300 Sundancer questions.
- Thread starter Bridog
- Start date
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
When I took that same panel off on the other side to replace the door tracks, it was bolted on from behind. Somewhere on here I explain that.
Here it is: http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/300-sundancer-questions.458/page-54#post-630186
Ididntdoit
Well-Known Member
Phil, IIRC you must remove the helm seat (difficult to reach nuts on the farthest studs through storage below), from there you can get in the access panel and reach the nuts noted above (i think there are two, maybe three) you also need to take the screws out of the storage bin - the storage bin is attached to the big vinyl panel - from there its just christmas tree fasteners holding it in - the part labeled as "8" stays in place
Thanks Mike -- so no way to remove just the bin? I need to snake some wires from the radar arch to behind the helm and I figured that just taking out the stbd speaker wouldn't be enough. I also need to add an aux input jack to the bin itself but it sounds like you're saying the bin comes out with the panel?
Ididntdoit
Well-Known Member
That's what I remember - seat and panel need to come out
Ok thanks. My seat adjuster doesn't work anyways so might as well take a look at that while I'm in there. It never ends
I decided to just get the new box -- updated design with new pump and float.
I've already cleaned it out twice, and the float activates the pump fine when I activate it manually. But when it's all back together and I'm running AC, it fills up and ends up overflowing the box. Today I checked in on it and sure enough, full box with some overflow into the sump
I figure by the time I buy a new float and pump separately, I'm into for 2/3 the cost of a new box anyways
HawkX66
Well-Known Member
- Jul 27, 2020
- 1,344
- Boat Info
- "Tread Knot"
1997 Sea Ray Sundancer 290DA
2020 F350 6.7L
- Engines
- 454 L29 Carb w/ Bravo III
That should do the trick!I decided to just get the new box -- updated design with new pump and float.
I've already cleaned it out twice, and the float activates the pump fine when I activate it manually. But when it's all back together and I'm running AC, it fills up and ends up overflowing the box. Today I checked in on it and sure enough, full box with some overflow into the sump
I figure by the time I buy a new float and pump separately, I'm into for 2/3 the cost of a new box anyways
I decided to just get the new box -- updated design with new pump and float.
I've already cleaned it out twice, and the float activates the pump fine when I activate it manually. But when it's all back together and I'm running AC, it fills up and ends up overflowing the box. Today I checked in on it and sure enough, full box with some overflow into the sump
I figure by the time I buy a new float and pump separately, I'm into for 2/3 the cost of a new box anyways
Turned out to be a bad float. Lately it's just the AC filling the box but it fills up faster than I thought! New float and back in business!
You would have to take out the helm seat. You might be able to get that round access cover off with one of those really short screwdrivers like this, but the seat would still be in the way:
You dont need to remove the seat. You can use a fiberglass fish pole and feed it through an opening above the starboard fuel tank along the starboard side of the boat. You may need to remove the speaker by the helm seat to help it along as well as an access panel by the right side of the rear seat.
stelios hondrcolos
Active Member
- Apr 11, 2021
- 178
- Boat Info
- 300
- Engines
- 350 Mag
Im not sure we are talking about the same thing? The only speaker is up on the arch and I dont think I have to go up that far. Im going forward of the gas tank and not anywhere near the 'rear seat'.
So far I have a couple of votes each for removing the seat and not removing the seat
Ididntdoit
Well-Known Member
seat removal is 4 nuts under the storage compartment - while 2 are a bit of a reach - it wont take more than 2 minutes.....worth it to properly run and secure an important link to your boats electronics....
Sorry, in addition to the arch speaker I also have one by my feet at the helm. I've run wires before using the process I described but it may be much, much harder if you dont have the speaker to remove and gain access.
stelios hondrcolos
Active Member
- Apr 11, 2021
- 178
- Boat Info
- 300
- Engines
- 350 Mag
Ok...This is one stupid sumbitch project!
Cant get close to removing the seat bolts. arms are way too short and fat. But I agree I dont have to remove it anyway.
I began removing the screws on the panels to get them off, but even my knucklebuster screwdriver was too long against the seat base. So I will attack again tomorrow with a $1.49 offset screwdriver from Walmart.
And yes I have the foot speaker as well. So will continue dismantle tomorrow.
I could peal away the side cushion which are christmas tree plugs, except at the arch it wouldnt come off and i didnt want to force it.
BUT!
The wire chase looks chock full of cables. I tried tio send a metal snake up from below. No luck. Same from above.
Also the void between the dash and the speaker didnt seem apparent. Maybe it will when I get that bin liner out. I'll probably knock loose a bunch of other dash connections and nothing will work.
I can really see drilling thru the seat base / deck and running the cable mostly outside at the end of the day. Did I mention the cuts and scratches on my hands already?
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stelios hondrcolos
Active Member
- Apr 11, 2021
- 178
- Boat Info
- 300
- Engines
- 350 Mag
My arm couldn't get within a foot of those bolts
I feel your pain. When I had to remove/replace my cockpit seats, I had to get in there under helm seat in that compartment and it's not easy. What I did first was to take off the access panel door by removing the hinge screws so I wouldn't break it. Then I laid down a couple towels over the opening to save my shoulder.
If you're trying to get at the seat bolts, try a cordless impact driver down low, with a long vertical extension and let that do the work.
You can do this!
If you're trying to get at the seat bolts, try a cordless impact driver down low, with a long vertical extension and let that do the work.
You can do this!
stelios hondrcolos
Active Member
- Apr 11, 2021
- 178
- Boat Info
- 300
- Engines
- 350 Mag
I cant even get my shoulder in there. But like I said I don't think I need to. Will hack at it tomorrow between the raindrops.
stelios hondrcolos
Active Member
- Apr 11, 2021
- 178
- Boat Info
- 300
- Engines
- 350 Mag
I would like to remove the starboard cushion liner to get better access. It seems like it’s held in with Christmas tree plugs and just pulls off. But the section where the windshield meets the arch won’t pop off and I’m afraid to force it. Does anyone know how that is attached ?
