340SDA Split Wiring for forward V-Berth Reading lights and Closet Lights

Discussion in 'Modifications/Customizations' started by KevinC, Aug 13, 2019.

  1. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Recently we had a discussion on the 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer (SDA) forum regarding the forward lights. Our boats were wired up with a switch forward of the starboard closet to control these lights. Unfortunately on my boat (and apparently others) this switch controlled both the reading lights on the forward bulkhead as well as those atop the closets. We discussed that it would be nice to be able to just have the reading lights on at night without the closet lights but based on how things were wired this is not possible.

    After reviewing the owners manual wiring diagrams I noted that it looked like the forward reading lights should have been bridged to the power supplies on the blue/red feed:
    0 - Wiring Diagram.jpg

    However it was not wired that way. This is what I have (both lights bridged and switched on a single pole):
    1 - Original Wiring.jpg
     
  2. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    While I could have simply bridged the power to the forward lights and allowed them to be controlled by their individual switches I decided to take a different approach. I wanted to be able to turn both on or just leave the forward lights on to be controlled by their switch.

    To do this I used a DPDT (Double Pole - Double Throw) Carling Switch to replace the SPST (Single Pole - Single Throw) Switch.

    To do this I first had to remove the old switch and bridge the power to both sides of the new switch (each side operates like its own switch - this is the double throw function)

    2 - Power to both sides.jpg
     
  3. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Then I split the connected wires and added a terminal to the closet lights branch and connected it to one side of the switch (the top and bottom terminal at the two poles for the up and down switch function).

    3 - Power to Closet Lights.jpg
     
  4. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Then I created a jumper from the reading lights so that I could attach it to both the up and down controls. To do this I took a short loop of wire and added a terminal to it. Then this small loop was joined with the wire controlling the reading lights and I connected them in another terminal. These terminal were connect to both the top and the bottom of the switch. This will allow the reading lights to be on in either switch position.

    4 - Power to Forward Reading Lights.jpg
     
  5. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Then I tested and reassembled the switch and the panel and screwed back into the wall. Now I can have both sets of lights on:
    6 - Forward and Closet Lights.jpg
    ... or just the forward:

    5 - Forward Lights Only.jpg
     
    Craig likes this.
  6. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    So, if you noticed there was one more connection on a separate row on the switch. This is the connection for the LED switch ground. If I want to have this switch lighted I would simple need to connect that to the boats grounding block.

    Thanks for reading and let me know if you have any questions... I hope this helps someone down the road.

    -Kevin
     
    Ezsteps likes this.
  7. Bwardz50

    Bwardz50 New Member

    23
    Jul 3, 2018
    Lutz, FL
    2006 340 Sundancer
    2005 Mastercraft X2
    8.1 Mercruiser Horizons with V-Drives
    MCX 350 Indmar with V-Drive
    Thanks kevin, great write-up as usual. Do you have a link to the switch you bought? Were you able to use you original switch actuator?

    Thanks again,
    Brian
     
  8. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    I used the Blue Sea Systems Contura Switch DPDT Black. Switch positions are: ON-OFF-ON. Part number 8286
    This is a complete Carling Switch and Cover with two LED lights - typically used for nav/anchor wiring on a panel.
    I picked this up on Ebay for under $20 delivered.

    Any DPDT switch should work with this note: It should spec ON-OFF-ON if it specs (ON)-OFF-(ON) then it is a momentary in the on positions. The parenthesis indicate the momentary connection. If it specs ON-ON then there is no OFF position and can work but I wanted the ability to turn off the lights without climbing back up on the bed.

    -Kevin
     
  9. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    One more note on this project: to bridge the two wires in the female spade terminal ends you may need a larger guage terminal for those since there is potentially twice the wire. I used a 16g for the jump and the factory wiring was larger and the schematic spec'd 14g. A 12g-10g terminal should work find (I did twist mine real tight to get it into a 14-16g terminal)

    -Kevin
     
  10. Korkie

    Korkie Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    549
    Feb 2, 2016
    Leonardtown, MD Potomac River / Chesapeake Bay
    340 Sundancer 2006, Garmin 7612, xHD Radome
    Merc 496 Mags
    Bravo III Drives
    I used this one from FP: It has a jumper already on it so no need to make jump wire for power in.

    VJDJ-1Carling ON/OFF/ON double pole rocker switch with jumper and two lamps
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2019
  11. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Ok, how did you wire in the momentary position of the second throw to work the separate lights? Once you let go the lights are off.

    -Kevin
     
  12. Korkie

    Korkie Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    549
    Feb 2, 2016
    Leonardtown, MD Potomac River / Chesapeake Bay
    340 Sundancer 2006, Garmin 7612, xHD Radome
    Merc 496 Mags
    Bravo III Drives
    :oops: Sorry Kevin - my bad - posted wrong switch as I ordered one of the VM4J as well. It is the VJDJ-1Carling ON/OFF/ON double pole rocker switch with jumper and two lamps that I am using for the reading lights.

    Thanks for catching that - I edited my OP.
     
  13. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    No problem. I just did not want someone getting confused.

    -Kevin
     
  14. Ezsteps

    Ezsteps Well-Known Member PLATINUM Sponsor

    859
    Nov 14, 2015
    Lake St. Clair-- Michigan (MacRay Harbor)
    1999 400 Sundancer, YL310 Zodiac
    7.4 Mercuisers Horizons 380 hp ea., 9.9 hp Mercury
    Good job Kevin and a great write up.
     
  15. MacB

    MacB New Member

    9
    Jun 14, 2019
    340 Sundancer 2004
    Merc 8.1S Horizon
    Kevin, Can you confirm for the electrically challenged, that the easier fix you mention at the start is to separate the reading lights wire from the closet lights wire, and rejoin the reading lights wire to the hot wire on the other switch post. Thanks for this really helpful write up!
     
  16. Korkie

    Korkie Active Member SILVER Sponsor

    549
    Feb 2, 2016
    Leonardtown, MD Potomac River / Chesapeake Bay
    340 Sundancer 2006, Garmin 7612, xHD Radome
    Merc 496 Mags
    Bravo III Drives
    MacB. That's right. That was the first suggestion that I had found. But Kevin's dual post is a much better solution. I am changing over to his so as not to have too climb up on bed every time want lights on or off.
     
  17. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Yep, you could simply move one wire to the positive. You will still need to cut wire and crimp unless you cheat with one of those scotchlok crimp connections (which I would not recommend for long term use on a boat).

    The problem is the two light sets were crimped into one terminal so you need to separate them.

    -Kevin
     
  18. MacB

    MacB New Member

    9
    Jun 14, 2019
    340 Sundancer 2004
    Merc 8.1S Horizon
    Great. Thanks!
     
  19. Craig

    Craig Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    553
    Feb 8, 2007
    Maryland
    2006 320 Sundancer
    twin 350 Horizon V drives
    I added a separate switch to my 320 for the reasons described. Couldn't turn everything thing off without killing the master at the steps.
    20180909_103851.jpg
     
  20. techmitch

    techmitch Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    May 1, 2008
    Chesapeake Bay, Middle River/Frog Mortar Creek MD.
    1999 270 DA
    Twin 4.3s W/Alpa I Gen II's
    schotchlok connectors should be banned for use on anything anywhere!!!
     

Share This Page

Show Sidebar