240 Sundeck Thread - Questions and Answers

No pics handy, sorry. The Bazooka tube has a built in amp. I put it under the helm so I didn't have to drill holes, and I can take it with me when I leave the boat in a public area. (Keeps it from walking away.) My son's high school friends think the the sound is awesome, so I must have done something right.
It muffles the bass a little bit if you shut the door, but I usually keep mine open; it keeps the wind off the admiral, and provides easier access to the drinks.

Another easy way is to use a five channel amp. I had one in my old truck, and used it with a sub box behind the rear seat. There are several on Amazon in the $200.00 range that provide 4 channels at 50 watts with 200 to the sub, all in one simple unit. A tapered sub box for a pickup fits nicely between the helm and the ice chest. I helped a friend do it this way in his boat.

I didn't like the exposed location under the rear lounger because my kids are always dripping wet. I keep fenders and extra life jackets under that seat, and didn't want to have to build a custom box to protect the back side of the sub.
 
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Have you tried Lakecrest Marine in New Baltimore? 586 725 9800. They have a lot of deckboats/bowriders. Its where I bought mine last year.
 
I am looking to add SeaDek to my swim platform. SeaDek has a template for a 2006 240 Sundeck, I have a 2007 240 Sundeck. The hauls and swim platforms look to be the same on both models.

Can anyone tell me if the hauls are the same or if they have used the SeaDek template for a 2007 240 Sundeck.




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Randmhall, what model Bazooka did you purchase? I am debating between the 8" and 10" powered models (includes amp).

randmhall said:
I got a $100 amp from walmart and mounted it on the forward bulkhead under the helm by the ice chest. My head unit is in the same compartment so wiring was easy. Just used the pre-amp outs from the Clarion CMD4, then back to the factory speaker wiring. I put the Bazooka tube in the same spot, just forward of the ice chest. I did run a dedicated power wire to the battery since the amps potentially pulls a lot. That is the way the factory wiring diagram shows it. Total investment under $300, including heavy power wire and a fuze from auto zone. The stock sony speakers in my boat sound fine, they just need more power than the clarion delivers.

Keep it simple, it is a boat for jamming tunes while drinking beer. The expensive stuff is for the media room in the house.
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First time boat owner so bare with me if you need more information to answer my question, and thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

I purchased a used 2003 240SD with the 6.2 Mer and brovo III's earlier this year.

boat has 157 hrs and just had the annual tune up a few weeks ago.

My question comes from this past weekend, I took it out with 6 of my friends for a fun afternoon on the lake. I'm really worried as my top speed was 42 mph and topping the rpm's at 4400. The tech had shown some concern because the bravo III's are 26p he said most of the SD's he's seen have 22's or 24's.

The online manual says 26 is the right size for my engine. Any advice would be great!

Also I live in Arizona, and the lakes are around 800 ft above sea level. If you need anymore information please let me know, again any advice would be greatly appritiated!
 
I have a 2003 240 Sundeck, It originally had a 5.0 260 HP engine with a Bravo 3 and 22P prop. I recently repowered with a Merc 6.3 383 Stroker 350 HP. I tried the 22 P props on it and my speed stayed at @ 43 mph at 5200 rpm. I found a used set of 24P props and my speed went to 48 mph at 5000 rpm. I would look for a set of 24P props.

Jim
 
ksweetla said:
First time boat owner so bare with me if you need more information to answer my question, and thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

I purchased a used 2003 240SD with the 6.2 Mer and brovo III's earlier this year.

boat has 157 hrs and just had the annual tune up a few weeks ago.

My question comes from this past weekend, I took it out with 6 of my friends for a fun afternoon on the lake. I'm really worried as my top speed was 42 mph and topping the rpm's at 4400. The tech had shown some concern because the bravo III's are 26p he said most of the SD's he's seen have 22's or 24's.

The online manual says 26 is the right size for my engine. Any advice would be great!

Also I live in Arizona, and the lakes are around 800 ft above sea level. If you need anymore information please let me know, again any advice would be greatly appritiated!
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Try it with just you in it and light gear and report back - otherwise we're making guesses based on some variables and that's not accurate. The more weight you put in a boat, the slower it's going to go. With just you, you're looking to get the RPM's up to around 5,000 -- then the boat is "technically" propped correctly. If you're always going to have a larger load in the boat, then you may want to prop down - just keep in mind that if you're running light you could over-rev the engine.

Is the bottom clean? Are the props in perfect shape?
 
Thank you for the quick responses.

Bottom is clean, props are in good shape (no gashes, or tweeks).

I'm headed out to Havasu this weekend to watch the Desert Storm Shoot Out. I'll have a chance to take it out alone and see where I top out at.

Thank you guys!
 
Scored on Woot.com, thanks for the tip randmhall! Question on install, what do I need to supply power to the sub? Is there a single cable that runs from the battery to the sub? How did you route yours and how much length is required? Also, did you use the RCA cables to connect, or did you go the high pass route?

