340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Plugging into shore power will give you AC but without batteries in your boat you will not get DC. The Charger connects to the batteries without them its an open circuit let alone if you try to run the charge the battery lead might be touching together which could cause a short. Someone with your year of boat can tell you if there is a access cover to unhook the lift ram so you can manually open it.
 
dvx216, thank you...

The hatch had to be open for them to remove the batteries - and it's closed now so there must be a way...

I thought the hatch lift rod was attached with a cotter pin from within... Maybe they disconnected and lowered the ram while still having a battery and then lowered it manually afterwards.

I'll try to find the mechanic at the yard that worked on the boat and ask him what he did.

I appreciate the insight.

Joe
 
JKenny said:
dvx216, thank you...

The hatch had to be open for them to remove the batteries - and it's closed now so there must be a way...

I thought the hatch lift rod was attached with a cotter pin from within... Maybe they disconnected and lowered the ram while still having a battery and then lowered it manually afterwards.

I'll try to find the mechanic at the yard that worked on the boat and ask him what he did.

I appreciate the insight.

Joe
Click to expand...
Grab a battery or a jump box and plug one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742KDNWG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_ud_dp_9RW8HDHZPR39KDDMQ89V into the boat to raise the hatch.
 
techmitch, thanks... That's probably what the mechanic did as well but I'll find out in the next couple of days.
 
JKenny said:
techmitch, thanks... That's probably what the mechanic did as well but I'll find out in the next couple of days.
Click to expand...
I have done the same thing as you did. My storage wants the batteries unhooked. I did not want to mess with that hatch without the lift attached. I am sure the hatch is very heavy. I do not know how or even if they unhooked the batteries. I don't plan on going back till spring.
 
JKenny said:
One more 'new owner' question please...

The yard has winterized my boat (2002 340DA) and removed the batteries for me to store over the winter.
It's presently disconnected from shore power with the engine hatch closed. I'm hoping to do some work/clean up of the engine space this winter and I'm unsure how to open the engine hatch now that the batteries have been removed.

I didn't want to assume that plugging in shore power again will let me raise the hatch until I checked with the folks here...

Am I missing something or is back to shore power the right way to go?

For what it's worth, I do expect to do much of the winterization myself next time - but the boat was too new to me this year so I had the yard do...

Thanks,
Click to expand...

The hatch runs off of DC. If all batteries are removed, there is no DC. Shorepower isn't going to run the hatch acuator. Ask the yard, but presumably they disconnected the actuator from the hatch so you could open it manually. There are two pull out button handles on the hatch to allow you to lift it manually. It is very heavy and will be a two person job most likely. Once open you can run a line from where the hatch actuator attachment point over the transom and tie it off.
 
I had 250 of all chain (G4) swapped to it with Windless finger issues. and more bow drop. it worked. and anchored like a dream. I not have 225 all chain asI had to cut loose a anchor after 6 years.... new anchor and swivel and 225 now haha.
 
bfernald0 said:
The hatch runs off of DC. If all batteries are removed, there is no DC. Shorepower isn't going to run the hatch acuator. Ask the yard, but presumably they disconnected the actuator from the hatch so you could open it manually. There are two pull out button handles on the hatch to allow you to lift it manually. It is very heavy and will be a two person job most likely. Once open you can run a line from where the hatch actuator attachment point over the transom and tie it off.
Click to expand...
While only a few years newer boat - this works and may be worth a try
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/2004-34-sundancer.111415/#post-1371873
 
IMG_20221209_132858149.jpg
 
Visited the boat today to see it shrink wrapped :) and see the drain plug is still installed. Although I thought the yard would pull it when they were doing the other work I guess its now up to me...

Anyone know the size wrench I'll need? It looks to be about 1 1/4" or maybe a little larger. Also, would anyone recommend anti-seize when it goes back in?

Thanks
 
12" crescent wrench should take care of it as for anti seize it's a tapered plug and should be brass so not really needed. May pipe dope . That's if your in freshwater can't speak for salt.
 
Removing the plug is usually a standard part of dry storing. I would certainly bring it to the attention of the boatyard/marina. Of it is not, put it on the work order next time as long as they don't charge you an arm and a leg to do so.
 
Korkie said:
Removing the plug is usually a standard part of dry storing. I would certainly bring it to the attention of the boatyard/marina. Of it is not, put it on the work order next time as long as they don't charge you an arm and a leg to do so.
Click to expand...
Yep. My place removes and tapes it to the trim tab actuator so it’s right there in the spring.
 
After all those boats sunk that were on the hard during that hurricane hit the east coast I bet there is mixed opinion on leave plug in or out.
 
