390 Express electrical problem

Yea, I think you could be right Tobnpr, hey I got the new one allready, ordered it early Wednesday morning and had it 3pm Friday, that's what I call fast shipping, ground ups no less. It was ANTOnline where I bought it. Now I can breath and use my port side outlets, Thanks for the help all! Next I'm replacing the windless solinoids with automotive one's (ford) we'll see how long they last, I think they were only about $15 each.. (bought em last year, just never go around to it) And it's raining in my anchor locker I see.. hmm
 
Re: 390 Express electrical problem: Update

Last night I was sitting here, actually reading on CSR, when suddenly the main breaker on circuit 1 popped (I only have one shore power cable hooked up at a time). So I turn everything off, reset the #1 main breaker, then no matter which accessory breaker I turned on, #1 main breaker would pop instantly. So I lookup breakers on CSR, open up main panel to look for lose or burning wires and see or smell nothing obvious, so I move the shore power cable to #2, and switch inside to circuit #2 and was able to run the fridge and the port side outlets without popping the breaker, but there was no power to circuit 1 which includes the battery charger. So now it's morning and I switched back to #1 and all is working again. This is a little un-nerving considering I live here in the summer and don't really want to fry in my sleep. I'm picking up another smoke detector just in case, but I'd really like to figure out what's going on. If anyone has an idea about what might be causing this, I would really, really appreciate the help (I still slept like a baby on this thing last night, absolute silence without the power vent or radio, just bubbles rolling up the sides, or fish, or turtles). Thanks, Dan
 
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Re: 390 Express electrical problem: Update

dantheman said:
Last night I was sitting here, actually reading on CSR, when suddenly the main breaker on circuit 1 popped (I only have one shore power cable hooked up at a time). So I turn everything off, reset the #1 main breaker, then no matter which accessory breaker I turned on, #1 main breaker would pop instantly. So I lookup breakers on CSR, open up main panel to look for lose or burning wires and see or smell nothing obvious, so I move the shore power cable to #2, and switch inside to circuit #2 and was able to run the fridge and the port side outlets without popping the breaker, but there was no power to circuit 1 which includes the battery charger. So now it's morning and I switched back to #1 and all is working again. This is a little un-nerving considering I live here in the summer and don't really want to fry in my sleep. I'm picking up another smoke detector just in case, but I'd really like to figure out what's going on. If anyone has an idea about what might be causing this, I would really, really appreciate the help (I still slept like a baby on this thing last night, absolute silence without the power vent or radio, just bubbles rolling up the sides, or fish, or turtles, you never know what's in the water). Thanks, Dan
Click to expand...

When you have your one power cord plugged in, where is your selector switch positioned? 1 or 1&2?
 
with the shore power plugged into outlet 1 outside, and inside on position 1, it powers both the 1 and 2 column of breakers, but if I switch the inside switch to 1&2, only the 1 side gets power. when I plug the shore power cable into outlet 2 (outside), only #2 side gets power, regardless of switch position. (assuming that the forward outside outlet is #1)
 
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dantheman said:
with the shore power plugged into outlet 1 outside, and inside on position 1, it powers both the 1 and 2 column of breakers, but if I switch the inside switch to 1&2, only the 1 side gets power. when I plug the shore power cable into outlet 2 (outside), only #2 side gets power, regardless of switch position. (assuming that the forward outside outlet is #1)
Click to expand...

It sounds like everything is operating AOK to me. Just know that when you are operating on one cord and both banks of breakers are energized, you will have to manage your power loads much more carefully. I take it that you do not have two 30 amp supply sources or you would have both cords in use. Do you have a 50 amp supply where you can use a 50 amp "Y" down to two 30 amp cords?.
 
Only one thirty amp service here that I can use, it seems like once a year it has a little hiccup, and the power goes wanky.. Thanks. Dan
 
Hey guys can I jump in?
my 79 has aa button on the ac/dc panel that say power vent. I hit the button nothing happens?
from reading the tread you guys r saying that there is a blower motor to circulate the air in the head????

thanks
Saverio
 
Saverio said:
Hey guys can I jump in?
my 79 has aa button on the ac/dc panel that say power vent. I hit the button nothing happens?
from reading the tread you guys r saying that there is a blower motor to circulate the air in the head????

thanks
Saverio
Click to expand...

'79 is too old for me. Sorry, but I don't understand what an "aa" button is.

~Ken
 
Saverio said:
Hey guys can I jump in?
my 79 has aa button on the ac/dc panel that say power vent. I hit the button nothing happens?
from reading the tread you guys r saying that there is a blower motor to circulate the air in the head????

thanks
Saverio
Click to expand...

