340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Good morning all...

I found someone yesterday at my yard that shared how they worked my hatch after the batteries were pulled from the boat...

The PO had replaced the cigarette lighter plugs with USB charger plugs. They connected a 12v battery to the wires behind the charger at the helm console to power the hydraulic hatch pump. I also see some DC circuits switched on from within the cabin.

They've raised/lowered the hatch a few times now - once to close the hatch after removing the batteries and again recently as they work to replace my port shaft seal which the survey found leaking.

This is very much like what others here have suggested but I figured, with my luck, I'd cause bigger troubles if I just started poking around myself :)

Now I get to put degreasing/cleaning the engine area back on the list along with some electronics upgrades and the necessary re-wiring during some of the warmer days...

Routing some wires from the cabin up into the cockpit is looking to be more challenging than I thought it would be. I'm sure I'll be back here looking for some more thoughts/advise.

Onward and upwards...
 
If you would go to the back of the fuse/breaker the for the hatch which is just a linear actuator not hydraulic and put a wire on it and attach another wire to the ground bar (using something like what's like in the picture) you would be able to hook a battery to it. The only concern I would have doing this is you need to make sure the battery connections that are disconnected are not touching each other.
 

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dvx216 said:
If you would go to the back of the fuse/breaker the for the hatch which is just a linear actuator not hydraulic and put a wire on it and attach another wire to the ground bar (using something like what's like in the picture) you would be able to hook a battery to it.
Click to expand...

dvx216, I want to make certain I understand...

Do you mean to attach a power connector (like your pictured one) onto the hatch toggle switch located in the helm station? Seems that would be pretty handy to have available when it is needed...

You're a gentleman...
 
JKenny said:
dvx216, I want to make certain I understand...

Do you mean to attach a power connector (like your pictured one) onto the hatch toggle switch located in the helm station? Seems that would be pretty handy to have available when it is needed...

You're a gentleman...
Click to expand...
I would find the breaker in the panel that feeds the hatch switch and put it under the screw that feeds the wire going up to the switch and the ground to the ground bar .
 
I'm trying to run some cables between the cabinet behind the couch in the cabin and the helm and I'm running into some trouble.

I've tried to run a fiberglass rods from the access panel just starboard of the captain's chair forward into the cabin and I'm hitting something that I can't get past about 2-3 feet in. I see, what seems to be, a panel in the starboard storage locker just forward of the aft sleeping area in the cabin (pix attached). It has 2 visible screws - but even after removing them the panel does not want to move. There is no play in it at all and feels like it's still attached in a way I can't see.

Anyone have any experience removing this back wall of the storage locker panel? I think if I can get back there I can finish my cable pulls aft... Any ideas are appreciated.
340DA Aft Cabin Access Panel.jpg
 
JKenny said:
Good morning all...

I found someone yesterday at my yard that shared how they worked my hatch after the batteries were pulled from the boat...

The PO had replaced the cigarette lighter plugs with USB charger plugs. They connected a 12v battery to the wires behind the charger at the helm console to power the hydraulic hatch pump. I also see some DC circuits switched on from within the cabin.

They've raised/lowered the hatch a few times now - once to close the hatch after removing the batteries and again recently as they work to replace my port shaft seal which the survey found leaking.

This is very much like what others here have suggested but I figured, with my luck, I'd cause bigger troubles if I just started poking around myself :)

Now I get to put degreasing/cleaning the engine area back on the list along with some electronics upgrades and the necessary re-wiring during some of the warmer days...

Routing some wires from the cabin up into the cockpit is looking to be more challenging than I thought it would be. I'm sure I'll be back here looking for some more thoughts/advise.

Onward and upwards...
Click to expand...
I am wondering if I should just butt out here, but :), I just looked at the manual of your boat and mine and the 40 amp converter is the same part number, so I am wondering if you have tried what I suggested earlier. I am at my boat every weekend and the batteries are totally disconnected. I plug into the marinas 110 vac with my shore power cord with an std adapter of course. My converter switch in the panel is on. I then hit the dc power switches and the a/c outlets.
I can lift my hatch, turn on all my lights, listen to music, I even listened to the football games on tv while in the bilge.
No extra anything, no special wiring. The converter powers all my dc circuits from the factory setup. While I am sure it wont start my boat (which is winterized anyway), I can work on everything I want.