Hoping for some insight from the group...

I'm a new owner of a 2003 340DA and while going through the withdrawals of a long winter season I'm reading/looking at battery options...
My boat has 5 batteries. 2 forward and between the engines, 2 aft between the exhaust mufflers and 1 next to the genny. I suspect the one by the genny is for a dedicated inverter that feed special outlets on the boat.
They have all been pulled by the yard and are being stored for the winter - but I think my first order of business will be to determine which batteries power what...
The PO notes shows he replaced 4 of the 5 batteries 2 years ago so I have some time - I think.
But, when I do replace them with AGMs, I'm going down a rabbit hole on whether they should be deep cycle or starting batteries.
Safe to think that the Starboard/Genny batteries are starter and the port/house batteries are deep cycle - if I find they are wired that way?
Should I be thinking about this differently?
 
JKenny said:
Hoping for some insight from the group...

I'm a new owner of a 2003 340DA and while going through the withdrawals of a long winter season I'm reading/looking at battery options...
My boat has 5 batteries. 2 forward and between the engines, 2 aft between the exhaust mufflers and 1 next to the genny. I suspect the one by the genny is for a dedicated inverter that feed special outlets on the boat.
They have all been pulled by the yard and are being stored for the winter - but I think my first order of business will be to determine which batteries power what...
The PO notes shows he replaced 4 of the 5 batteries 2 years ago so I have some time - I think.
But, when I do replace them with AGMs, I'm going down a rabbit hole on whether they should be deep cycle or starting batteries.
Safe to think that the Starboard/Genny batteries are starter and the port/house batteries are deep cycle - if I find they are wired that way?
Should I be thinking about this differently?
Click to expand...

Speaking generally, the Sea Ray's from this era generally have 4 batteries. 2 Stbd and 2 Port. The Port batteries generally serve as the starting battery for the port engine and the 'house' battery bank for the cabin. The Stbd serve as starting batteries for the starboard engine and generator (if you have one), and the 'house' battery bank for the dash and cockpit.

In my humble opinion it's a dopey set up because it deprives you of a dedicated house bank. Not sure where the 5th battery in your set up comes in. Might want to ask the prior owner. I ended up moving the starting batteries forward under the aft cabin setee and dropping 2 L16 6volt AGMs in the middle bilge right behind the engines as my house bank. It was a job both in terms of getting the batteries in there and in terms of rewiring everything. Not for the faint of heart.
 
JKenny said:
One more 'new owner' question please...

The yard has winterized my boat (2002 340DA) and removed the batteries for me to store over the winter.
It's presently disconnected from shore power with the engine hatch closed. I'm hoping to do some work/clean up of the engine space this winter and I'm unsure how to open the engine hatch now that the batteries have been removed.

I didn't want to assume that plugging in shore power again will let me raise the hatch until I checked with the folks here...

Am I missing something or is back to shore power the right way to go?

For what it's worth, I do expect to do much of the winterization myself next time - but the boat was too new to me this year so I had the yard do...

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Hi Joe,

You've probably overcome this issue by now but here's my two cents.

When I remove the batteries from my '99 340 I reconnect the AC converter to the positive lead using a nut and bolt insulated with tape. I do this for both port and starboard. The entire DC system is then powered by the AC converter, including the hatch lift, via shore power. I'm betting this is is how your yard was able to close the hatch. Doing it manually is a nuisance and the hatch is quite heavy, especially with the rear seat assembly in place.

Back feeding through an accessory port, as others have suggested, is indeed possible. The accessory port and hatch lift are both on 15 amp circuits so the wiring can handle the load (thought the male adaptor plug is unlikely to be rated at 15A). You would have to connect to a port which is powered from the starboard distribution, as this is where the hatch lift is connected. The risk here is not knowing what the stbd side positive battery is touching in the engine compartment. If it's carelessly left in contact with, for example, the engine block, the dead short will cause sparks until the breaker trips or worse.
 
Our NTU (new to us) 2001 340 we got in September will be going under the knife after the Holidays are over. Going to install 1042xsv and Radar. So I'll be breaking out the drill and saw. Was able to repair the trucks on the cabin door. Currently it has a non multi function Simrad cruise 9 chart plotter and a non AIS Raymarine radio that will be replaced with a Standard Horizon GX 2400 radio. Wife already has plans for the upholstery to bring some color to the cockpit. Next off season we'll start that project a little at a time. My upholstery guy will be happy to here we got a different boat considering he had finished the 310 Da. we sold. Will eventually put Plasteak flooring in the cabin but for now the carpet isn't in bad shape.
 
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