40 sedan bridge forum

Our model boat has a molded fiberglass galley countertop/sink. I have a couple of nicks in the sink and some knife cut marks on the top. I am thinking of applying the wet sandpaper approach followed by a compound and polish to refurb it. Also I guess I could fill the nicks (and possibly the deeper knife cuts) with a light brown/tan gelcoat patch paste from Spectrum color. Has anyone tried any of this on your 400DB galley counter?
 
The galley counter tops have a lot of gelcoat so they can withstand some wet sanding. If you can hang your fingernail in the cuts/scratches, you probably need to fill them before block sanding.

My sink and counter top were damaged by the first owner......I honestly don't know how he did that much damage in 9 months. I took a different approach. I ordered some gelcoat from Sea Ray and used a Preval sprayer to re- gelcoat the sink and spot repair the bad scratches in the counter top. It was pretty labor intensive, but the sink and counter top looked new when I finished.

Good luck with it........
 
We used it on our Lake boat at Lake Cumberland and it worked awesome. I even cut really small pieces like 2'x6' and stuck them on my ladder steps and they have been on for over 2 years now and no corner peal or anything.

We are planning on using it on our SeaRay 415 aft cabin walkways.
 
The crime scene said:
I am thinking about putting SeaDek (Faux Teak attern) on my swim platform and helm. Has anybody ever used this product? I like the way it looks on their website. I have talked to the customer service rep and they are sending me a template to measure my boat. It is expensive and "on the fence" about whether it is worth it. I have removed the carpet on my 40 sedan bridge and looking for something new and different.

I am open to opinions.....and the good or bad of SeaDek. I have tried to upload a picture and cannot get it to load. The website is seadek.com



Strictly opinion - no direct knowledge - However we have considered the same for our 400DB. Here's what we learned - looks great, adds much aesthetically, can be hot on bare feet. Why didn't we do it? Professional installation for the bridge, stairs, cockpit and swim platform was north of $12,000. Although we loved the look, realistically it made no sense to us on a boat at our price point.

We've got light color Berber carpet in those places now and we have recently found that bleach has been our best bet for keeping the mildew under control. If that experiment doesn't play out, we'll probably go to the Infinity carpet product. Also looks great, but professional installation in the same areas (minus the platform) would be in the $2500 range, or so we've been quoted.

Good luck either way!
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You should give Ttcustommarine.com a look. We put down Aqua Trak from them. Like Sea Dek but has a layer of PVC for strength and durability. They have templates for most SR boats already. It is very easy to install yourself-simply peel and stick. Travis, owner, is a great guy.

Bennett
 
My 2001 400 Sedan Bridge with Cummins diesels has two different brands of dripless shaft seals. Does anyone know what brand Sea Ray used in the build?
 
Kilobravo said:
My 2001 400 Sedan Bridge with Cummins diesels has two different brands of dripless shaft seals. Does anyone know what brand Sea Ray used in the build?
Click to expand...
Tides Strong Seal. Since replaced by Tides with the Sure Seal line.
 
I have a question. When I bought my 400 Sedan Bridge the starboard throttle cable was very stiff. I assumed this was just a bad cable and planned to replace it. I had my mechanic at the boat yesterday and he says the cable is fine but the reason for the stiffness is because the cable is hooked to a motor for the autopilot. He says he can bypass the autopilot motor and hook the cable directly to the throttle and I will have a "free" cable but I will of course lose autopilot and engine synch capability. He insistis the stiffness is normal for these "old" autopilots. This doesn't sound right to me. Thoughts?
 
Aviator said:
The crime scene said:
I am thinking about putting SeaDek (Faux Teak attern) on my swim platform and helm. Has anybody ever used this product? I like the way it looks on their website. I have talked to the customer service rep and they are sending me a template to measure my boat. It is expensive and "on the fence" about whether it is worth it. I have removed the carpet on my 40 sedan bridge and looking for something new and different.

I am open to opinions.....and the good or bad of SeaDek. I have tried to upload a picture and cannot get it to load. The website is seadek.com



Strictly opinion - no direct knowledge - However we have considered the same for our 400DB. Here's what we learned - looks great, adds much aesthetically, can be hot on bare feet. Why didn't we do it? Professional installation for the bridge, stairs, cockpit and swim platform was north of $12,000. Although we loved the look, realistically it made no sense to us on a boat at our price point.

We've got light color Berber carpet in those places now and we have recently found that bleach has been our best bet for keeping the mildew under control. If that experiment doesn't play out, we'll probably go to the Infinity carpet product. Also looks great, but professional installation in the same areas (minus the platform) would be in the $2500 range, or so we've been quoted.

Good luck either way!
Click to expand...

When you say hot on the feet, is that what you have head, or is that direct knowledge? I have samples of Infinity and I like the look.

Thank, Keith
Click to expand...
 
The crime scene said:
Aviator said:
When you say hot on the feet, is that what you have head, or is that direct knowledge? I have samples of Infinity and I like the look.