Thanks

randmhall said:
I got the 10" (non marine) 250watt model. Woot.com has been running specials for about half off on those, every 3rd week or so. Good luck.
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Glad you got the sub!

I mounted mine in the locker under the helm. it just fits between the helm bulkhead and the ice chest :)

You need a circuit breaker near the main battery and 25+ feet of wire, both positive and negative. I used 4 gauge wire. Add the amp draw for the sub and any main amp you might add later. I used a 50amp breaker. You can get the breaker from most auto parts stores or stereo shops. The breaker was installed right next to the battery switch I ran the wire across the front of the engine compartment, then though the sink area, and followed the existing wiring and shift cables forward to the helm, continuing on to the sub. several wire ties along the way kept it neat. I actually installed a small distribution block at the helm area, to feed the main amp, and mounted everything on the partition wall in between the helm storage/under bow seat storage areas.

My Clarion amp has RCA sub out, so I used those. It just took a bit to figure out that the sub output could be boosted from a menu on the clarion. It was originally set real low.

I don't want to start an audiophile debate over the benefits of monster cable vs lamp cord; but the wire they sell at the audio shops is expensive. A nice set of jumper cables will provide the wire that will carry the load. I found that 25 feet each of positive and negative 4 gauge from the stereo store will cost more than you paid for the sub. On the other hand, that gold plated monster cable with the translucent red jacket is real pretty.

You DO need heavy wire to feed a high current amp. Basic physics, P=IV, so 400 watts of amplifier power from a 12 volt source will need 35 amps or more. That requires wire like your clothes dryer uses. Don't use small wire, or you risk an electrical fire. Probably while you have the tunes cranking, as you swim in a cove somewhere.

Good luck!
 
Just bought a 2004 240 Sundeck today and it will be delivered to my marina on Monday. Two owner boat, great condition and showed really well. Owner had a folder of all work done to the boat with notes, receipts and it was all done by the same mechanic.

The boat was repowered with a 6.3L Mercruiser Stoker factory refurbished engine and currently has 47 hours. Only thing the owner did not get around to addressing is the props. The B3 drive has the stock props matched to the stock 5.0L engine. I am sure it will hit the rev limiter, however, I do plan on running heavy with at least 4 adults, full fuel and several 4-10yr kids. I'll never look to break any speed records so the WOT running will be kept to an absolute minimum. Think I need to add more pitch to the props or just leave it be considering how I will be using the boat which will be loaded pulling skiers, wake boarders and tubes?

Boat need a good bath and wax and that's about it. Can't wait to get in the water!!

JK
 
SeaNile said:
Just bought a 2004 240 Sundeck today and it will be delivered to my marina on Monday. Two owner boat, great condition and showed really well. Owner had a folder of all work done to the boat with notes, receipts and it was all done by the same mechanic.

The boat was repowered with a 6.3L Mercruiser Stoker factory refurbished engine and currently has 47 hours. Only thing the owner did not get around to addressing is the props. The B3 drive has the stock props matched to the stock 5.0L engine. I am sure it will hit the rev limiter, however, I do plan on running heavy with at least 4 adults, full fuel and several 4-10yr kids. I'll never look to break any speed records so the WOT running will be kept to an absolute minimum. Think I need to add more pitch to the props or just leave it be considering how I will be using the boat which will be loaded pulling skiers, wake boarders and tubes?

Boat need a good bath and wax and that's about it. Can't wait to get in the water!!

JK
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I recently posted this a few posts down.

"I have a 2003 240 Sundeck, It originally had a 5.0 260 HP engine with a Bravo 3 and 22P prop. I recently repowered with a Merc 6.3 383 Stroker 350 HP. I tried the 22 P props on it and my speed stayed at @ 43 mph at 5200 rpm. I found a used set of 24P props and my speed went to 48 mph at 5000 rpm. I would look for a set of 24P props."

You should also make sure the previous owner did the 25 hour break in oil and filter change.

PS: Congrats on the new boat! You have a winning combination with the new engine.
 
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Thanks for the info. I'm going to call a prop shop and see how much pitch and cup could be added to the current props. I'm not interested in spending $$$ for new props!
 
Boat was delivered today and despite the constant drizzle I couldn't help myself and cleaned the boat and crawled all around. I do have one immediate question regarding the port bench seat, aft of the bucket seat. How does it open?? I can open it slightly to see it has storage under there but it looks like there is a latch holding the cushion down. The seat will slide aft if I remove the small corner cushion, but not enough to get into the storage area. It won't slide forward because there is a brace that does not allow the cushion to slide forward.

So, how do I get that cushion off without breaking it??? I can see the straps in the storage area so I know the area is supposed to be storage.

Thanks.

JK
 
Here are a few pics.
trailerdelivery.jpg










Outdrive needs to be sanded then primer and paint.
 
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