310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

bryan25rs said:
Kaz, i did some research and on that transducer and do you think it matters what brand i purchase? Garmin, Airmar? The parts manual listing doesnt show a part number for a 310 with v-drive. It shows options with raymarine radar and i dont have that. I would call my local dealer but all they do is look in the parts manual like i just did. The ones i found online have the depth, temp and speed in one unit. My boat has 2 units, one in front is a speed wheel, on ebehind is depth & temp.
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Is it possible for you to take a picture? I guess since you have V's you have a separate speed sensor. On the stern drive models the water speed "sensor" is in the stern drive.

The Merc branded airmar transducers used - are usually the Airmar SmartSensors. They are not "full transducers" - so you can't hook them up to a fish finder. They are "embedded" versions that return data via NMEA 0183 or newer version - on NMEA 2000.

http://www.airmartechnology.com/2009/products/marine-product.asp?prodid=69&manf=

The above is the most likely "depth sensor" you have in - or it might be the slightly older version - but it would be Mercruiser branded.
 
So I was on the boat yesterday and I checked the connection to the transducer. What I found was that the cable that's zip tied to the engine hoist hook was chafed through the insulation and shield. Must be from the heat and vibration of engine. I cut the bad section out and respliced it and it worked for a whole day. I am going to pick up new connector and fix it properly. Hopefully that does the trick. Thanks for your help Everyone!
 
bryan25rs said:
So I was on the boat yesterday and I checked the connection to the transducer. What I found was that the cable that's zip tied to the engine hoist hook was chafed through the insulation and shield. Must be from the heat and vibration of engine. I cut the bad section out and respliced it and it worked for a whole day. I am going to pick up new connector and fix it properly. Hopefully that does the trick. Thanks for your help Everyone!
Click to expand...


Glad to hear it worked and you did not have to throw parts at it :) I think the normal connectors are sealed connectors and they can be hard to find. So you might be better off leaving the current connector in place and doing your own connection and sealing.
 
I tried that and it worked the first day for about an hour, it seems like once the engines heat up the engine room it goes out. Or maybe its the vibration. When the boat has been sitting it always works, i thing there is still a loose wire in the connection. What a pain in the ass!
 
I rewired it and it still cut out periodically, i think that the tranducer may be going. Thanks for all the input. On to the next issue....
My Vessel View says i have a bad injector and wont stop beeping. Fuel economy is still fine starboard engine running only slightly rough. Engine rpms are fine though. Do you guys know if the Mercruiser Code reader will tell me what cylinder number has the bad injector? I also am getting a low voltage alarm when i crank over the port battery. 4 brand new batteries last month. Do any of you guys know what battery powers what? I have 2 battery switches but they are both just on or off no 1 or 2 option.

Thanks for your help in adavance..... Bryan
 
What do you guys cruise at? I'm pushing 4100 RPMs to hit the sweet spot and still only go 23 knots or so... I know the boat is back heavy but everyone else I talk to at the marina cruise around 3200.... I have Vdrives so I know that makes a difference... Should I just chalk this up to having an underpowered boat...

Thoughts? Concerns? Greatly appreciated...

Thanks,
Andrew
 
The latch on my lazarette (rear rumble seat compartment) is corroded and I'd like to find a replacement. The description in the 310 Sundancer parts list is wrong. I've been unsuccessful finding a source; any suggestions?

She's so nearly perfect... Just a FEW more parts to replace. And a couple of gel coat repairs. And recaulking the rub rail...
 
hello everyone - newbie here.
going to contract this week on a 2007 310 sundancer. the previous owner had the transom seat (swim platform) rear facing seat removed. im looking for a cost to replace the back and bottom section OR if someone is selling theres i would def. be interested.
thanks
 
Rwf. I replaced that latch, it was only $20 from Sea Ray its located on page 9 in parts manual #2 on the diagram part #1882426
 
purchasing a 2007 310 da and looking into purchase of a trailer. i boat on south shore of long island (slip in marina) but live on north shore. would only be using trailer 2x a year. i have a truck to pull the boat and trailer so thats not an issue. questions-
does anyone tow this boat? does anyone have a good source to find a trailer? how much would a trailer be?
thanks
 
tlrlc said:
purchasing a 2007 310 da and looking into purchase of a trailer. i boat on south shore of long island (slip in marina) but live on north shore. would only be using trailer 2x a year. i have a truck to pull the boat and trailer so thats not an issue. questions-
does anyone tow this boat? does anyone have a good source to find a trailer? how much would a trailer be?
thanks
Click to expand...