Again, I'm a 2006 so maybe the wiring is different, but before you add wires etc., it may be worth a try...
 
JKenny said:
I'm trying to run some cables between the cabinet behind the couch in the cabin and the helm and I'm running into some trouble.

I've tried to run a fiberglass rods from the access panel just starboard of the captain's chair forward into the cabin and I'm hitting something that I can't get past about 2-3 feet in. I see, what seems to be, a panel in the starboard storage locker just forward of the aft sleeping area in the cabin (pix attached). It has 2 visible screws - but even after removing them the panel does not want to move. There is no play in it at all and feels like it's still attached in a way I can't see.

Anyone have any experience removing this back wall of the storage locker panel? I think if I can get back there I can finish my cable pulls aft... Any ideas are appreciated.
View attachment 138554
Click to expand...
What year boat
On my 07 there’s a whole bunch of silicone to get thru
 
JKenny said:
I'm trying to run some cables between the cabinet behind the couch in the cabin and the helm and I'm running into some trouble.

I've tried to run a fiberglass rods from the access panel just starboard of the captain's chair forward into the cabin and I'm hitting something that I can't get past about 2-3 feet in. I see, what seems to be, a panel in the starboard storage locker just forward of the aft sleeping area in the cabin (pix attached). It has 2 visible screws - but even after removing them the panel does not want to move. There is no play in it at all and feels like it's still attached in a way I can't see.

Anyone have any experience removing this back wall of the storage locker panel? I think if I can get back there I can finish my cable pulls aft... Any ideas are appreciated.
View attachment 138554
Click to expand...

Is your boat an '02 or an '03? I thought I've seen you post that this is an older body style 340?

If it's the old body style you should be able to remove that panel. Perhaps make sure you don't have some fasteners hidden under fabric. The vinyl may also be quite "stuck", 20 years old and all, so once you're sure all screws are out don't be afraid to put some force into it...

I mounted my amps directly to that board. Made for very easy access.
32093602501_78a635d78f_h.jpg
 
So if you have a wire at both ends that you can pull on and it moves freely unhook it at one end tie a 1/4" cord to it. Then pull that wire back to the wire you need pulled in. Add the new wire to it and another piece of cording and pull everything in.
 
Boaterboy, No, please don't but-out :) I'm happy for all of your thoughts/suggestions. Honestly, I was reluctant to do anything for fear of causing more of a problem for myself. Right now, I'm just happy to hear about a method that has worked for the mechanics at the yard.

DrPringle, Stee6043, Yes, my boat is listed as a 2003 but was manufactured in 2002 so it is the older style hull. Good idea about any hidden fasteners... I'll start feeling around and see what I can see. I expected some "give" to the panel with the screws out but it's as firmly attached as when the screws were in - although someone has been behind it already based on the wires I see dropping in from behind. I'll keep looking.

dvx216, Agreed about using the existing wires to pull new wires through. I'm expecting to also add a security system and having open access to the back of the storage locker would be helpful for that as well.

Thank you all...
 
JKenny said:
I'm trying to run some cables between the cabinet behind the couch in the cabin and the helm and I'm running into some trouble.

I've tried to run a fiberglass rods from the access panel just starboard of the captain's chair forward into the cabin and I'm hitting something that I can't get past about 2-3 feet in. I see, what seems to be, a panel in the starboard storage locker just forward of the aft sleeping area in the cabin (pix attached). It has 2 visible screws - but even after removing them the panel does not want to move. There is no play in it at all and feels like it's still attached in a way I can't see.

Anyone have any experience removing this back wall of the storage locker panel? I think if I can get back there I can finish my cable pulls aft... Any ideas are appreciated.
View attachment 138554
Click to expand...
Mine has the two screws with washer heads on the bottom and the L brackets at the top of the board. I remove the L bracket screws as well that attach to the walls. With it removed, its relatively easy to fish cables to the radio location in the cabinet to the left or to the storage locker on the right. In the storage locker, remove the right panel and it will give you access right up to the map console storage area at the helm.

