340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Have any of you changed the fuse in the Promatic 30-3 charger?
The red light is on, but batts are at 11.5v. I read here about an internal fuse? Very hard to reach this thing, any tricks?
Bud
 
Last edited:
sporters78 said:
Chris ,
do you have part numbers? Etc?
Click to expand...

Hi Steve,
Unfortunately I only have the local distributor part number but here's the link to that site which might help when you contact Bomar (a division of Pompanette).
http://www.jpwmarine.com.au/product...gle-latch-suits-classic-series-portlight.aspx
Look familiar?
Also they sell the seal by the foot/metre and here's what came back from Bomar;

"While awaiting any photos for verification – the customer is requesting the flipper dogs for the S616, SS portlight. IF that’s the case then you will need the gasket for that series. I am attaching the PDF print. The old style was glued in with the screen, this is no longer available. The new is a sticky back tape system and the screen is injection molded that fits into the grooved section of the gasket.

Bob Touton
btouton@pompanette.com"

I tried to load the data sheet Bomar sent but I keep getting blocked with an "exceeds quota" message for some reason.

Happy to send you any info I have via private email if you like.

Cheers
Chris
 
ChrisW said:
Hi there,
Did you get the gaskets from Bomar or from SeaRay?
I have the same problem and also found that the lower latch on a couple of port holes had rusted through and therefore wasn't putting enough pressure on the window to keep it sealed properly.
Just ordered an new set of latches and gaskets from Bomar.
Chris
Click to expand...

I ordered mine directly from Bomar Chris...very easy to deal with, gave them the Sea Ray part number and that's all they needed. They were about $20.00 each.
 
Hopefully I'm doing this correctly...
Hi all, just took possession (after a really really long process) of a 01 340 Sundancer and if anyone's a boat enthusiast, obsessed with boats, you'll appreciate my first two days. First day was mainly spent admiring my new toy by playing with switches and trying to figure out the cockpit stereo (gotta have tunes on a boat) (switch would come on but no sound and after hours of trying to trace wires I finally found a aftermarket breaker in the engine room and woohoo, cockpit sound). Still didn't find the amps that were producing it though but was able to enjoy some music upstairs. Today made a bold attempt figuring there has to be an amplifier between the power wires and RCA cables so removed the captains map holder and there they were, yup they. Two amps in a nice little cable path (it's about 10-12" deep just in case anyone was wondering what was behind there). Better tunes with a little tweaking and got to scrubbing the decks. Went for a little ride trying to get used to v-drives vs I/O's and its a little tricky but backed her right in on the first try without touching a thing (that was actually my second time backing her in, first was during the test drive and that one took two first tries.) heading back Friday with the fam for the afternoon and then party weekend. Boat isn't at my lake but going to start the transport process next week but figured while its in the water, even though it's much further (about 1:20 vs 30 mins door to door) I'm going to enjoy! Any other boaters on Phoenix lakes?
 
AZ AquaHolic said:
Hopefully I'm doing this correctly...
Hi all, just took possession (after a really really long process) of a 01 340 Sundancer and if anyone's a boat enthusiast, obsessed with boats, you'll appreciate my first two days. First day was mainly spent admiring my new toy by playing with switches and trying to figure out the cockpit stereo (gotta have tunes on a boat) (switch would come on but no sound and after hours of trying to trace wires I finally found a aftermarket breaker in the engine room and woohoo, cockpit sound). Still didn't find the amps that were producing it though but was able to enjoy some music upstairs. Today made a bold attempt figuring there has to be an amplifier between the power wires and RCA cables so removed the captains map holder and there they were, yup they. Two amps in a nice little cable path (it's about 10-12" deep just in case anyone was wondering what was behind there). Better tunes with a little tweaking and got to scrubbing the decks. Went for a little ride trying to get used to v-drives vs I/O's and its a little tricky but backed her right in on the first try without touching a thing (that was actually my second time backing her in, first was during the test drive and that one took two first tries.) heading back Friday with the fam for the afternoon and then party weekend. Boat isn't at my lake but going to start the transport process next week but figured while its in the water, even though it's much further (about 1:20 vs 30 mins door to door) I'm going to enjoy! Any other boaters on Phoenix lakes?
Click to expand...

congrats on the 'new' boat.....we have one just like it except for different engines....we just got ours last November....we REALLY like the boat....lots of good people on the forum with lots of knowledge they are willing to share if you are willing to listen and learn....

cliff
 
Hey az,
have had mine for a month now. Replaced little TV with 24 inch, replaced the antenna. Took her out to newport last weekend, takes some time to get on plane, but smooth ride. Figuring out switches and breakers seems to be the only challenge. One of my Amos runs on each bank of battery, so if I just use star side bank, just one amp plays. Seems everyone here is different. Pulled bed cover off and washed in machine no problem, that was a must.
have fun this week!
bud
 
You are correct Cliff, head unit for cabin an amp for sub and cockpit. I replaced mine last year with JL audio, you'll need a spacer for the radar arch, $30 online from JL, or $10 from Best Buy, and paint them. My son changed our 225 watt amp for a 425 watt...wow!

CliffA said:
i am going to swap out the 4 original Clarion cockpit speakers this WE with Polk Audio DB651 marine speakers....i have used them before and i consider them to be a good mid-grade speaker and are reasonably priced...

i looked at the 340 owner's manual for an electrical schematic of the stereo system but did not find one....

my 'assumption' is the 4 cabin speakers are driven directly off of the Clarion head unit internal amp and the 4 cockpit speakers are driven off of a seperate amp...can anyone confirm this and if this is accurate tell me where the amp for the cockpit speakers is located?...and if you happen to know the specs on the cockpit speaker amp that would be a bonus....

if it matters i do not have the optional subwoofer in the cockpit....

thanks...
cliff
Click to expand...
 
