40 sedan bridge forum

PMC said:
Looks good. I'm really wrestling with a new carpet vs wood. Having easy to open hatches is really nice, the look is beautiful. My concern is sound, those turbos are loud, and I often run with a crew below.
Have you figured out what to do with the carpet toe kick?
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Well, I just now took them off. What an incredible pain to find those screws and loosen them. Sea Ray clearly didn't pre drill. Just grabbed the screw gun and started driving in screws. I am going to go to the hardware store and see what options exist there. Also, I may just build new stairs and make a removable air intake grid on one of the risers so I can reach in and clean the air filter without having to remove the stairs.

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Prosideus said:
Looking good ZZ. I like the floor hinges, which are missing in mine.


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How do you open your hatches? I use mine all the time. Which is also why I didn't want the big factory carpet. I will have a rug over the salon floor hiding the handles, much like yours.

So what's your observation of noise and heat without the big foam backed factory rug?
 
I push the hatches up from underneath.

I can't speak to the noise. This is one of the first things we did when we took ownership 4 years ago. So I don't have a good comparison.


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Did the forward area. Now to figure out stairs and trim.

One note: my two hatch panels were neither square with one another nor even the same height. So trying to butt the flooring on the edges of the panels to within a fraction of an inch, was impossible.
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When I bought the flooring over a year ago it was about the only snap and click solid vinyl game in town. Now there are lots of options. Lowes has a nice line and they all run around $50 for a 20 square foot box, if anyone decides to do this in vinyl.
 
I just changed all the faucets, the kitchen and the bathrooms, bought in Home Depot, have to use long extension to do the connections, the brand is Glacier
Here are some pictures
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Fernando DaCosta
 
Great job. How did you manage to get the fittings under the sink out? There is very little work area. Did you remove something in order to replace it? My drain fitting is corroded also.
Did you replace it?
Thanks/
 
My apology if this is not the right forum to ask this question, but I need help with removing the screws/bolts from the Anchor roller plate. I purchased the boat a while back with a broken anchor roller guide plate. There's 4 screws/bolts that just spins when I try to remove it. There's a stainless steel plate located under the bow pulpit. I thought it would have an access hole, which would allow me to hold the nut in place while I turn the screw. However, to my surprise, there's no access hole. Does one cut a hole there and the stainless plate is to cover the hole? Holding the nut in place from the inside-(rode storage) is not an option--too far to reach. I'm curious how the roller guide plate was installed. Thanks for any info.
 
epfishon said:
My apology if this is not the right forum to ask this question, but I need help with removing the screws/bolts from the Anchor roller plate. I purchased the boat a while back with a broken anchor roller guide plate. There's 4 screws/bolts that just spins when I try to remove it. There's a stainless steel plate located under the bow pulpit. I thought it would have an access hole, which would allow me to hold the nut in place while I turn the screw. However, to my surprise, there's no access hole. Does one cut a hole there and the stainless plate is to cover the hole? Holding the nut in place from the inside

epfishon, Aloha there. I can not specifically help with your question. However, you want to consider starting a separate thread titled something like "Anchor Roller Plate Removal - Help". It will most likely get a broader view....good luck with your endeavor.
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So I repurposed the factory stairs this weekend. What an ugly pile of dirty smelly carpet and such. It took me over two hours to remove all the carpet and the 10,000 staples that held it in. I still have to put on one more coat of paint. The first coat was used to show me all the places I had to fill with putty. The width of the top step will be an install adjustment. It's cut too wide on purpose right now.
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Bill, I hope you are not insulted, but, I am looking to copy your work. I looks beautiful. What did you use for adhesive?
 
mjmason1 said:
Bill, I hope you are not insulted, but, I am looking to copy your work. I looks beautiful. What did you use for adhesive?
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No worries. Copy away. I just run some adhesive caulk around the edges of the floor. Whatever I have around. Also the little bullnose surrounding the treads is just a thin PVC lattice I found at HD. It was thin enough to bend around the curve and soft enough to easily cut with a utility knife.
 
Stairs are in. Hardest part was getting the top tread level with the salon floor. Had to add spacers to the existing mounting cleats. I might see if I can find a little rubber "T" transition to slip into the gap. Now I gotta finish caulking down the floor and installing the trim where the carpeted trim was.
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