40 sedan bridge forum

Well, we were going to pull the plug this weekend, but this is in our future:


FRIDAY...SOUTH WINDS 15 TO 25 KNOTS. A CHANCE OF SHOWERS IN THE
MORNING. A CHANCE OF THUNDERSTORMS. SHOWERS IN THE AFTERNOON.
WAVES 3 TO 5 FEET SUBSIDING TO 2 TO 4 FEET.
.FRIDAY NIGHT...SOUTH WINDS 20 TO 25 KNOTS BECOMING SOUTHWEST TO
30 KNOTS. SHOWERS LIKELY. WAVES 3 TO 5 FEET BUILDING TO 5 TO
8 FEET.
.SATURDAY...SOUTHWEST WINDS TO 30 KNOTS BECOMING WEST 15 TO
25 KNOTS. SHOWERS LIKELY...THEN A CHANCE OF SHOWERS OVERNIGHT.
WAVES 7 TO 10 FEET SUBSIDING TO 5 TO 7 FEET.
.SUNDAY...WEST WINDS 15 TO 25 KNOTS BECOMING SOUTH 10 TO
20 KNOTS. A CHANCE OF SHOWERS. WAVES 4 TO 6 FEET SUBSIDING TO
3 TO 5 FEET.

Sooo.. we hauled today.
It was a great season here, over 100 hrs, 1000 miles, and a couple nice trips.
best part was we spent more than 50% of the time since May living on it.
I'll winterize it Saturday and then get ready for a few winter projects.
We're out
 
mjmason1 said:
I'll take one this weekend.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike. Looks like I can get one made to the size I need from BoatOutfitters for about $200. Similar in look to the other doors, just with a starboard frame rather than the Sea Ray custom metal frame.

Also, inside that area I now have a 110 outlet and available 12V connectors on the end of the 12V cable that went to the fridge (since I don't need to power the fridge anymore). Gotta find a way to use that to my advantage. Might consider putting a 12V socket outside next to the speaker. Possible the same with a 110V outdoor receptacle right next to the new door.
 
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ZZ13 said:
I finished stopping the rain water leaks into the engine room from the butt ends of the upper rub rail. I removed the SS insert and rub rail screws far enough toward the bow to pull the rub rail end away from the hull. On the port side I found an unused screw hole with a dime sized chunk of gelcoat chipped off. I also found the top 1/4 inch of the hulls vertical seam was not sealed. On the starboard side I found two unused screw holes where water could freely run in. Again, with top, bottom and end of the rub rail all caulked up any water just dammed up there at the butt end and ran in through those holes, since the butt end is the lowest point of the entire run of the rubrail.

I plugged all the holes and gaps and left the lower edge of the butt end of the rubrail un-caulked and the end of the SS insert uncaulked. This is to have a drain for any water that works into the rub rail anywhere along its path.

Here is a picture of the crap that built up from the dam effect.
View attachment 37443
View attachment 37444
Click to expand...

Bill,
We hauled last week for the season , and today was able to get some pics of the bottoms of the rub rails on our boat. There are drain holes drilled in the bottoms of the rails at the aft end of every piece. There are two near the end of the last piece on each side. This is not something that I expect that the PO did, but I am not sure. Maybe Someone else with a later model (2003 - 2004) could say if their boat has these. Obviously they are there to drain the rails, and something you might consider.
IMG_2600_zps3fd24660.jpg


IMG_2601_zps2a2bb551.jpg


IMG_2602_zps83cb33b2.jpg
 
We have a '99, a '01 and an '02 400 DB at our marina. None of these boats have those holes in the rub rail. Also, the rub rail is mostly solid. The stainless insert is only screwed into the rub rail with short screws that don't penetrate the hull. Those weep holes almost look too far away from the hull to be in the small hollow portion of the rub rail. Maybe they are right before the solid portion starts, though.
 
OK - I'm new to the Club! Just sold my Everglades center Console and bought a 98 400 Sedan Bridge! I've had it in my slip for about 3 weeks now and it's the best decision I ever made. Like everyone else, I've got work to do to make it perfect but I can already tell this is going to be great! I'll definitely be depending on you guys for help along the way.
 
Help, learning and comradery , with a few laughs thrown in is what it's about
Welcome and safe boating
 
8anu7a6u.jpg

That time of year again but have to say it has been a great first summer on the new boat!

Over the winter I am going to do a bunch of reno's in the salon. One of which is replacing as much brass as possible with chrome.

Does anyone have a good online source for the switch plate covers, knobs etc that will work with those currently on my '01?