Hi I just bought a 2007 340 DA and need to put in new batteries .
the question, since I'm not at the boat is will 29/31 series batteries fit
in the factory battery trays ??????

Also so this boat come with a soft top option , not sure the benefits of this top
but does any one have the same top with the camper back on it . ???????
thanks Jim
 
Any one have the optional soft top , that has all the polls ? Has anyone
put a camper on this set up



im also going to change exhaust manifolds ! Mine are stock cast iron with the stainless steel
risers . Is the a particular brand that might be better then OE , more proformance oriented ?d
 
Last edited:
All, I just read thru this entire thread and found a lot of great information and thank you to everyone who posted. I am in the process of purchasing a 2001 340 with 7.4 Mag MPI's and during sea trial today the port engine was running 20 degrees hotter that the starboard, any thoughts on why this may be occurring? my automotive experience would start with a thermostat. The surveyor also advised me that the was moisture detected on the bow port side in front of the cockpit and behind the port hole. What is involved in fixing that as should I be concerned as this is the only spot detected on the boat?
 
SWW said:
All, I just read thru this entire thread and found a lot of great information and thank you to everyone who posted. I am in the process of purchasing a 2001 340 with 7.4 Mag MPI's and during sea trial today the port engine was running 20 degrees hotter that the starboard, any thoughts on why this may be occurring? my automotive experience would start with a thermostat. The surveyor also advised me that the was moisture detected on the bow port side in front of the cockpit and behind the port hole. What is involved in fixing that as should I be concerned as this is the only spot detected on the boat?
Click to expand...

Hi SWW,
congrats on your soon to be purchase! I just got my 01 340 and can help on the temp but not the moisture. When they're warmed up, what temperature readings are you getting? Also have you noted the idle temp as well (breaking down where your issue is as it may be the gauge). Mine run at 170 when warmed up if that helps. Could be thermostat but I would check the easy stuff first - gauges, sea strainer, water output through the side exhaust (impellers) Good luck!
 
SWW said:
All, I just read thru this entire thread and found a lot of great information and thank you to everyone who posted. I am in the process of purchasing a 2001 340 with 7.4 Mag MPI's and during sea trial today the port engine was running 20 degrees hotter that the starboard, any thoughts on why this may be occurring? my automotive experience would start with a thermostat. The surveyor also advised me that the was moisture detected on the bow port side in front of the cockpit and behind the port hole. What is involved in fixing that as should I be concerned as this is the only spot detected on the boat?
Click to expand...

Hi,
I have same motors, same temp difference. Try tapping the gauge lightly, mine drops down a little.
The port frame should come out, look for soft spot, dig out, fill with west system. Rebed with sealant.
Great boat so far you will enjoy it.
Bud
 
I want to post new photos but have to delete the old one but there's no delete option
?????? HELP
 
Transmission "issues". Hey gang I am working on bringing the 2001 340 I bought last fall up to speed. Lots of work just to renew and replace. I learned that I am a circus contortionist as I replaced the plugs... I digress. This spring I was checking fluids and the port tranny was FULL and milky in color. After some searching figured out the heat exchanger failed and salt water fill the tranny case together with the tranny fluid. I have now performed 5 flushes of the transmission and replaced the heat exchanger. The transmission fluid is almost clear again. It certainly has the right consistency and I wonder if I ever get rid of the residual moisture...

To the "issue" I have had the boat out since then no problems but last week about 5 minutes after leaving the dock I could not engage the transmission in either forward or reverse. Got her back in her slip (a real show in itself) and the linkage seemed fine, fluid level ok. The next day I started her up and at the dock seemed fine but after about 5 minutes at idle same problem, could no longer engage the tranny. Am I looking at a bad pressure plate or pump? HELP O-you-folk-smarter-than-me:smt021
 
When you state that you can't engage the transmission, do you mean you can't physically move the shift lever, or that you can move the lever, but nothing happens? Either condition can be caused by water ingestion, but they are very different problems.

Dale
 
Hey Dale,

No the lever moves and I went below to make certain I was getting full throw out of the linkage. That's fine but when the engine has been running about 5 minutes when you throw the lever either all forward or all reverse there is no power to the prop.

Carl
 
Carl,

OK, this information is helpful. Now, here's the problem: If your fluid level in the trans is correct, and assuming that your engine coupler is not damaged, and that your shift linkage is making full travel, you have a fluid flow / pressure problem. I would start with an inspection of the transmission filter. Pull it out, and inspect for metal shavings or debris. If it's loaded with metal shavings and debris, then you have your answer - you likely have a damaged transmission. After all, water is not nearly as good a lubricant as transmission fluid.

If the filter is clean, then further diagnostics can be performed - I'd start with a pressure test. You could have a damaged pump. If the transmissions internal pump fails to build pressure, then the trans will never engage, and you'll be stuck in perpetual neutral. Check that filter...........

Dale
 
Dale,

Thanks, I will pull the filter. I would guess the water/ATF sludge that I removed and replaced may have clogged the pump. I will check the filter first, but either way bad pump or damage results in a haul and R&R right? Or is the pump external and replaceable?

Carl
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,248
Messages
1,429,275
Members
61,128
Latest member
greenworld
Back
Top