Are you going to be storing it on the trailer? Considering the costs involved, and the fact that the trailer would only roll twice a year, you might be better off just hiring someone to transport it and block it for you each year.
 
I'm pretty sure it's too big to trailer... I had to remove everything on the arch when I trucked mine down from Boston.... I couldn't imagine disconnecting and reconnecting everything up there every time you want to move it... I think the height requirement is 12ft to clear all wires etc...
 
tlrlc said:
purchasing a 2007 310 da and looking into purchase of a trailer. i boat on south shore of long island (slip in marina) but live on north shore. would only be using trailer 2x a year. i have a truck to pull the boat and trailer so thats not an issue. questions-
does anyone tow this boat? does anyone have a good source to find a trailer? how much would a trailer be?
thanks
Click to expand...

I tow this boat 30 miles round trip every weekend. This boat is 14,000 lbs dry weight, so you will need to buy a heavy-duty 3 axle trailer that can handle 18,000-20,000 lbs, or potentially more. This boat WILL require a 1-ton+ vehicle preferably with dual axle if long trip. I use a F350 4x4 single rear axle. (Oversize loads will be needed, and depending on the trailer, the boat will sit high. (Mine sits at 14' - 3 1/2" to the top of the gps, just a half inch of requiring a lead car with lights and pole in IA). Everything sitting above the gps will need to be removed. (Glomax, radar, etc.). GPS can be taken off to save a couple of inches if needed. Still need to watch out for low telephone/cable lines and you will definitely hit some tree branches. I'm guessing a new custom trailer built to boat specs would be in the $8,000 to $15,000 range depending on the gear and company. This boat is really heavy, and I would recommend spending the extra to buy a custom, rather than finding a trailer that will fit. Some may argue that you will only be trailering twice a year, so find something that will just work, but in the scope and long term expense of the boat, you should be able to squeeze out another small nugget to give it a good ride and nice winter home to sit on IMHO!
 
Yeah was exploring my options
It seems that paying for winter storage on land atmarina will be an option
Or having it hauled and brought home will be much cheaper.
But thanks for the quick reply's
 
tlrlc said:
purchasing a 2007 310 da and looking into purchase of a trailer. i boat on south shore of long island (slip in marina) but live on north shore. would only be using trailer 2x a year. i have a truck to pull the boat and trailer so thats not an issue. questions-
does anyone tow this boat? does anyone have a good source to find a trailer? how much would a trailer be?
thanks
Click to expand...
I tow about 1 mile to and from storage twice a year. I have towed it 90 miles to the dealer and back when I first bought it. I use a 2500HD, but more truck would be better. The dealer rebuilt a 96 Shorelend'r for me for $6K. I priced a custom trailer from Loadmaster for about $8,200 a few year ago.
 
getting a 2007 310 DA with 6.2 horizon v drives.
what is your best cruising speed? knots/mph fuel burn etc.
thanks
 
Hey Guys I'm joining the club with a new to me 2010 330DA. I'm going to have a lot of questions as I try to figure out the systems. The first one is easy I hope. Where is the SS leg for the salon table stored? Found the table under the forward berth but can't find the leg. Thanks in advance!
 
Dumb question #1 - we just picked up out new to me 2007 310da
I can't figure out the interior LED lights.
There's 2 switches at foward berth
4 by cabin entrance
1 in aft or "mid state"
I can get all the interior lights - reading, galley, courtesy foot lights and
Overhead of couch halogen lights
None of the switches turn on led lights - HELP!
Thanks
 
tlrlc said:
Dumb question #1 - we just picked up out new to me 2007 310da
I can't figure out the interior LED lights.
There's 2 switches at foward berth
4 by cabin entrance
1 in aft or "mid state"
I can get all the interior lights - reading, galley, courtesy foot lights and
Overhead of couch halogen lights
None of the switches turn on led lights - HELP!
Thanks
Click to expand...

First - congrat's :) and remember - no pictures = no new boat... :grin:

All the 4 switches at the entrance should turn lights on - one being the LED lights/floor lights. But when I got my 310 - one switch did not turn anything on. Turned out to be the crimp on the cable behind the switch - it was never really crimped from the factory. So it worked until it got shaken loose. So a quick turn in the crimp tool and all was working again.

So that was the first I would check.
 
Will post as soon as I get a sec.
The 2 foot lights by head and foot of bed. Those should go on
With overhead LED lights?
 
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