300 Sundancer questions.

What would you change on the 300DA if you could?

I would gladly give up the sink/fridge/counter on the port side in place of a seat.
 
Phil S said:
What would you change on the 300DA if you could?

I would gladly give up the sink/fridge/counter on the port side in place of a seat.
Click to expand...
We had the same idea when we owned the boat. We never used that sink. If we were to keep it long term we would have done something custom there.

Go for it. We will all cheer you on.
 
I just bought my 97 300DA. I have two new bilge blowers that were working until a battery went down. Then only the starboard blower was working. So I changed the bad battery so all 3 batteries are 100%. Now neither blower works. Is it a fuse? A switch? And where is the fuse block? Can’t seem to find it anywhere. Help!
 
I've been working from the galley lately, and always have something charging by USB. I decided to replace the 12V plug with one of these. I added one to the helm too but in this case, it was a direct plug and play -- same size hole and even same size spade terminals to match the existing wiring. R/R in five minutes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08V3G5QCH/

upload_2021-7-14_15-10-34.png
 
Hey Still. Being its a 300 I doubt you are trailering. Get to know your slip neighbors, look for an old bearded grizzled guy with face skin like leather. That guy knows more about boats than you will ever know. Ask him, he may growl but he wont bite and he will teach you so much.
 
Still Shear Pleasure said:
I just obtained my 86 300. my throttle handles are not centered on the housing when in neutral. can the handles be removed and centered without screwing things worse?
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Hi, mine's a 2002 and had the control box and cable replaced. The handles didn't center at first and the adjustments were made where the cables connect to the engine. Not sure about your setup but that's how they were centered up on mine.
 
Pirate Lady said:
Hey Still. Being its a 300 I doubt you are trailering. Get to know your slip neighbors, look for an old bearded grizzled guy with face skin like leather. That guy knows more about boats than you will ever know. Ask him, he may growl but he wont bite and he will teach you so much.
Click to expand...
Artmancofl said:
Hi, mine's a 2002 and had the control box and cable replaced. The handles didn't center at first and the adjustments were made where the cables connect to the engine. Not sure about your setup but that's how they were centered up on mine.
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Wasn't looking forward to such expense yet but may not have a choice. Gonna deal with it until layup this fall. Looked on youtube about oiling the cables but that appeared complicated. again, fall project. Thanx
 
Still Shear Pleasure said:
I just obtained my 86 300. my throttle handles are not centered on the housing when in neutral. can the handles be removed and centered without screwing things worse?
Click to expand...
Do you mean that the levers aren't centered when the neutral detent is met, or that the outdrives are still driving with the levers in neutral with the detent met? If it's the prior, the levers can be removed and re-positioned by loosening the Allen screw on the bottom of the lever. Push them to full forward WOT, and you'll see a small hole at the base of the lever. That's where the Allen resides. If it's the latter, you have some cable adjustment/replacement in front of you. I just went through this with my '92 and was able to get some cable lube snaked down by opening the controls. Kinda funky, but it got me out of the cable replacement camp. They work so much better! To get to them:

The chrome cover can be removed by pressing in a little plastic dot along the forward edge. Mine promptly broke, so I'm guessing a dot of RTV will have to do as it's going back together. 'Can't blame it after thirty years... What you don't see here is the two through-screws fore and aft that hold the controls in place, as I already took them out. They slide left-to-right through the four corner brackets.
IMG-1432.jpg


Once these are out, pull the controls up and away. Watch for the cabling on the left controller, as there's no easy way to disconnect it from below. I was able to get enough slack to perform my work without disconnecting them. Be aware; mine were a royal PITA to pull out. It took much rocking and swearing to get them out of the fiberglass dash.

Remove the two screws near the blue label to access the inner workings:
IMG-1436.jpg


Once inside, these actually looked pretty good, considering their age. I merely re-distributed the grease around the wear spots (smeared it around with my grubby finger) and shot some cable lube down the shift and throttle cables.
IMG-1435.jpg


Before going back together, reach inside with a small wrench and tighten the mounting bracket screws. Mine were crazy loose. Fortunately, they were lock nuts, so were still in place. Hopefully, you can get away without having to replace the cables.
 
Okay, without going back through 95 pages and no joy with the "search" feature, what powers the suction pump on the VacuFlush toilet? I've flipped every switch on the dash, searched through the entire ship for a switch that might be related, but no power to the pump. Yes, I did check the breaker. No, it's never run once in my possession. No, the prior owner knows less about the old girl than I do. I hope it's something that I merely overlooked. It's a lot easier at my age to accept being thought of as stupid rather than having to fix something else that's broken.
 
