260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

There is an actual spigot to connect a hose to and use for washdown. There is connection for the male end of a hose also. This is to run your water system off of dockside water without using your freshwater tank or pump.

Hope this makes sense.

Bennett
 
Thanks for the reply Bennett. It makes sense except I only see the female end on my boat to allow me to connect a regular hose. That seems to be the one to bypass using the freshwater tank. Should there be another connector with the spigot nearby?

Paul
 
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Your 260 is a newer model and may be different than the 2005-2008 models.

In the Lazarette of the 2005-2008 260DA there is both a spigot and a separate connection for dock-side water hook-up. You can put a hose on the Spigot if, for instance, you want to wash your boat down using the water in the holding tank.

If you have an owner's manual there should be a section on the Freshwater System. My owner's manual also has an illustration which shows the location of the items I referred to. If you don't have an owner's manual, you should be able to download one at searay.com
 
We have an 06 260DA-same boat and sleep in the V birth and you can sleep which ever way is most comfortable for you. We have tried it both ways-head to the bow and feet to the bow. We have found that we like the head to the bow better. We have a set of custom sheets that are made for the V birth. They are made to sleep feet to the bow so we do not use them. If you find you like the feet to the bow position best and are interested in the sheets, let me know and we can work out a good deal.



Ive vie been looking for a set of these for a while! The wife and I sleep head to stern because there feels to be more headroom and less cramming. We would LOVE to try the sheets!! I
l send a pm with address info.
 
Thanks for the reply Bennett. It makes sense except I only see the female end on my boat to allow me to connect a regular hose. That seems to be the one to bypass using the freshwater tank. Should there be another connector with the spigot nearby?

Paul[/QUOTE
I have a 2011 260. There should be a nozzle above the connection to turn on the water. We attach a hose and use it to wash down the boat when we remove from the dirty lake water we have here in Ohio.
 
Changing subjects. Has anyone had an extended platform made for the model years 2010 through 2012?
 
Welcome and Congrats!!
It is a great boat to have with all the amenities for a day or weekend. I purchase mine in May and it took me a while to figured things out, actually still working on it. My suggestion to you is to read the manuals for the equipment, it will save you time and headaches. Wish you luck and safe boating..
 
Hello everyone. I'm looking to install an amplifier for the stereo on a 2005 Sundancer 260. It is a JL Audio M400/4 400W amplifier that calls for a 4 gauge power cable. My question is where should the power cable to the amplifier be connected to? Directly to the battery? To the battery selector switch? How is this done? How about the ground? Sorry, but having a tough time finding a clear answer to this. Appreciate the help. Thanks.
 
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Hello everyone. I'm looking to install an amplifier for the stereo on a 2005 Sundancer 260. It is a JL Audio M400/4 400W amplifier that calls for a 4 gauge power cable. My question is where should the power cable to the amplifier be connected to? Directly to the battery? To the battery selector switch? How is this done? How about the ground? Sorry, but having a tough time finding a clear answer to this. Appreciate the help. Thanks.

I have always installed my power and ground lines directly to the battery. Use the appropriate fused connection to the power (+) line of course. This is the way my 260 is wired.
 
Hello everyone

I have been shopping for a new boat recently, and have decided on a 2006 260DA. It's fully loaded, Black hull, matching black trailer, 496 big block, 350 hrs, 5kw gen, 490 hrs, windless, AC, heat, freshwater boat from Nevada one owner. I currently have a 2007 185 Sport that I purchaced new and have put 450 hrs on it. I have not had a chance to see the boat yet, and the deal is contingent on an inspection and sea trial. It is for sale at a reputable dealership and they have offered me a fair trade value.


I Have read just about every forum out there on these boats, and am aware that some people have an issue with the handling, but am confident that I now understand how to trim the boat correctly to avoid these issues.


I am just looking for any advice on what I should be looking for on the lake test.


Thanks for all of the great info, I throughly enjoy reading all of the posts.
 
Hello everyone

I have been shopping for a new boat recently, and have decided on a 2006 260DA. It's fully loaded, Black hull, matching black trailer, 496 big block, 350 hrs, 5kw gen, 490 hrs, windless, AC, heat, freshwater boat from Nevada one owner. I currently have a 2007 185 Sport that I purchaced new and have put 450 hrs on it. I have not had a chance to see the boat yet, and the deal is contingent on an inspection and sea trial. It is for sale at a reputable dealership and they have offered me a fair trade value.


I Have read just about every forum out there on these boats, and am aware that some people have an issue with the handling, but am confident that I now understand how to trim the boat correctly to avoid these issues.


