240 Sundeck Thread - Questions and Answers

Has anyone figured out a way to fly a burgee from the bow area? I thought it may be possible to place a pole through the anchor hold lid (where the line comes through when anchored out) and secure it to the swim ladder somehow. Would like to hear any other ideas.
 
2005 Sundeck 240: Anyone know where the fuse block is? My water pump isn't working, and I want to check the fuse. Thanks!
 
Look in the compartment in front of the helm, there is a removable panel, under the steering wheel. The light is attached to it in my boat. Fuses are in there.
But first i would check for voltage at the pump. My pump went bad. It is an easy replacement from the camper supply people, or Amazon.
 
randmhall said:
Look in the compartment in front of the helm, there is a removable panel, under the steering wheel. The light is attached to it in my boat. Fuses are in there.
But first i would check for voltage at the pump. My pump went bad. It is an easy replacement from the camper supply people, or Amazon.
Click to expand...

Thanks Randmhall! That was exactly where the fuse block was.

My fuse was indeed good. I will now check for power at the water pump, which I've never done before. I have a light bulb circuit tester with an alligator clip on one end and a sharply pointed probe on the other. My guess is that I put the alligator clip on the negative battery terminal, and I poke the probe into a red wire connected to the pump. If it lights up, I'll change the water pump. If it doesnt light up, I'll check out the pump's ground wire connection.

Does this sound logical? I'm obviously no electrician, but want to be somewhat independent of expensive repairmen.

Thanks,
Morgueman (Eric)
 
Purchased my new-to-me 2005 240 Sundeck a couple of months ago. I have a fishfinder that I want to install sitting on the top of the dash. Does anyone have any tips for running the transducer line from the lower transom to the dashboard. Thank you.
 
Just follow the control cables and other wires. There is a lot of room under the starboard side where the other cables and wires go. Just use some zip ties to hold the wires up, so they don't rub and short out vibrating when under way. I ran power cables from the battery to the helm in my boat in about 15 minutes. The tightest area is around the partition under the wet bar sink.
 
Prop Question

Hi all ...well my family and I have completed our first Sea Ray season on our 2011 240 sun deck...we love it...I am in Ontario Canada where boating season is too short. It's been put away for a little over a month and I can't wait to get back out on it..... my question and if I should be posting this some where else please advise.....

I have the 350 mag bravo3 24p set up and it's great but would like to get a better cruise speed in the mid range 3000-3500 rpm which is approx 23mph -28mph. We generally like to go on day cruises at least one day per weekend and some water sports. I have read that going to a 4x3 or 4x4 prop helps and bumps up the speed and holds plane better at this range Does anyone have experience with this?
Did I mention I would like to not loose any top speed not that a ride wot often but it usually tops out around 49mph at 5100rpm broke 50mph a couple of time when all conditions were perfect.
Thanks in advance and really enjoy this site and the sea ray culture
Jeff
 

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I am a new user to this site. Not much of a mechanic so have depended on local mechanic for all service. Owner of a 2007 Sea Ray 240 Sundeck. About 300 hours. I have had the boat since new. Started to experience some 'slipping/delay' when shifting into both forward and reverse. About a 3-5 second delay before engaging in gear. Causing soem concern when docking. Had my local Mercrusier mechanic take a look last weekend. Unfortunately, he thinks the cone clutch needs to be replaced. He thought it was unusual for both forward and reverse to both be having problems with only 300 hours. Has anyone had similar issues?
Thanks


SunBurns... Any update to this post? My 2007 240 SD is experiencing the same thing now with 575 hours. . An short delay going into forward or reverse. My mechanic wants to replace the clutch assembly and associated gear set. Around $1600 to $1800... Did you go ahead with the fix? Did it correct the problem?

John
 
I just replaced my cone clutch this fall. Same symptoms, 450 hours on the boat. I had it in for winterizing at the local dealer, clutch, water pump impeller, filters and all were $1100.00 Of course I don't know if the shifting pri=blems are fixed since it is on the hard until spring...
 
Hi Everyone!

