330 ec info

Xplicitlnck

Xplicitlnck

Well-Known Member
Jan 2, 2012
4,030
Long island ny
Boat Info
330ec
Engines
Twin 7.4 straight drive
I'm looking to upgrade. Tying to sell my boat but in the mean time looking at a 97 330 express cruiser. Twin 7.4 mpi fresh water cooled v drives. Westerbeke genny. Can anybody give me any pointers on what to look for. I don't have any expedience with v drives but am very mechanically inclined. Gph? Anything that will help me go through the boat before I spend the money on a mechanic and survey. Thank you
 
Isn't that the 340 amberjack? Great boat, but its straight drives not v-drives - while you loose the mid cabin, the ride is great and the wide beam keeps the cabin huge......love that boat, the bow flare, etc - one of my favorite sea rays. Good luck - I have no experience running one but I would expect 35+ GPH
 
I would get the maintenance records. I would want to know when the manifolds and risers we changed last. I would expect that that the hull was stripped and barrier coated, but if not, it may need to be done. The 330 EC is a great boat. It is wider than the DA and has more engine room which is a big plus... I would do a compression check, and also check for water in the balsa core areas near the windlass, forward hatches, an in stern near the swim platform...
 
I looked at a 330 EC before I bought my 32 Open. It was a nice looking boat, but I decided against it for two reasons. The sight lines from the helm did not work for me. When standing at the helm, the top of the windshield frame was at eye level. This meant looking through eisinglass much of the time. Also the boat was not very responsive getting up on plane and in turns. The 370 is much better, although you still end up looking through eisenglass much of the time which is not so good when Lake Michigan is rough.
 
They boat is very close to me. Bumped into it accidentally at my Marina. It was repowered in 09 but I will getall maintenance records. What am I lookingfor ,water balsa cores? Dunno what that is... and why would thereb water?. I apologize straight drives it is. Still have to sell mine. First
 
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This boat does not have v-drives but strait shafts. The engine room is large and maintence id very easy. I love my 340 AJ, the same boat.
 
Not that it really matters but what's you best cruise rpm and at what mph and Gph at that rpm? It's alot of boat for a 33 I really hope I sell mine before the ec disappears its very well priced.and very clean. The engine room was one of my fav parts of the boat tons of room. And yes straight drives the broker had then listed as v but just ffound out he lied
 
My 340 is the same hull, but there are some differences in the layout below. The 97 would probably have a circular seating area in the bow that becomes a birth (the 2001 switched to a permanent birth), the 97 probably has a couch that flattens out to a birth (the 2001 has a 4 person face to face dinette that becomes a birth), and the 97 is a white interior (the 2001 is cherry wood).

I have 8.1's so the performance figures might be a bit different, but it can plane as low as 14 mph @ 2000 rpm, best cruise 29 mph @ 3600 rpm, wot 38 mph @ 4450 rpm. You really have to appreciate the balance advantage that having mid-ship engines provide. This boat will take a lot of weight in the cockpit and still be able to get on plane without a lot of fuss. Put her next to a 340 Dancer and you will really see the difference all the way around - this is a much beefier boat.

One of the things that attracted me to this model (other than having looks that doesn't get lost in a crowd) was the ability to service the vitals myself. A crowd always seems to gather every time I open up the ER with those twin rams humming and the entire floor rising up. I don't know how many times I've been asked, "how wide is that boat" or "what model is that? A forty??"

Yes, I give up an aft cabin, but the admiral and I still sleep together - and I don't see my boat as being the hotel for friends. Get a B&B. Personal preference there...

What to look for? The hull is solid fiberglass so not usually any concerns there, but the topsides are cored like most every boat. There is a potential water to get into the wood core and start rotting, but I've never seen this as being a big issue. Some other models have problems with the bow rail stantions allowing water into the core, but on this boat they are set on an angle which seems to prevent standing water from creating any issues.

Have the proper surveys done and you should be good to go. This is a very seaworthy design and I've had other boaters that do not think that highly of Sea Ray as a manufacturer tell me that this boat is one of only a few Sea Rays that they would consider owning.

Good luck with the process!
 
