40 sedan bridge forum

Gregl said:
Scooper, thanks for the name. I did see your bridge and it looked great. Especially where you came back farther to the aft. We may do a hard top next year. We are up in Hopkins creek where your boat was. Also, did you find your clips for the curtains at Recmar? Greg
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Read through this thread. I think there was a discussion on how involved it was to add a hard tip, the pros and cons, etc. Good info.

So you knew my boat as Back Nine, huh? The Brady’s are good people. We still keep in touch.

I found those clips, thanks. Didn’t get them yet because we are still trying to figure out exactly what we want to do about curtains and the slider. So no, I haven’t measured and confirmed exactly what we need. Working on some electronics tweaking and adding a second subwoofer right now.
 
scooper321 said:
Read through this thread. I think there was a discussion on how involved it was to add a hard tip, the pros and cons, etc. Good info.

So you knew my boat as Back Nine, huh? The Brady’s are good people. We still keep in touch.

I found those clips, thanks. Didn’t get them yet because we are still trying to figure out exactly what we want to do about curtains and the slider. So no, I haven’t measured and confirmed exactly what we need. Working on some electronics tweaking and adding a second subwoofer right now.
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Thanks, I will take a look. Greg
 
Question for the collective braintrust; We are about to replace the salon carpet as it is pretty worn. The idea of a teak floor with a generator underneath it (Florida Boat) isn't very appealing.

With that in mind how do you remove the carpeted trim pieces around the counter, bar cabinet and booth step? (picture attached)
carpet question.png
 
Tom Coombs said:
Question for the collective braintrust; We are about to replace the salon carpet as it is pretty worn. The idea of a teak floor with a generator underneath it (Florida Boat) isn't very appealing.

With that in mind how do you remove the carpeted trim pieces around the counter, bar cabinet and booth step? (picture attached)View attachment 85713
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Tom, there are screws within the carpet. You have to spread the carpet open and look for the screw heads. It's a PIA. Greg
 
So back in April, I posted about some engine troubles we were having. We finally got the head off on Monday and discovered where we had a complete lack of compression on #6 of one of our Cat 3126 (1475 hours). It has developed a 3/4" crack from the exhaust port, resulting in a valve seating failure. No evidence of water intrusion or damage to the cylinder walls. Couple little marks on top of the piston, but nothing to get excited about.

I suspect this issue has been under development for a while, probably even since before we bought the boat last year.

IMG_5852.jpeg

While we are at it, we are having the injectors serviced and the turbo rebuilt as it was also ready to be replaced.

At least now, we can start to put things back together...
 
Spent all day on the boat Saturday, and on my way into the marina my generator let loose with a huge cloud of smoke. The back end (generator) decided after 20 years and 700 hours it was time to die.

Contacted Broward Armature and they quoted $2600 to rebuild the back end to better than new, so on Monday I proceeded to split the back from the engine.

5 hours later I finally got the back end to come off, and it was a real pain. Corrosion everywhere. The aluminum castings westerbeke uses are not the best material, and it shows. Next was removing the armature. Westerbeke in all their wisdom chose to press an aluminum casting against a steel part on the engine to hold the armature on. For those not aware, this is not smart due to a process called "dissimilar corrosion". The aluminum part is not a part of the steel, and could not be broke loose.

So, on to the next stage. I am having a Phasar 7.0PMG diesel generator installed. Much more compact, bullet proof Kubota engine. The back end is a Permanent Magnet Generator. Plus this generator runs at 1800 rpm versus 3600 of the gas westerbeke.

My boat is a gas (8.1) boat, so we are mounting a separate diesel fuel tank to supply the genset. This finally gets rid of the CO2 problem of the genset. Plus I'm looking forward to the quieter and more reliable Phasar.

My experience has been Westerbeke is a "throw away" generator. The engine side is quite reliable (Mitsubishi) but westerbeke uses really inferior parts for the back side. That, and westerbeke is very predatory on parts pricing.
 
CaptRonn said:
Spent all day on the boat Saturday, and on my way into the marina my generator let loose with a huge cloud of smoke. The back end (generator) decided after 20 years and 700 hours it was time to die.