Thank, Keith
Click to expand...


Yes, when we were considering the faux teak we "walk tested" several brands. Bottom line - darker color is hotter when exposed to sun. There are several posts on the subject from others who have the product installed that may provide better insight.

For us the heat retention wasn't the deal breaker - it was the cost. Price aside - my opinion - it looks great in the bridge/cockpit/platform.
Click to expand...
 
00squirrel said:
I have a question. When I bought my 400 Sedan Bridge the starboard throttle cable was very stiff. I assumed this was just a bad cable and planned to replace it. I had my mechanic at the boat yesterday and he says the cable is fine but the reason for the stiffness is because the cable is hooked to a motor for the autopilot. He says he can bypass the autopilot motor and hook the cable directly to the throttle and I will have a "free" cable but I will of course lose autopilot and engine synch capability. He insistis the stiffness is normal for these "old" autopilots. This doesn't sound right to me. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Mine is not stiff like you have mentioned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not what you wanted to hear, but you need a new mechanic.

First, the throttle cable doesn't connect to the autopilot. If it connects to anything but the engine, it is your synchronizer. The synchronizer puts no additional load on the throttle cable unless it has malfunctioned, provided you are using it correctly. Therefore, disconnecting it isn't a solution since it is a very useful option.

Before doing anything else, check this: Do you feel the added resistance on the port or stbd throttle and does it happen all the time or perhaps just when the synchronizer if switched on? The synchronizer usually slaves the stbd engine off the port engine. When you turn the synchronizer on, you should advance the stbd throttle all the way to the stop (don't worry, if the synchronizer is working correctly, that engine will not speed up). If you don't, then the throttle effort is increased because you are moving both throttle cables when you advance the port one. With the stbd throttle advanced, the synchronizer doesn't have to move that one and your throttle effort on the port side is just the same as it is with the synchronizer turned off.

I hope you can follow that.....it is really hard to put in words, but easy to understand when you are on the boat and can see what is going on.
 
fwebster said:
Not what you wanted to hear, but you need a new mechanic.

First, the throttle cable doesn't connect to the autopilot. If it connects to anything but the engine, it is your synchronizer. The synchronizer puts no additional load on the throttle cable unless it has malfunctioned, provided you are using it correctly. Therefore, disconnecting it isn't a solution since it is a very useful option.

Before doing anything else, check this: Do you feel the added resistance on the port or stbd throttle and does it happen all the time or perhaps just when the synchronizer if switched on? The synchronizer usually slaves the stbd engine off the port engine. When you turn the synchronizer on, you should advance the stbd throttle all the way to the stop (don't worry, if the synchronizer is working correctly, that engine will not speed up). If you don't, then the throttle effort is increased because you are moving both throttle cables when you advance the port one. With the stbd throttle advanced, the synchronizer doesn't have to move that one and your throttle effort on the port side is just the same as it is with the synchronizer turned off.

I hope you can follow that.....it is really hard to put in words, but easy to understand when you are on the boat and can see what is going on.
Click to expand...

I was kind of thinking the same thing about needing a new mechanic. I'm not sure who I can get as the guy am using has the best reputation in town. I will talk to someone else.
 
Hi All,

I was wondering what the trick is to removing the upholstered portions of the master stateroom so that I can recover them? Also, this 1998 DB vessel is still new to me, I have the cross bars for second stateroom but cannot locate or do not recognize what hard surface is used to bridge the gap so that sleeping surface is one large bed, insights please.

Thanks,
Stephen
 
Islandbound said:
Hi All,

I was wondering what the trick is to removing the upholstered portions of the master stateroom so that I can recover them? Also, this 1998 DB vessel is still new to me, I have the cross bars for second stateroom but cannot locate or do not recognize what hard surface is used to bridge the gap so that sleeping surface is one large bed, insights please.

Thanks,
Stephen
Click to expand...

Stephen,

Each of your twin bunks in the port stateroom have storage under them, perhaps the filler board is in one of those? Another place to look is under one of the twin mattresses (between the mattress and base)?
 
Last edited:
Islandbound said:
Hi All,

I was wondering what the trick is to removing the upholstered portions of the master stateroom so that I can recover them? Also, this 1998 DB vessel is still new to me, I have the cross bars for second stateroom but cannot locate or do not recognize what hard surface is used to bridge the gap so that sleeping surface is one large bed, insights please.

Thanks,
Stephen
Click to expand...

The filler board for mine is kept in the inner twin bunk.
 
Islandbound, I pulled mine off. They are foam on top of plywood. The wood has plastic dowels which are pushed into a female receiving end. No glue on mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Probably not high on anyone's "to-do" list but... Has anyone ever considered doing something to update the look of the aluminum trim surrounding the exterior base of the flybridge? As I look at photos of our boat that is one thing that seems to "date" it. Newer boats seem to favor the cleaner look, with little metal trim or striping on the superstructure. We've thought about paint, but figured the ongoing maintenance would be a headache.

Just looking for ideas...
 
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