I used the Factory clarion remote cable as my fish when I replaced the radio. I also mounted my apps on this board in the locker.
 
We recently sold a 1997 370EC that we had in Mexico and bought a 2005 340DA. The new boat is in the Caribbean and I'm trying to organize various supplies/parts to bring when we head to the island in a few weeks to take delivery of the boat. I've been reading through this forum and learning a lot, but I have a few 340 model specific questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated...

1) There are two missing components below the passenger seat (3rd seat, next to the helm, see photo). Can anyone tell me what is missing?

2) There are a couple of underwater lights at the swim platform that are badly corroded (photo). Curious what others have done... Replace or remove and fill? Is this a useful feature to have?

3) The windshield actuator needs replacement. I have a new spare from my last boat that I will bring if the stroke is the same. The part I have has a 6" stroke. Does anyone know the stroke of the part on the 340?

4)Unfortunately, my Sea Ray Systems Monitor is toast (photo). But a new Mercruiser VesselView 4 was installed along with new engines in 2018. I assume I will lose a few warnings, such as bilge level, but the new VesselView otherwise renders the Systems Monitor redundant now?

5) I'm missing the plastic burl cover for the left switch group on the dash. I've searched around, but havent found a replacement source (I certainly don't want to buy the whole module!). Has anyone else solved this issue?

6) And finally, I used the auto-pilot extensively on my old boat, but the 340 has no auto pilot. Looking at the 2005 original brochure and it doesnt appear to have been an option? Does anyone have one on their 2005 340? Or have you installed one aftermarket?
WhatsApp Image 2023-01-16 at 14.12.46.jpg
20221124_083806.jpg
20221124_085307.jpg
engine monitor.jpg

Thanks in advance, here are some photos...
 
Randy1 said:
1) There are two missing components below the passenger seat (3rd seat, next to the helm, see photo). Can anyone tell me what is missing?
Click to expand...

As @DrPringle mentioned they are just vent covers. There are a couple of close matches just watch the screw spacings. I have been looking at seeing if I can retrofit the stainless models.

https://sea-dog.com/groups/2119-thru-vent-abs

Randy1 said:
2) There are a couple of underwater lights at the swim platform that are badly corroded (photo). Curious what others have done... Replace or remove and fill? Is this a useful feature to have?
Click to expand...

Lights are cools and can get expensive quickly. That is a personal preference. Like usual if they are not leaking or broken I would just leave them. I would probably eventually replace with new lights.

Randy1 said:
3) The windshield actuator needs replacement. I have a new spare from my last boat that I will bring if the stroke is the same. The part I have has a 6" stroke. Does anyone know the stroke of the part on the 340?
Click to expand...

Actuator is a 4inch stroke on my 2004 340SDA. I replaced with this one from Amazon. You will need to replace the connector as it is probably corroded. I would look used a weatherpack connector on both sides.

Randy1 said:
4)Unfortunately, my Sea Ray Systems Monitor is toast (photo). But a new Mercruiser VesselView 4 was installed along with new engines in 2018. I assume I will lose a few warnings, such as bilge level, but the new VesselView otherwise renders the Systems Monitor redundant now?
Click to expand...

Not much I can add. The VV will give you the smartcraft data. Troubleshooting the old monitors can be frustrating and parts are not available.

Randy1 said:
5) I'm missing the plastic burl cover for the left switch group on the dash. I've searched around, but havent found a replacement source (I certainly don't want to buy the whole module!). Has anyone else solved this issue?
Click to expand...

Looks like you have the cover but it is just black. If that is the case tecngraphic can refinish for you.

Randy1 said:
6) And finally, I used the auto-pilot extensively on my old boat, but the 340 has no auto pilot. Looking at the 2005 original brochure and it doesnt appear to have been an option? Does anyone have one on their 2005 340? Or have you installed one aftermarket?
Click to expand...

At this point you are going to add new if you don't have it so I would look to match to what ever electronics manufacture you are going to use to keep integration simple. Most people seem to go with Garmin or Raymarine.

I would also look at the 2003.5-2008 Sundancer model year thread as it has lots of good info specific to our model.

-Kevin
 
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