300 Sundancer questions.

Team,
Hope to get some help here. Yesterday when I got to the boat someone had unplugged my shorepower cord at the dock side. Needless to say both my refrigerators were on along with AC. The AC shut down which was not a big deal but tge refrigerators ran the 4 batteries down to zero.
I hooked the shore power back up and waited for about 4 hours. Engines started and I let them run for a bit. Took the boat out and everything was running good until I got a alert sound and the starboard engine shut down and then the port engine. The smart guages were not registering. I suspect that I ran out of battery power to operate the guages etc. I only ran the boat for about 20 min before all this took place. As I said ,I started the generator and waited for a charge to the batteries. After about 20 min. I was able to start the starboard engine and cruise slow with the generator running back to the dock. I've since checked both engines oil. All good. Port engine wont start. When the port engine shut down I did notice that the breaker to start the engine was tripped below in the panel.
We charged all the batteries with shore power all night and I tested them. All in the green for good.
The starboard engine will start. The port engine switch doesnt even make the beep sound signal that its ready to press to start.
What gives ??
 
I've had similar issues when the battery ran too far down. First check the fluid levels in them (if flooded, not sealed).

I've also had the experience where the batteries had good voltage and the charger indicated all good but they were still to low to get it to start or even power up the gauges. When this happened I couldn't get the other engine started even when the other was running and trying the emergency switch. With no beep at all and no fuel pump running, I assumed it was a breaker but it turned out to be bad batteries. They were old and I was on the fence about new ones this year but when this happened, I went right out and replaced all 4. All good since then.

Someone unplugging your shore power is another issue :mad: Our pedestals have a place for a padlock so you can't open the top and unplug the shore end when locked. The cord I have now doesn't have the locking ring although I should get one of those.
 
Phil S said:
I've had similar issues when the battery ran too far down. First check the fluid levels in them (if flooded, not sealed).

I've also had the experience where the batteries had good voltage and the charger indicated all good but they were still to low to get it to start or even power up the gauges. When this happened I couldn't get the other engine started even when the other was running and trying the emergency switch. With no beep at all and no fuel pump running, I assumed it was a breaker but it turned out to be bad batteries. They were old and I was on the fence about new ones this year but when this happened, I went right out and replaced all 4. All good since then.

Someone unplugging your shore power is another issue :mad: Our pedestals have a place for a padlock so you can't open the top and unplug the shore end when locked. The cord I have now doesn't have the locking ring although I should get one of those.
Click to expand...
The starboard engine beeps at the switch and fires right up. The port engine wont even beep at the switch. Like no juice is going to that switch. Really odd. I had the shore power on it all night. I tested all the batteries with a tester and shows in the green.
Should i disconnect the batteries and test them individually? They are hooked together.
 
I just checked all the batteries individually. They all tested as charged and ok. Is there a breaker somewhere that needs to be reset for the port engine to get juice for starting ?
 
Ididntdoit said:
Top of the motor near the IAC
Click to expand...

Is this it? The 50A one? Kinda hard to see from this angle but it's the only pic I could find of mine with the top cover removed. Behind the solenoid but before the plug wires?

upload_2021-7-17_19-12-59.png
 
Time Enhancer said:
I just checked all the batteries individually. They all tested as charged and ok. Is there a breaker somewhere that needs to be reset for the port engine to get juice for starting ?
Click to expand...
Were you able to get it working? It's always nice for the community to know what resolves issues.
 
I just got my boat back after having a 5.0 long block installed (port engine). The engines are running well but I cannot get some of the systems back up and running. I filled the water tank but the water won't flow from the faucets. I hear the pump go on when I turn on the Water System. Also, the stereo won't turn on even after I turn on "Stereo System." This is the same in both AC and DC modes.

On the dash I can't get the Acc 1 or Acc 2 buttons to light. Everything seems to be working on the port switch pad but several things won't work on the starboard switch pad.

Any advice?
 
Alert said:
I filled the water tank but the water won't flow from the faucets. I hear the pump go on when I turn on the Water System.
Click to expand...

