40 sedan bridge forum

Thanks Bill.

I have studied the performance curves for these engines on boatdiesel.com. I am trying to see what speed I should expect at cruise and WOT.

There is some discussion about this starting with post #23 in this thread.

At my sea trial we hit just over 28 kts at WOT of about 2650. At 2250 cruise we were in the 23-24 kt range. I generally cruise now at 2100rpm because I think I am saving gobs of fuel doing that (ha- probably not) and see the low 20s there.
 
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It's the drain tube to the side engine room air vents (at least in my 03).

And on my '04 as well, thank you SR for that info once before. Those tubes are the only source of water in my bilges, so I Had to come to terms with the fact that this boat was going to have a little water in the rear most bilge area from those tubes. To make things a little cleaner and drier, I added a length of 5/8" tubing to each hose, and then ran them through the limber holes in the two stringers on each side that the water used to accumulate behind before eventually finding it's way to the sump area under the gen set. The hoses terminate right at the bilge. Now there is no more water lying on the outboard side of those stingers waiting for the boat to move to help it find it's way to the pumps.
 
Same here. I painstakingly found and solved every existing leak when I bought my boat. Failed fresh water fittings, loose rudder packing, shower sump screw holes, etc. only to find I could do nothing about rain out of those two darn hoses.

That's a great idea you have to continue the hoses it to the pump area. I think I'll copy that. Thanks.
 
I did something similar. I also keep a "bucket head" shop vac and a home depot bucket onboard. I vacuum the aft sump area anytime I see water, but, I am in a covered slip so I do not have to battle rain water. The only other way I have found water in the bilge was from the transom locker on the swim platform. Mine is not sealed, but again, covered slip makes my life better.
 
This sounds like an off the wall question, but does anybody have an engine noise coming from the throttles themselves? I have a noise that increases with engine speed. I've taken the cover off and have engine sounds traveling up through the throttle cables.

Anybody else have this going on?
 
No, definitely do not have throttle noise, but there is the click or beep of the shifters when going in and out of gear, they are electric and the noise is normal.
 
I have a noise through the throttle cable. It has been that way since new. I was told by the Cummins tech, he has no way to fix the issue (that was 11 years ago). Mine does not increase (sound wise) with the throttles advancing that I have noticed. It has to do with where the cable connects to the mount on the engine from what I can tell.
 
Can anybody tell me (off the top of your head) what GPH size the Rule shower sump pump is?

I'm looking to de-scale the AC units and want to size the pump the same. My thinking is to keep it on-board as a spare, should the sump ever crap out.
 
Can anybody tell me (off the top of your head) what GPH size the Rule shower sump pump is?

I'm looking to de-scale the AC units and want to size the pump the same. My thinking is to keep it on-board as a spare, should the sump ever crap out.

I'll be at the boat in an hour if you don't get an answer by then.

What do you mean by de-scale and what part are you doing that to?
 
Good morning...Was wondering if you guys could chime in on an Air conditioning question.

I was reading in my features list that my 1999 400DB has 28000BTU. In any air conditioning calculation that seems to be more than sufficient. The problem is that I can cool the place down to a nice level but the AC units NEVER shut off. Keep in mind I am in Florida and its hot as hell, but is this normal. Also I have no blinds up but all my windows are LIMO tinted. I had them service about a year ago and a month ago I flushed the lines with barnacle buster and compressed air.

So my question is, do I have something wrong or is this typical?

Sun shade being fabricated for the front windshield as we speak.

 
We have two units. 16000btu for the salon/galley and 12000btu for the two. staterooms. I am in southern coastal SC. During the summer I am set at 78 degrees and the salon unit pretty much runs non stop during the day. The stateroom unit is cycled off much more. The windshield is a huge source of heat. I have the black mesh sunscreen and I can still feel the heat there when I sit at the dinette. I plan to either get film on the windshield or get a white solid windshield cover one day.

That said, I am very comfortable at 78 on the salon area and the units keep the humidity level inside in the 30-40 percent range. Very crisp and dry.

So, seems everything is normal on your boat.
 
It's 1100gph, Paul.

Appreciate it Bill.

What do you mean by de-scale and what part are you doing that to?

I've noticed that my AC water flow has weakened. I've been through the typical strainer maintenance. I also flushing the lines with a garden hose. It has improved, but still not the same as it was earlier in the season.

Searching on this site and others, I came across running a mild acid through the sea water circuit to clear up any marine growth.

It seems like a fairly simple process.
1) Disconnect the hoses from the circulator pump and plumb that to the spare bilge pump (running out of a 5 gal pail).
2) Add a section of hose from the thru-hull fitting back to the pail. If I cant secure the hose, I'll end up attaching direct to the output of the AC Heat exchanger
3) Let the solution circulate for 5 min and shut down
4) Sit idle for 15 min
5) Drink beer
6) repeat step 3 through 5 as necessary
7) Hook it all back up and flush clean

I'll update this thread with the before and after results.
 
Ok perfect then I will be sure to have that cover put on ASAP. Doing the limo tint and removing all the old window coverings sure modernized that boat. Noone see's in and I see everything outside.

We have two units. 16000btu for the salon/galley and 12000btu for the two. staterooms. I am in southern coastal SC. During the summer I am set at 78 degrees and the salon unit pretty much runs non stop during the day. The stateroom unit is cycled off much more. The windshield is a huge source of heat. I have the black mesh sunscreen and I can still feel the heat there when I sit at the dinette. I plan to either get film on the windshield or get a white solid windshield cover one day.

That said, I am very comfortable at 78 on the salon area and the units keep the humidity level inside in the 30-40 percent range. Very crisp and dry.

So, seems everything is normal on your boat.
 
On your units running all the time, is it the compressor and the fan or just the fan running? The air units have a constant run setting which I believe is the defaut in the unit's program. You can get into the program mode and change the fan setting if you need to.

We have several 400DB's in NW Florida.......just about as hot as south Florida in the summer........and all of their air conditioners do cycle on and off, but the duty cycle runs pretty high in Aug-Sept.

One other thought is that if you still have your original air conditioners, the compressors are the old style piston type compressors. They lose efficiency as they age and wear, so their duty cycle gradually increases to the point where they run all the time. A "loose" compressor usually makes all kinds of noise before it fails. Have you noticed more noise than usual lately?
 
Mine are the factory installed 2001 units. I have the fan set to run all the time which I want. The compressor in the salon is probably on 70% of the time when the sun is shining and it's 90+ degrees outside. Can't tell about any sound change as this is my first summer with the boat. Thanks for that info. I'll listen for it. I figure 14 year old units won't last much longer.

Hey MM, how did my grammar grade out on this post?
 

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