Contacted Broward Armature and they quoted $2600 to rebuild the back end to better than new, so on Monday I proceeded to split the back from the engine.

5 hours later I finally got the back end to come off, and it was a real pain. Corrosion everywhere. The aluminum castings westerbeke uses are not the best material, and it shows. Next was removing the armature. Westerbeke in all their wisdom chose to press an aluminum casting against a steel part on the engine to hold the armature on. For those not aware, this is not smart due to a process called "dissimilar corrosion". The aluminum part is not a part of the steel, and could not be broke loose.

So, on to the next stage. I am having a Phasar 7.0PMG diesel generator installed. Much more compact, bullet proof Kubota engine. The back end is a Permanent Magnet Generator. Plus this generator runs at 1800 rpm versus 3600 of the gas westerbeke.

My boat is a gas (8.1) boat, so we are mounting a separate diesel fuel tank to supply the genset. This finally gets rid of the CO2 problem of the genset. Plus I'm looking forward to the quieter and more reliable Phasar.

My experience has been Westerbeke is a "throw away" generator. The engine side is quite reliable (Mitsubishi) but westerbeke uses really inferior parts for the back side. That, and westerbeke is very predatory on parts pricing.
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Putting a diesel generator in with gasoline engines and fuel systems. Assure it is their ignition protected model.
 
Port Scupper in cockpit: I believe this was discussed by CaptRonn in previous posts. I was wondering if anyone has installed a scupper on the portside of their boat. My boat came with the one scupper configuration (1999). Thanks.
 
DavidBukstel said:
Port Scupper in cockpit: I believe this was discussed by CaptRonn in previous posts. I was wondering if anyone has installed a scupper on the portside of their boat. My boat came with the one scupper configuration (1999). Thanks.
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Just did mine a couple of weeks ago. I purchased a Forespar 906037, 1-1/2 Flush T-Hull W/Screw 254 for the drain, then I plumbed it into the line that goes from the hatch drain to the thruhull.
 
Thanks CaptRonn! I’m going to do the same thing. Did you use 5200 to attach the drain top to the deck? Thank you again!
 
Does anyone know where actual radio unit is for the Raymarine 240 VHF? I looked in the starboard side glove box and didn’t see it. I want to check connections before I break out boat dollars to replace it.
 
DavidBukstel said:
Thanks CaptRonn! I’m going to do the same thing. Did you use 5200 to attach the drain top to the deck? Thank you again!
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The drain has a threaded nut. Once the hole is made, then you will use 5200 to secure and seal it in place. The nut will be screwed on the back side and tightened down
 

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CaptRonn said:
The drain has a threaded nut. Once the hole is made, then you will use 5200 to secure and seal it in place. The nut will be screwed on the back side and tightened down
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Is 5200 necessary for this job? This isn’t below the water line. And what if you ever wanted to get in there? Say, to clean it out. Wouldn’t 4200 work as well for this?
 
scooper321 said:
Is 5200 necessary for this job? This isn’t below the water line. And what if you ever wanted to get in there? Say, to clean it out. Wouldn’t 4200 work as well for this?
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It could. Your choice.

The 5200/4200 is to fill the void area and keep water out. There is a substrate of plywood under the fiberglass. If moisture gets to the plywood we know what comes next.

No need to remove it to clean it out. It’s t’ed into the overboard drain line from the hatch scupper. Worse case scenario is to disconnect the T.

Since I chose not to have to remove the drain, I used 5200. The maralon the drain is made of is very stout and will outlast me.
 
CaptRonn said:
It could. Your choice.

The 5200/4200 is to fill the void area and keep water out. There is a substrate of plywood under the fiberglass. If moisture gets to the plywood we know what comes next.

No need to remove it to clean it out. It’s t’ed into the overboard drain line from the hatch scupper. Worse case scenario is to disconnect the T.

Since I chose not to have to remove the drain, I used 5200. The maralon the drain is made of is very stout and will outlast me.
Click to expand...

That makes sense! Thanks!
 
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