If you have a "button" on the main panel, you should also have a lever switch in the head and/or galley :wink:
 
I have a black circular grill in the head that goes to engine compartment. no button or switch.
I'll take a pic of the panel
 
Saverio said:
Hey guys can I jump in?
my 79 has aa button on the ac/dc panel that say power vent. I hit the button nothing happens?
from reading the tread you guys r saying that there is a blower motor to circulate the air in the head????

thanks
Saverio
Click to expand...

We have a "powere vent" breaker on our DC panel that sends 12 volts to 2 power vents on our boat. One is in the galley and the other one is in the head. They are two separate extractor blowers that clear the stale/humid air from those areas of the boat and have individual on/off switches. Perhaps your vent motor is fried and requires replacement. Check to ensure that 12 volts is leaving the DC panel breaker and the on/off switch. The rest should be elementary if you know the location of your power vent motor.

good luck, Ken
 
Ken

I followed the the black hose from the bathroom and it just goes to the engine bay i didnt see a blower?
maybe it was removed in the past?
I already had to replace the rear blowers they were all sized and fuses blown.

Thanks Saverio
 
I solved one of the electical problems on my boat yesterday.. Two days ago i lost all electrical power except the generator, everytime i turned anything on while on shore power, the breaker would trip. i had this problem before but it suddenly corrected itself, but still, whenever i ran the little space heater and coffee pot on the same outlet it would pop the breaker. Come to findout, it was the receptical on the dock going bad. When you got no 110, life ain't good on the Genesee.. just thought I'd share that tidbit, electrial problems are one of the worst (i think). now the coffee pot and heater are getting along.
 
dantheman said:
I solved one of the electrical problems on my boat yesterday.. Two days ago i lost all electrical power except the generator, every time i turned anything on while on shore power, the breaker would trip. i had this problem before but it suddenly corrected itself, but still, whenever i ran the little space heater and coffee pot on the same outlet it would pop the breaker. Come to find out, it was the receptacle on the dock going bad. When you got no 110, life ain't good on the Genesee.. just thought I'd share that tidbit, electrical problems are one of the worst (i think). now the coffee pot and heater are getting along.
Click to expand...

I find it amazing that you can operate your heater & coffee maker at the same time on the same receptacle. What is the individual wattage of these appliances? You really shouldn't load any breaker to more than 80% of it's rating. (15 amps x 80% x 120 volts = 1,440 watts)
 
the heater is rated at 1500w but I've never seen it draw more than 12 amps on the boat gauge, the coffee pot has no tag on it, but it doesn't even move the amp gauge on the boat, I dunno, i have to run to work, sorry for the short answer
 
I was just checking the amp draw again, when I test the coffee pot alone, it appears to draw nothing, the heater alone draws 12, but when I run them both at the same time on one recepticle they draw 16. put the coffee pot on the stbd outlet and the heater on the port, and I only see 12 amps being drawn on the port circuit and zero on the stbd. I'll keep them on separate circuits tho. I was looking up the amp rating in the Sea Ray manual and I don't see where they specify the amp ratings on the breakers. The rear air conditioner starts out a 12 amps when I turn it on, then I think it climbs up to around 18 after it's been running, but not absolutely sure about it climbing. Then I was reading about the converter, and the book says you should keep a 12 volt light on at all times to prevent damage to the batteries. does anyone ever do that?
 
dantheman said:
I was just checking the amp draw again, when I test the coffee pot alone, it appears to draw nothing, the heater alone draws 12, but when I run them both at the same time on one receptacle they draw 16. put the coffee pot on the stbd outlet and the heater on the port, and I only see 12 amps being drawn on the port circuit and zero on the stbd. I'll keep them on separate circuits tho. I was looking up the amp rating in the Sea Ray manual and I don't see where they specify the amp ratings on the breakers. The rear air conditioner starts out a 12 amps when I turn it on, then I think it climbs up to around 18 after it's been running, but not absolutely sure about it climbing. Then I was reading about the converter, and the book says you should keep a 12 volt light on at all times to prevent damage to the batteries. does anyone ever do that?
Click to expand...

The port & stb receptacles are protected by two separate breakers. 1500 watts / 120 volts = 12.5 amps. If your voltage is 125, then your current draw will drop to 12.0 amps. You should have 2 separate A.C. amp-meters on your panel. Shore 1 & Shore 2. One of the meters is reading 12 amps and the other meter will tell you what the coffee pot is drawing. (provided that you have all of the other breakers turned off)

~Ken
 
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