Was the hot water heater emptied before the engine was replaced? If so it could take minute while that fills up the 6 gals. Have you opened both hot and cold faucets? How about the transom shower? Even though you hear the pump run, there could be an obstruction in the line or the screen filter (at the pump) could be clogged as well.
 
Thanks, Phil S.,

I did turn on all the faucets and left them open for a while with the pump on and nothing happened. All of the systems worked normally the last time I used the boat in October 2019.

I think this all has to do with the fact that none of the accessories are working on the starboard switch pad, however, I certainly do not know for sure...
 
Ok I see what you mean. I would check the filter on the bottom of the water pump. Mine was all gunked up this spring after commissioning and once I cleaned it out and treated the water tank, it was much better. If you're turning on the water system breaker in the cabin, that should be all you need to get water out of the facuets.

Since you can hear the pump running, see if the pump will draw water from a bucket (for example) and send that to the faucets. If not, it might be a bad pump or some obstruction. But if none of the faucets work, it would have to be blocked up at the manifold.

Dirty filter:

upload_2021-7-26_14-3-44.png
 
Phil S said:
Ok I see what you mean. I would check the filter on the bottom of the water pump. Mine was all gunked up this spring after commissioning and once I cleaned it out and treated the water tank, it was much better. If you're turning on the water system breaker in the cabin, that should be all you need to get water out of the facuets.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help. My water problem was caused by the person that winterized the boat disconnected the intake and outflow hoses to the water pump and removed the caps at each end of the water system manifold. I reconnected everything. However, the water still didn't have hardly any pressure and the faucets just trickled water (if at all). Then I noticed water gushing from the base of the toilet in the head.

I removed the pedal and saw that the brass screw/cap on the bottom had come loose. I tightened that that and everything's now bone dry and working normally -- including very good water pressure and flow from the faucets. But, the pedal will go down (flushing by rotating the ball valve) but will not go up higher to distribute water in the bowl. A few ounces come out after I push down and the ball rotates. The few ounces of water stays in the bowl (indicating a good seal) but after the pedal has returned to its normal position it cannot be moved up any more and I cannot add any more water.

Looks like I have the Vacu-Flush unit (Part #1006).

Anyone familiar with this?

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
New issue .
Starboard 350 mag mpi looks to be shot potentially. Both engines have 670 hours.
Question :
Pull both engines and swap out for 383's or just reinstall two new 350 mag mpi's ?
The engines in there now have all new risers and elbows along with new pulleys , alternators , etc.
Long blocks or short blocks ?
2005 Sea Ray 300 DA
FB_IMG_1627780265837.jpg
 
That's a tough call. Both of my 5.0 engines have been replaced by the PO, and not at the same time, but they were just long new blocks with all the accessories swapped over, and some are looking tired with some rust.

If one is still good and you only need one, why not get one 350 replacement? If you can afford it, two new 383 strokers would be awesome -- and you'd be set for a long time -- but that's a lotta boat bucks. 670 hours is certainly not end-of-life if they've been cared for.

If you're talking drop-in crate engines with all the accessories, you could keep the spares. Otherwise move everything over and save $$$.
 
Phil S said:
That's a tough call. Both of my 5.0 engines have been replaced by the PO, and not at the same time, but they were just long new blocks with all the accessories swapped over, and some are looking tired with some rust.

If one is still good and you only need one, why not get one 350 replacement? If you can afford it, two new 383 strokers would be awesome -- and you'd be set for a long time -- but that's a lotta boat bucks. 670 hours is certainly not end-of-life if they've been cared for.

If you're talking drop-in crate engines with all the accessories, you could keep the spares. Otherwise move everything over and save $$$.
Click to expand...
Trying to figure it all out. The starboard engine has a serious nock. I think its toast. Port engine is ok.
If I'm going through the process I might want to kick it up a knotch to a bit more HP. Help get the girl 9n plane a bit quicker and easier. We would be good for a long while then. Love the boat. Great on Smith Mountain Lake in VA.
 
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