40 sedan bridge forum

[dtfeld]

Done. Pictures with and without decor. Biggest takeaway for me is how soft the new vinyl is compared to the dried out hard 20 year old stuff.

I’ll be gone from here for a while now. Might be back. Might not. Really there is nothing more for me to contribute. Everything I’ve learned is all documented in this thread, 6CTA thread and a few Westerbeke and Systems Monitor threads here and there.

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NICE Work!!

 

[my3sons]

Looks great Bill!
Don’t be a stranger.

 

[scooper321]

Done. Pictures with and without decor. Biggest takeaway for me is how soft the new vinyl is compared to the dried out hard 20 year old stuff.

I’ll be gone from here for a while now. Might be back. Might not. Really there is nothing more for me to contribute. Everything I’ve learned is all documented in this thread, 6CTA thread and a few Westerbeke and Systems Monitor threads here and there.

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Fantastic job. But please don’t leave. Searching these forums stinks so it’s easier to ask (you) questions again! Lol.
Plus I need a way to contact you - when I ultimately get to the Charleston area on vaca, I’ll want to reach out and buy you a beer!

 

[ZZ13]

Fantastic job. But please don’t leave. Searching these forums stinks so it’s easier to ask (you) questions again! Lol.
Plus I need a way to contact you - when I ultimately get to the Charleston area on vaca, I’ll want to reach out and buy you a beer!

I’ll still have an active account. PM me if anyone wants to contact me. Just going on a social media sabbatical for a while. I did that with sports (I used to be a sports junkie) for the last two months and loved how it has affected my attitude and improved positive focus.

 

[Drafter]

Pulled the boat Saturday for a fresh bottom with soda blast and barrier coat. I'm "probably" going to have to replace my port shaft. I figured my prop was tweaked a bit given some vibration, and it may be. Already have "new" refinshed props to install, and will keep the stockers for spares. The marina manager felt like it had a tight spot in the cutlass bearing (also getting replaced), which lends to a bent shaft. Not sure how easy it might be to straighten one locally, and would likely be worth sending off to have done by a shop that specializes in that. Or....just buy a new one. Not sure that I want to trust a local machine shop to do it with the cost involved in getting it to that point. I want it right the first time. Would appreciate anyone advice on this, and if you did buy a new one, maybe where from? Already reached out to Flounder Pounder.

 

[BEH]

To test for a bent shaft a “run out” should be performed with a dial gauge, not just feeling a tight spot.
When I had my 30 Sea Ray it was performed every time the boat was pulled for winter storage.
A very simple test.

 

[Drafter]

To test for a bent shaft a “run out” should be performed with a dial gauge, not just feeling a tight spot.
When I had my 30 Sea Ray it was performed every time the boat was pulled for winter storage.
A very simple test.

Thanks. Did that the last time it was hauled a 2 years ago. Showed it to be about 1/16" out of true, which was in spec for some shaft builders over the 93" length. It's got more wobble in it than that, so put my efforts into nice balanced props which are also being installed. Marina manager just brought up the tight spot during the haulout the other day. Of course we're doing cutlass bearings while it's out this time too, which seemed tight and fine even though they are 25 year old originals. They'll figure it out. Have Skipper Buds in Chicago sourcing me a shaft this morning just in case.

 

[ZZ13]

Thanks. Did that the last time it was hauled a 2 years ago. Showed it to be about 1/16" out of true, which was in spec for some shaft builders over the 93" length. It's got more wobble in it than that, so put my efforts into nice balanced props which are also being installed. Marina manager just brought up the tight spot during the haulout the other day. Of course we're doing cutlass bearings while it's out this time too, which seemed tight and fine even though they are 25 year old originals. They'll figure it out. Have Skipper Buds in Chicago sourcing me a shaft this morning just in case.

1/16 is pretty far off. That’s .063. Yard told me our spec is .004. I was at .010 and there was a noticeable visual wobble in the shaft seal. After aligning engine I got it to .001 and smooth as silk. No visual wobble.

Now, the real reason for this post is now that the bridge is refurbished, I started replacing the boat’s worn and overstretched 22 year old interior Ultraleather with a heavy woven fabric that the cats claws won’t tear up. Here is my first cushion. First time I’ve sewed fabric. A lot different than sewing vinyl. I learned three valuable lessons and had to do a bunch of rework after that learning, to get it right.

 

[scooper321]

I learned three valuable lessons and had to do a bunch of rework after that learning, to get it right.

seriously? You’re going to leave it right there?

 

[ZZ13]

seriously? You’re going to leave it right there?