I have a Humminbird PiranhaMAX 160 fishfinder, and I want to mount the transducer without drilling holes in my stern. I would like to epoxy it inside the engine compartment of my 2005 240 Sundeck. I checked with Humminbird Customer Support, and they said that the sonar signals will transmit through the hull if it's less than 1" thick and is 100% fiberglass (ie. no filler, wood, cores, etc.).

Is the material of the bottom of the hull 100% fiberglass and less than 1" thick?

Any tips for mounting? I'm not very mechanically-inclined; therefore, feel free to be detailed even if you think something is obvious.

Thank you!
Morgueman (Eric)
 
Morgueman said:
Hi Everyone!

I have a Humminbird PiranhaMAX 160 fishfinder, and I want to mount the transducer without drilling holes in my stern. I would like to epoxy it inside the engine compartment of my 2005 240 Sundeck. I checked with Humminbird Customer Support, and they said that the sonar signals will transmit through the hull if it's less than 1" thick and is 100% fiberglass (ie. no filler, wood, cores, etc.).

Is the material of the bottom of the hull 100% fiberglass and less than 1" thick?

Any tips for mounting? I'm not very mechanically-inclined; therefore, feel free to be detailed even if you think something is obvious.

Thank you!
Morgueman (Eric)
Click to expand...

OK...Scratch the idea of attaching the transducer in the engine compartment. I decided that I want the best image possible, and I found a way to attach the transducer to the stern without drilling holes below the water line. I'm going to use the Stern Saver (www.sternsaver). Now my question for all of you is...Where would you install the transducer? Here's a photo with what I think are the only three choices.

Ericishot.jpg
 
Thanks Jim...That's helpful. My only concern with that location was turbulent water flow due to its close proximity to the sterndrive, but glad to hear it works. I'll probably go with that location as well.

Any pics of where you drilled the hole for the transducer wire?
Any tips for drilling the hole to prevent unnecessary damage (hairline cracks, chipping of the gelcoat or fiberglass)?
Did you simply put a marine grade sealant in the hole before inserting the bolt?
 
Jim???

Nope never had a problem with turbulence.

Will have to see what if i have any other pics i thought i did, but that was the only one i could find on this system.
As you can see i went straight up with the wire and drilled through above the water line. Used a clam shell wire cover.
Not through bolts on the transducer, but yes used marine grade sealant on all the screws plus filled the hole under the clam shell cover and through hole with sealant.
Good trick to help with the gelcoat is to run the drill backwards to get through the gelcoat.
Hope this helps.

Chuck
 
Thanks CHUCK....My bad. Appreciate you taking the time to help.

(Sometimes I have a hard time with the timeline of emails in the Gmail system, and somewhere along the line I saw the name, "Jim Maier")

Eric
 
Np. Jim is the owner. Great guy but don't tell him I said so..... don't won't. It to go to his head. Just kidding. Great guy
 
I need to get my fishfinder transducer wire into the engine compartment and eventually under the dashboard. My question is...Where do I drill the hole in the stern? According to the manual, the waterline is 41 inches higher than the tip of the lowest point of the prop blade, and this puts it just 2-3 inches below where the lower edge of the swim platform is. I really hate to put a hole that close to the waterline, especially with the stern dropping while driving around.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thank you,
Eric
 
I just went out and looked at a variety of boats we have, the common place the flow tube was drilled through was 10-12" to the right of the head of the transom assembly.

Brandon Johnson Heartland Marine
 
thekidcansell said:
I just went out and looked at a variety of boats we have, the common place the flow tube was drilled through was 10-12" to the right of the head of the transom assembly.

Brandon Johnson Heartland Marine
Click to expand...

Thanks for taking a look! Forgive my ignorance...What's a flow tube? What's the "transom assembly?" (and then maybe it'll be obvious what the "head" of it is).
 
srclub2.jpg I'm new to this so I hope the picture worked. A flow tube might not be the correct term now that I think about it. I call all through transom wiring a flow tube, either a water flow tube for a paddle wheel speedo, or information flow tube for a transducer.
 
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