Nater Potater said:
Okay, without going back through 95 pages and no joy with the "search" feature, what powers the suction pump on the VacuFlush toilet? I've flipped every switch on the dash, searched through the entire ship for a switch that might be related, but no power to the pump. Yes, I did check the breaker. No, it's never run once in my possession. No, the prior owner knows less about the old girl than I do. I hope it's something that I merely overlooked. It's a lot easier at my age to accept being thought of as stupid rather than having to fix something else that's broken.
Click to expand...

Got a pic of the toilet itself and any switches in the head on or around the sink/counter?
 
Nater Potater said:
Do you mean that the levers aren't centered when the neutral detent is met, or that the outdrives are still driving with the levers in neutral with the detent met? If it's the prior, the levers can be removed and re-positioned by loosening the Allen screw on the bottom of the lever. Push them to full forward WOT, and you'll see a small hole at the base of the lever. That's where the Allen resides. If it's the latter, you have some cable adjustment/replacement in front of you. I just went through this with my '92 and was able to get some cable lube snaked down by opening the controls. Kinda funky, but it got me out of the cable replacement camp. They work so much better! To get to them:

The chrome cover can be removed by pressing in a little plastic dot along the forward edge. Mine promptly broke, so I'm guessing a dot of RTV will have to do as it's going back together. 'Can't blame it after thirty years... What you don't see here is the two through-screws fore and aft that hold the controls in place, as I already took them out. They slide left-to-right through the four corner brackets.
IMG-1432.jpg


Once these are out, pull the controls up and away. Watch for the cabling on the left controller, as there's no easy way to disconnect it from below. I was able to get enough slack to perform my work without disconnecting them. Be aware; mine were a royal PITA to pull out. It took much rocking and swearing to get them out of the fiberglass dash.

Remove the two screws near the blue label to access the inner workings:
IMG-1436.jpg


Once inside, these actually looked pretty good, considering their age. I merely re-distributed the grease around the wear spots (smeared it around with my grubby finger) and shot some cable lube down the shift and throttle cables.
IMG-1435.jpg


Before going back together, reach inside with a small wrench and tighten the mounting bracket screws. Mine were crazy loose. Fortunately, they were lock nuts, so were still in place. Hopefully, you can get away without having to replace the cables.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for such an in-depth answer. My problem was when the dent was met. Going to do that this weekend. Gonna try the rest in the fall incase I screw it up, I have all winter and early spring for someone else to correct it (lol). Again, thank you
 
techmitch said:
Got a pic of the toilet itself and any switches in the head on or around the sink/counter?
Click to expand...
No, dang it. The only switch in the head was a keyed piece to divert the effluent overboard. Not in my lake, baby! No switches around the sink/counter, or in any cabinets. I went as far as to look through all the cabinets down below and/or anything mounted to the bulkheads.
 
Still Shear Pleasure said:
Thanks a lot for such an in-depth answer. My problem was when the dent was met. Going to do that this weekend. Gonna try the rest in the fall incase I screw it up, I have all winter and early spring for someone else to correct it (lol). Again, thank you
Click to expand...
So it sounds like you just need to move the levers. Good enough! If you find you can't seem to get things to work between forward and reverse, keep in mind that Merc says to have 3 inches ±1/8 inch of travel at the bottom end of the cable. As long as you have that, it's just a matter of adjusting cables. Check out https://static.perfprotech.com/files/store/app_themes/ppt/images/tech-specs/alpha-shift-adjust.pdf for adjustment instructions. I wasn't getting that much travel until after lubing the cables. Once that happened, adjusting the cables was pretty straight forward.
 
Nater Potater said:
No, dang it. The only switch in the head was a keyed piece to divert the effluent overboard. Not in my lake, baby! No switches around the sink/counter, or in any cabinets. I went as far as to look through all the cabinets down below and/or anything mounted to the bulkheads.
Click to expand...

That key switch is usually a 3 position switch. Off/vacuflush syst. on/overboard discharge.
The overboard discharge position is spring loaded just like an ignition switch.
 
techmitch said:
That key switch is usually a 3 position switch. Off/vacuflush syst. on/overboard discharge.
The overboard discharge position is spring loaded just like an ignition switch.
Click to expand...
Well alright then! Now, I just need to find the key...
 
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