Well, ok then.

1. Liberally use relief cuts so fabric will lengthen around curves. Otherwise you’ll get lots of gathering along the curve. Vinyl just stretches to make those curves

2. Make sure both panels being sewed together are relaxed and neither is pulled tight. Otherwise gathering again along the stitch line when they pull back.

3. Make templates from scratch to determine the panel sizes. If you dissemble the old material and cut to those exact sizes, everything will be too big and baggy. I did it that way at first and the big seat panel ended up an inch and a half too wide.

 

[Steve S]

Well, ok then.

1. Liberally use relief cuts so fabric will lengthen around curves. Otherwise you’ll get lots of gathering along the curve. Vinyl just stretches to make those curves

2. Make sure both panels being sewed together are relaxed and neither is pulled tight. Otherwise gathering again along the stitch line when they pull back.

3. Make templates from scratch to determine the panel sizes. If you dissemble the old material and cut to those exact sizes, everything will be too big and baggy. I did it that way at first and the big seat panel ended up an inch and a half too wide.

Want to do a second set for another 400DB??? ;-)

 

[atrick]

Got a 98 400 Sedan Bridge with 3116 cats and need to know what brand the throttle controls are and if anyone has any info on them as far as adjusting to eliminate excess free play. There no name on the outside but might be one inside somewhere but would rather have info on them before I start getting inside of them.

 

[Pgeee]

Got a 98 400 Sedan Bridge with 3116 cats and need to know what brand the throttle controls are and if anyone has any info on them as far as adjusting to eliminate excess free play. There no name on the outside but might be one inside somewhere but would rather have info on them before I start getting inside of them.

would still be teleflex a 1998 I reckon see attached. Make sure to adjust the correct screws for your issue. At the other end the Governor on the engine is a different story. I would not touch it for your issue

 

[atrick]

The starboard has about 1" of play need to do something

 

[Pgeee]

If you search this thread I have asked the same question but not found the answer. I am thinking of adding a hatch under the transom shower hatch or behind the cockpit seat. I think this is a huge safety issue as regular steering inspections and maintenance is impossible. The only known way to get to the ram and gear as I understand is remove the generator then remove the water tank.
Let us know if you find a better way.

i recall seeing a story of someone drilling the lazarette floor with a pilot hole to see if there was a way in . it was a fail, if I recall correctly. I think I read that you can get there without removing the water tank, just the genny (rotate it only needed). then you need to crawl or know someone who can. You can certainly see the ram if you peer in there. It would be a different boat risk wise if you find a way to make it not so almost impossible, look forward to your posts

 

[Njlarry]

My water tank is much wider than the genny so looks like the water tank is the major blockage while the genny blocks moving the tank. Have to repair the rot in the floor of the trunk this spring might find access then.

 

[Pgeee]

My water tank is much wider than the genny so looks like the water tank is the major blockage while the genny blocks moving the tank. Have to repair the rot in the floor of the trunk this spring might find access then.

Actually when I looked today mine is the same, the ram is indeed behind the starboard section of the water tank. I can see it clearly but getting in there would be seriously Houdini like

 

[Pgeee]

I think I have a leaking hot water tank, Atwood , looks like rust at the base of the unit along the seam . Now yes I will replace it but for next couple of months I hope to get away with a dribble going into the bilge. It’s a worry that there’s no way to quickly cut off the water feed were things to get worse but surely as the leak only just started I have some lead time. Anyone else who had the same dilemma ?

 

[scooper321]

I think I have a leaking hot water tank, Atwood , looks like rust at the base of the unit along the seam . Now yes I will replace it but for next couple of months I hope to get away with a dribble going into the bilge. It’s a worry that there’s no way to quickly cut off the water feed were things to get worse but surely as the leak only just started I have some lead time. Anyone else who had the same dilemma ?

Many of us bypass the hot water heater when winterizing. That takes the heater out of the circuit and makes all pipes cold water. You could do that in the interim until you fix the heater. You wouldn’t have hot but you wouldn’t risk draining your fresh water tank into the bilge. Or, you could install a valve on the cold water IN to the heater and turn it off.

 

[ggiametta]

Done. Pictures with and without decor. Biggest takeaway for me is how soft the new vinyl is compared to the dried out hard 20 year old stuff.

I’ll be gone from here for a while now. Might be back. Might not. Really there is nothing more for me to contribute. Everything I’ve learned is all documented in this thread, 6CTA thread and a few Westerbeke and Systems Monitor threads here and there.

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PLEASE DONT GO TOO FAR! ENJOY!