did you pull those too?

maybe it’s just really stuck to the vinyl? I know I’ve had to run a putty knife between pieces like that to get them to let go
 
Strecker25 said:
I vaguely remember screws on the top of it as well, accessible by flipping the DC panel down. Did you pull those too?

maybe it’s just really stuck to the vinyl? I know I’ve had to run a putty knife between pieces like that to get them to let go
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Yes..there wre 3 on the bottom and a couple on top in the electrical panel. Its loose, but just seems wedged in. I'll have to take a putty knife tomorrow.
 
dtfeld said:
Anybody ever take the cabinet/cover out below the electrical panel? I would like to get in there to access the duct work for the cabin AC. Would also allow easier running of a new thermostat wire.

I removed every screw I could find that looks remotely like it would hold that panel in, but it wont budge...

View attachment 128268
Click to expand...
Dave, I just disconnected my tstat cable and taped it to the new cable and pulled it right through the opening into the ac compartment. Mine is configured a little differently but the cable wasn't zip tied in place. A small fiberglass fish rod would certainly work too. I have one if you need it.
 
Cocktail Time said:
Dave, I just disconnected my tstat cable and taped it to the new cable and pulled it right through the opening into the ac compartment. Mine is configured a little differently but the cable wasn't zip tied in place. A small fiberglass fish rod would certainly work too. I have one if you need it.
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My thermostat cord is bundled into a couple other wires and isnt easily accessed. I have a fiberglass snake, but its going to be a pretty interesting pull. Just ran out of time today on that aspect.

However, I want to get back there as this is where the ducting is. The new AC is oriented 180* from the old one, so I need more duct length, but I'd love to just replace as there is a bunch of crap in them.

Or maybe brush them out/disinfect...
 
Stee6043 said:
Hmm...this is exactly how I have mine wired but the amps are for the cockpit speakers. I've got my Fusion head unit powering the cabin speakers directly, 1 amp for the cockpit 6.5's and 1 amp for the cockpit sub.

What's powering your cockpit speakers if not those amps? You have two more amps somewhere onboard?
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Now it is two Fusion 504 amps bridged in the salon powering the V Berth and Salon speakers in zones 1 and 2 respectively. 2 JL M/1000 5V2 amps under the helm bench seat powering the cockpit, transom, inside arch, outside arch, and 2 subwoofers. One JL amp drives zone 3, one drives zone 4.

In reality I could have put the V Berth and Salon on the same zone, but then I would have had to change the wiring from the head unit to the cockpit amps, and it just wasn't worth the trouble. The only downsize is that the transom speakers are on the same zone as the outside arch speakers, so if I want music at the dock it is also coming up to the bow, but it wasn't worth rewiring the setup just to correct for that.

The fact that the salon amps were powering up and connected to nothing is what surprised me.
 
yobub said:
Now it is two Fusion 504 amps bridged in the salon powering the V Berth and Salon speakers in zones 1 and 2 respectively. 2 JL M/1000 5V2 amps under the helm bench seat powering the cockpit, transom, inside arch, outside arch, and 2 subwoofers. One JL amp drives zone 3, one drives zone 4.

In reality I could have put the V Berth and Salon on the same zone, but then I would have had to change the wiring from the head unit to the cockpit amps, and it just wasn't worth the trouble. The only downsize is that the transom speakers are on the same zone as the outside arch speakers, so if I want music at the dock it is also coming up to the bow, but it wasn't worth rewiring the setup just to correct for that.

The fact that the salon amps were powering up and connected to nothing is what surprised me.
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My ears are ringing just reading this post :):)
 
It’s the little things, $10 for a new drain and good god how gross the drain pipe was

F39EE7E7-47AC-4216-AB37-C90101BE78F9.jpeg
 
I want to do the head sinks too, they're smaller so I might pull it and go to HD or lowes and match them up
 
Strecker25 said:
I want to do the head sinks too, they're smaller so I might pull it and go to HD or lowes and match them up
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I bought mine at HD after the stopper went missing. Nice easy upgrade for that sink. Now for the cockpit sink!

I'd love to do the shower, but how to access??
 
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dtfeld said:
I bought mine at HD after the stopper went missing. Nice easy upgrade for that sink. Nor for the cockpit sink!

I'd love to do the shower, but how to access??
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I can get to mine, I have to take the thruster battery out but there's a very skinny opening I can get my hand up there
 
Strecker25 said:
I can get to mine, I have to take the thruster battery out but there's a very skinny opening I can get my hand up there
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When I did the ones in the shower on our 44DB, they were pure hell. SR used gobs of silicone on them and access was difficult at best. I had to wind up with a Dremel tool cutting the nut off of the underside of the drain.

If you find something at HD for the sinks let us know. I was not able to find them there and put that project on hold.

The cockpit sink is different. I can look on Amazon and see what I ordered. I replaced the cockpit sink with SS as well. I will look and post.

Edit: Search Ambassador Marine Sink Drain on Amazon for your cockpit sink drain.

Bennett
 
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bbwhitejr said:
When I did the ones in the shower on our 44DB, they were pure hell. SR used gobs of silicone on them and access was difficult at best. I had to wind up with a Dremel tool cutting the nut off of the underside of the drain.

If you find something at HD for the sinks let us know. I was not able to find them there and put that project on hold.

The cockpit sink is different. I can look on Amazon and see what I ordered. I replaced the cockpit sink with SS as well. I will look and post.

Edit: Search Ambassador Marine Sink Drain on Amazon for your cockpit sink drain.

Bennett
Click to expand...

will do! The silicone was an insane move and totally unnecessary. Proper bedding in plumbers putty and the rubber gasket that came with this new drain sealed perfecrly fine. It’s like someone at SR had stock in silicone when these boats were assembled
 
nealtrombley said:
410 with cats.. tab mod done, tested
before mod
clean bottom
propglide on gear
3/4 fuel 3/4 water 2 adults
2300 rpm
22mph
WOT 30mph 2800 rpm

with mod
new bottom
3/4 fuel/ water 2 adults
propglide on gear
2300 cruise
26 mph avg
WOT rpm 2800rpm
wot 31 ( was run in river 15mph headwind)
The boat pops right up. and bows down nicley... you dont have to bury the tabs now.. I need to play more with the tabs and cruise for sure.. for now 3 to 4 mph and more bow down is a plus
This was done off of Ft myers beach... new composite cutlass bearings and Props

2300 rpm View attachment 125590 View attachment 125591


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View attachment 125586 View attachment 125587
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What is the brand/width of the new tabs?
 
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