Thank you very Much for the info.really appreciate it. I love the engine compartment. Actually just spent an hour in it. Had the broker lift it and went over a couple things. Its huge. I have one person I'm sending pics to on my boat so just maybe. I'm looking around at prices. If you were to sell yours what do you think you would ask. Just trying to get a ball park figure of what there wworth.
 
I'd probably ask $110G and expect to get $105G only because of the condition and equipment. I see others as low as $70, but there's always a trade off. The 8.1's command a higher dollar as does the cherry wood interior. Options like a stainless windshield frame, L shape lounger, upgraded navigation/radar, auto helm, auto sync, auto trim, and upgraded stereo/video systems also make a price difference. There would also be a difference in price between a 1997 and 2001 model.

Like others have said recently (regarding boat prices), good clean boats are getting harder to find. If someone has one and if it is not a desperation sale, they can actually command a healthy sale price vs the "bargain" boats that will need lots of work.

I'd guess anything in the low $70's for a 1997 with all the goodies might be about right, but that being said your market area may be very different from mine.
 
Ahha. The one I'm looking at is not in perfect shape it does need a couple cosmetic things (new cockpit carpet shift levers are pitted dash wood not so great but not to bad) seats are still great. 140hours on new long blocks in 09 . Interior mint. He's asking 51 the broker came out without me even asking and said I can probably have it for 42. With that being said what would your offer b? No auto pilot. How often does the cutlas bearings need to b done?
 
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Xplicitlnck said:
Ahha. The one I'm looking at is not in perfect shape it does need a couple cosmetic things (new cockpit carpet shift levers are pitted dash wood not so great but not to bad) seats are still great. 140hours on new long blocks in 09 . Interior mint. He's asking 51 the broker came out without me even asking and said I can probably have it for 42. With that being said what would for offer b? No auto pilot. Hoe often so cutlas brains need to b done?
Click to expand...

What are you talking about here? Hoe's & cutlass bearings?
 
I don't listen much to what any broker says, but I'd be offering $40 and see how motivated the seller actually is. I'm in fresh water and have never had to replace a cutlass bearing and have heard fellow boaters say they get 15-20 yrs service if you keep your alignment current. Salt water will definately shorten that time span. For that kind of price you can do a LOT of upgrades and still be in a positive financial position should you want to sell.

You may want to check the shaft seal cooling water supply for blockages in the water line. If the sea water flow is blocked by sea creatures and you take the boat to high rpm's you'll cook the seals. $$$

Good luck.
 
Check where the shaft enters the ER through the stearn tubes and you'll see the circular seals with the shaft going through it to the transmission coupler. On the seal body will be a water hose about the size of a gas hose that is double clamped onto the seal fitting. Remove the clamps and work the hose off. Mine have little caps attached to the fitting since you may get some water coming out of the seal housing once the hose is removed which is the reason for the cap. Next, start the engine and see if there is water flow coming out of the hose. Hey - you'll be able to check the bilge pumps at the same time!

No damage will occur to the seal as long as you don't put the boat in gear while the water is disconnected.
 
Jimmy Buoy said:
Check where the shaft enters the ER through the stearn tubes and you'll see the circular seals with the shaft going through it to the transmission coupler. On the seal body will be a water hose about the size of a gas hose that is double clamped onto the seal fitting. Remove the clamps and work the hose off. Mine have little caps attached to the fitting since you may get some water coming out of the seal housing once the hose is removed which is the reason for the cap. Next, start the engine and see if there is water flow coming out of the hose. Hey - you'll be able to check the bilge pumps at the same time!

No damage will occur to the seal as long as you don't put the boat in gear while the water is disconnected.
Click to expand...

I melted one of those puppies to the shaft a couple of years ago!! Spent the weekend at Watch Hill listening to my bilge pump cycle on every 10-15 minutes. The hose ripped from whatever it was attached to at the other end and the whole thing was spinning with my shaft! I had them both replaced after that.
 
Gotcha. I will look at that also.how do you think the broker would feel about me disconnecting a hose and filling the bildge with water while it's running lol. But if he don't let me hey deals off. Well I do have one more question just out of curiosity. I know when you winterize an io you use the muffs onto the drive. Just in a quick explanation how do you winterize the raw water and fresh water parts of the cooling system
 
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