Not on new to us boats, they are 24/7/365 for at least a year or two...maybe 3
lol exactly.
thought I’d pop my head down into the bilge to do the gen fuel filter, yeah right…I’m going to need a pipe wrench to get that thing loose
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Not on new to us boats, they are 24/7/365 for at least a year or two...maybe 3
Thank you amd I’ll locate those things tomorrow once I get back to boat amd hopefully it’s the issueThat usually means not enough water or air flow. Most likely not enough water flow, but first check easy things:
1. Check to see if filter screen on compressor is dirty.
2. Check to see if the strainer in the engine room needs to be cleaned.
Thank you amd I’ll locate those things tomorrow once I get back to boat amd hopefully it’s the issue
Thanks againget a look at the thru hulls while it’s running too. The hoses split off right at the pump in the bilge so the salon can have good flow but a blockage or restriction on the other
Once you are sure the controller is set to cool, and not heat - 1) Clean the wire mesh air filter on the side of the unit. It just slides up and out from the side of the cooling coil. You can clean it by spraying it with water from a hose. If it was clogged with dust the unit will freeze up and you will need to let it thaw. 2) Make sure the water pump is working and water is coming out of both AC ports on the side of the boat when the compressor is running. If no water is flowing, check to make sure the AC Seacock is completely open. If open and no water is flowing, turn off AC, close seacock and clean the strainer. If the pump is running and the strainer is clean and you still have no water, you may have lost your prime. You can remove the hose as it enters the cooling coil. Many times removing the hose reestablishes the prime itself. Some times you might need to resort by the old fashion Syphon (suck on the end of the hose). If that does not work, you may need to call for service and get the unit charged with coolant. I hope I helped.Hello all, have a 2000 410 da and yesterday the main state room A/C powered up but wasn’t producing much cold air, at one point it had a reading of either PS or P5 couldn’t tell.
has two 30 AMP cords and I tried switching those due to galley area A/C working great and thinking PS meant power supply, but that didn’t work.
Any suggestions?
Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread
And here is what a Vitrifrigo looks like installed. The freezer is at about 6 degrees and the fridge part running about 34 degrees. (more crappy cell phone pictures)
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Great Job! I'm looking forward to a working fridge. Looks like the Vitrifrigo is the way to go!!!Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread
And here is what a Vitrifrigo looks like installed. The freezer is at about 6 degrees and the fridge part running about 34 degrees. (more crappy cell phone pictures)
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No worries, I for one would rather someone offer to help out with good advice a couple times than everyone stay quiet. Thanks for helping. Reminded me, it's time to clean my filters and fins.I guess I should have read further up. I see I offered nothing new.
OK so here is a tough one.
My rear head vacuflush vacuum generator was running about every 10 minutes. So of course I change all the duckbills - to my surprise no change. I disconnected the hose from the rear head to the vacuum generator with the plug shown in the attached picture and it still cycled every 10 mins so I figured it must be tank system related. I changed the vacuum switch and the fault changed from cycling every 10 minutes to now every 2 hours. I then changed the pump bellows and the system holds past the 2 hours but still loses vacuum over night. I took each of the fittings off of the tank and either used seal tape or pure silicone grease and re-installed them with no change. With the toilet disconnected it still loses vacuum overnight (I turn the breaker off at night and when I turn it on in the am it cycles over to create vacuum).
Any thoughts? Ideas? No visible sign on the tank being cracked and I tried the shaving cream test on all of the joints with no success....
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Look closely for cracks in the pump body where the threaded duckbill fittings connect. If those are tightened too tight it will crack the pump body then there is nothing that can be done except replace the body.OK so here is a tough one.
My rear head vacuflush vacuum generator was running about every 10 minutes. So of course I change all the duckbills - to my surprise no change. I disconnected the hose from the rear head to the vacuum generator with the plug shown in the attached picture and it still cycled every 10 mins so I figured it must be tank system related. I changed the vacuum switch and the fault changed from cycling every 10 minutes to now every 2 hours. I then changed the pump bellows and the system holds past the 2 hours but still loses vacuum over night. I took each of the fittings off of the tank and either used seal tape or pure silicone grease and re-installed them with no change. With the toilet disconnected it still loses vacuum overnight (I turn the breaker off at night and when I turn it on in the am it cycles over to create vacuum).
Any thoughts? Ideas? No visible sign on the tank being cracked and I tried the shaving cream test on all of the joints with no success....
View attachment 111065
Look closely for cracks in the pump body where the threaded duckbill fittings connect. If those are tightened too tight it will crack the pump body then there is nothing that can be done except replace the body.
Also look to see if that O-ring that seals the bellows to the pump top plate is correctly installed; it can get out of place when installing the top plate.
I always use a generous coating of silicone grease on all of the rubber parts when assembling. Nothing in the assembly needs to be excessively tightened.
I will look at the pump body next time I am down, I did use the silicone grease and all new O rings so I believe those are good. Very frustrating...
Interesting, that I can easily try