I am just looking for any advice on what I should be looking for on the lake test.


Thanks for all of the great info, I throughly enjoy reading all of the posts.
That sounds like a great package! I'm a little fond of the black hull too! The main thing I would check other than the obvious is the connection for the lower hull to the upper hull....right near the back of the boat where the black meets the white under the rub rail. Make sure the 5200 sealant has not dried out here and that there is no gap between the upper and lower hull at the hull joint. Use a bright light from inside the boat and look up from outside the boat. If there is a gap water may get in the boat in large seas. Reseal and use longer fasteners if needed.
 
If the boat has the "original built in drop down TV," it is an analog TV and will not pick up any stations without a digital converter. Make sure at WOT it is within the recommended RPM range. Run your hand up under the oil pan to check for rust/corrosion. Make sure to get a survey including compression test on engine and gen. Find out when an outdrive service was last done-bellows, shift cable, gimbal bearing, etc. Check the trim gauge and function of the button on the throttle for trim/tilt. Push gently for trim up and push until it clicks for tilt up. As for the gen, have the owner fire it up and check all electrical components. I have had only a minor issue or two with mine, but you read horror stories about them on here. We stay on the hook a lot, so it is important to us.

As for operation, read every thread that Dave S. has put on this forum. He has a really good one on how to handle the issues that a lot of people have with the 240/260. I had never driven a cruiser in my life, read his thread on handling, and have never not once had an issue. I rarely, almost never, use the tabs. His comments regarding fuel burn, cruising rpm, etc. are dead on.

I trust you have a 3/4 ton vehicle to pull it with. A 1/2 ton will work for 5-10 mile runs, but more than that, and it is just not enough. The book says the boat weighs 7500 lbs. I have never weighed mine, but with a 1,000 lb aluminum trailer, I think mine pushes 11-12k loaded up.

Good luck and have fun!

Bennett
 
We love ours too and use the heck out of it. Any questions, ask. We don't have the Gen which we miss, but make do. It's a great great boat all around. We bought it in Iowa and towed it back to NY with a 1/2 ton pickup, and agree that it's do-able, but 3/4 ton would have been a lot less strain on the truck.
 
I had never driven a cruiser in my life, read his thread on handling, and have never not once had an issue. I rarely, almost never, use the tabs.

i,m wondering if the 260 is a touch more stable than the 240. on my 2006 240 no way to spend a day without constatly balancing her by the tabs . this season i will try to locate my heavier equipment ( toolbox etc) as down as possible, in the forward bilge where the showerpump sits.

best !
 
i,m wondering if the 260 is a touch more stable than the 240. on my 2006 240 no way to spend a day without constatly balancing her by the tabs . this season i will try to locate my heavier equipment ( toolbox etc) as down as possible, in the forward bilge where the showerpump sits.

best !

I have no idea about a 240, but I rarely ever use my tabs. With a strong side wind, I have used them a time or two. Evenly distributing weight as much as possible will make things more stable.

Bennett
 
So we are still waiting for the river to thaw so we can do our survey. However I was wondering if anyone can advise on a dinghy setup for an 05 260DA. The hitch is that I am on the larger side at 6'6 380lbs so it needs to be able to transport me and at least 1 other person plus any supplies. Would it just be easier to get a dock or anchor/moor in an area serviced by water taxi?

Thoughts?
 
i think you will struggle to find a tender that is able to carry a man of your size+another adult+ gear and simulaty will fit onboard a 260 in inflated condition.

the smallest rubber rafts which will realistically carry two normal sized adults+ outboard are 10-11 feet long , so far more than the beam of a 260.

but take it positive - when you are really 6´6 feet 380 lbs nobody will have the idea to steal your boat :)
 
I figured as much. What about doing away with motor and sticking with oars?
 
also with oars you are at least at 10-11 feet , so no way to keep it stored at the stern. you could try foredeck but you give up any space there , not to talk how it looks like.

when really needed i see only the chance to keep it packed onboard , get a 12 volt airpump and inflate when needed. but in practice i tell you that you get frustrated after two times doing it that way.



for what do you need a tender when your mothership is small enough to enter tight docks ?
 
also with oars you are at least at 10-11 feet , so no way to keep it stored at the stern. you could try foredeck but you give up any space there , not to talk how it looks like.

when really needed i see only the chance to keep it packed onboard , get a 12 volt airpump and inflate when needed. but in practice i tell you that you get frustrated after two times doing it that way.



for what do you need a tender when your mothership is small enough to enter tight docks ?
I was thinking more along the lines of being able to go ashore when moored or anchored. The inflate when you need it option would not be so bad.
 

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