Also recovering the sofa and love seat and getting rid of the tufting around the ceiling. Thinking either wood like the newer models or like my wife is suggesting a faux stone. Has anyone else replaced this trim and could share some pictures?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Try Flounder Pounder (searay-parts.com). They have all the knobs.

Show us pics when you are all done with de-gathering your sofas and ceiling trim. Not sure what Sea Ray was thinking with that decorator design those couple of years
 
Spectrum. Just give them your hull number and they can send a paste to match. How much so you need? Might have to blend your own if it is a job larger than a few inches.


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Re: 40 sedan bridge forum Sceen door

I had my door rescreened. It comes out on the cockpit side so both glass doors must be removed first.
There is a plastic strip in the top frame rail held by 4 screws. remove that and you can then lift out the slider
There is a metal strip held with 5 screws that secures the fixed panel in the right frame rail. There is also two
L brackets one top and one bottom left side
you can now slide the fixed panel left.
Be advised the fixed panel has a guide at he bottom, slide the panel all the way left in the frame and lift it out.
You can now lift out the screen. Removing the fixed panel is a little fumbley but it can be done. Good luck.
Naut too late
 
Today I started phase 2 of my Rub Rail Leak Prevention Program. I removed the lower transom rub rail as its been a source of rain water leaking and water leaking during cruising. Here are some pertinent findings:

- The screws holding the two end caps and the ends of the rub rail after the bend were all bent up. I guess from years of previous owners wacking the dock. This enlarged those screw holes giving a path for water to enter the engine room.

- The cut ends of the rub rail (which are covered by the end caps) are the highest point since the boat is bow high. The end caps acted like funnels channeling the rain water into the rub rail channel at the cut ends. This water just pooled in the rub rail channel and had no where to go except find paths into the engine room (which it did through caulk voids and expanded screw holes). So the rub rail channel essentially became a big pool of standing water.

- The screws holding the stainless insert are long enough to reach the open space in the rub rail channel. All those screws were rusting and had large rust stains on the inside of the rub rail where the screw poked through it. This rusting created standing rusty water when the boat sat after rains for periods of time. When I would then take the boat for an outing, that rusty water trapped in the channel would work its way through gaps in the box top caulking, and run into the engine room.

- There are several places on the underside box top caulking where the caulk is gone leaving openings for water to enter the engine room. I am going to dig out as much caulk as I can and re-caulk.

- Stainless steel (screws and end caps) eventually will rust in a salt water environment, in case anyone was wondering. I have visual proof. I plan to replace every single screw I removed with a new one.

- The top half of the box top is screwed into the bottom half with screws every 6 inches, underneath the rub rail (just an information point)

I have pictures but its mostly just rusty bent up screws, a bunch of gunk and rust stains on the rub rail and/or on the part of the transom the rub rail covers, and moldy crappy caulk on the underside.

Update: I completed putting it all back together. Changes I made where I drilled three drain holes in the bottom of the rub rail. One in the center and one each at the outer ends of the transom. I also plugged the rub rail channel opening at the cut ends so no water could enter there and fill up the channel. And finally, I caulked the top of the rub rail.
 
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mjmason1 said:
Does anybody have an idea where I can get the gelcoat that matches my boat?
Click to expand...
Mike, I went through this at the beginning of the year and got this from Sea Ray:

Your deck was gel coated with armorcote ( 951WF044 ) it has a UV protectantin the gel
driver

your hull was gel coated with ( 944WF044 )
driver



And then when I passed that on to Spectrum, I got this: "The Sea ray part number of 665885 crosses to our Spectrum part number A551470k Sea Ray Artic White 94-03. This part number is for the 2 oz patch paste kit."
 
Did my winterization today. It's not a simple procedure. Lets start with the oil change. I have a nice built in electric pump. After warming up the oil it worked great. Drained both engines and genny in minutes. Adding oil became a different story. The pump started popping the breaker then melted some wires and died all together. After finding an oil pump we got that done. Next came the impellers. Oh boy that was fun. After laying on the port engine upside down, dropped the impeller key somewhere under the engine. 20 minutes later found the key. On to the genny. The water pump is behind the genny against the fresh water tank. The only option was to remove the 4 bolts holding the bracket and slide the genny forward. Still had to fight to get at the impeller. Finally done. Can't wait until next year. For anyone interested this company sells 30 and 40 weight Rotella with no tax or shipping. The price per 5 gal bucket is $73.07. www.KellerHeartt.com They saved me a lot of money.
 
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