240 Sundeck Thread - Questions and Answers

I also added LED strip lights in the rear under seat storage, under the sink and in the ski locker. They are all wired to the “cabin lights” switch on the dash. The strip lights under the sink and seat storage extend in to the side pockets illuminating that area also. We love this set up.

Can you share details on how you wired this up to the cabin light switch? My son and I were just talking about this exact type of setup..
 
Hello world ! I’m new to this forum. Just bought a 2011 240 sundeck. Problem is when I go to start it, it will intermittently just click when you go through the starting process I’ve been instructed. Emergency kill off, battery or batteries on, key on, wait for system check sequence then push start button. Sometimes it will fire right up but most time it just clicks as though the starter solenoid is bad. I also get a “system failure” msg and after reading more info it digitally says “starting procedure aborted”. I removed battery cables and cleaned (positive posts and ancillary hot wires attached to one battery. Didn’t help. No owners manual came with the boat and so far haven’t found a printed SeaRay manual. Sound familiar? Any guidance is appreciated. Kevin
 
Can you share details on how you wired this up to the cabin light switch? My son and I were just talking about this exact type of setup..
I've changed all the OEM cabin lights to LED and tapped in to that circuit ad the additional lights. Fairly simple to do. It has made a huge difference though.
 
I have a 2006 Sundeck 240 in black, looking for anyone will to part with their isinglass enclosure canvas in black. Will offer fair price if in good condition.
 
Anyone replace bilge pump on their 240, mine is an 04. Bilge pump works fine, but we are planning a 5 day trip on Grand lake, and would like to have a spare. Is there a direct replacement, or what are my best options?
Thanks
 
Anyone replace bilge pump on their 240, mine is an 04. Bilge pump works fine, but we are planning a 5 day trip on Grand lake, and would like to have a spare. Is there a direct replacement, or what are my best options?
Thanks
You'll have to physically look at what you have. There's no guarantees that what someone else has is what you have.
 
Hello world ! I’m new to this forum. Just bought a 2011 240 sundeck. Problem is when I go to start it, it will intermittently just click when you go through the starting process I’ve been instructed. Emergency kill off, battery or batteries on, key on, wait for system check sequence then push start button. Sometimes it will fire right up but most time it just clicks as though the starter solenoid is bad. I also get a “system failure” msg and after reading more info it digitally says “starting procedure aborted”. I removed battery cables and cleaned (positive posts and ancillary hot wires attached to one battery. Didn’t help. No owners manual came with the boat and so far haven’t found a printed SeaRay manual. Sound familiar? Any guidance is appreciated. Kevin
Go to Sea Ray Website and you can print both owner's manual and parts manual. I had a similar problem with my 2002 and sometimes I just couldn't even get it start after I shut it down on the lake. Turned out that all of my connections were corroded ; some sandpaper. elbow grease and a little WD-40 did the trick. It now runs like a brand new machine.
 
Thanks Norris- I did check all connections positive and negative. Turns out the starter was rusted and bad. I had the starter replaced and now it starts every time
 
You'll have to physically look at what you have. There's no guarantees that what someone else has is what you have.
That is why I was asking, the one in my boat (appears to be original) looks nothing like anything I am seeing on line. So I was curious if someone knew what was stock in this year model boat and if there was a direct replacement.
 
That is why I was asking, the one in my boat (appears to be original) looks nothing like anything I am seeing on line. So I was curious if someone knew what was stock in this year model boat and if there was a direct replacement.
I didn't mean what I said in a crass way. My point is that it's possible that different pumps could have been used by the factory in different 2004 240SD's. And, since you haven't had the boat since new, there's another chance that it has been changed... possibly more than once.

The only way to know FOR SURE what you have (to try and find a direct replacement) is to take pictures/write down model info and start googling - or ask a local retailer to help you find one. You could also post it here. But, the point is... you know better than us :)
 
Hello world ! I’m new to this forum. Just bought a 2011 240 sundeck. Problem is when I go to start it, it will intermittently just click when you go through the starting process I’ve been instructed. Emergency kill off, battery or batteries on, key on, wait for system check sequence then push start button. Sometimes it will fire right up but most time it just clicks as though the starter solenoid is bad. I also get a “system failure” msg and after reading more info it digitally says “starting procedure aborted”. I removed battery cables and cleaned (positive posts and ancillary hot wires attached to one battery. Didn’t help. No owners manual came with the boat and so far haven’t found a printed SeaRay manual. Sound familiar? Any guidance is appreciated. Kevin

You can just google search "Sea Ray Sundeck 240 2011 manual" many links will show.
Here is the first one I found - https://manualzz.com/doc/53332907/sea-ray-2011-sea-ray-240-sundeck-owners-manual
You can also go to https://www.searay.com/us/en/owners.html they keep the owners and parts manuals. What is harder to find are the Mercruiser manuals, but they can be found too, it just takes more work.
 
The last couple times I towed mine (highway speeds for maybe 20 minutes of 35 minute trip), the engine hatch cover popped open. Anyone else have this happen and any clean looking solutions?
I tow with the pass thru window latched closed as I believe you should. The hatch lift arm still feels good and I believe that only functions to assist with opening and not with keeping closed.
 
The last couple times I towed mine (highway speeds for maybe 20 minutes of 35 minute trip), the engine hatch cover popped open. Anyone else have this happen and any clean looking solutions?
I tow with the pass thru window latched closed as I believe you should. The hatch lift arm still feels good and I believe that only functions to assist with opening and not with keeping closed.
You could replace the inner, rubber hold down - I'm sure it's worn-out by now. Although.... I "think" that was an addition sometime during the 2005 model year run - if you don't have the hold down then you must have an early '05. You could install that. Although the exterior latch (second suggestion) would be a quicker install.

You could install a rubber latch on the side of the stbd motorbox lid.

You could lay a sandbag on top - use something like a waterproof tent hold down bag. A rubber-coated weight lifting plate would work, too.

If you have the bow and cockpit covers, they're designed to be trailered with. The motorbox will still pop up underneath since the rubber hold down is worn out (or non-existent), of course.
 
You could replace the inner, rubber hold down - I'm sure it's worn-out by now. Although.... I "think" that was an addition sometime during the 2005 model year run - if you don't have the hold down then you must have an early '05. You could install that. Although the exterior latch (second suggestion) would be a quicker install.

You could install a rubber latch on the side of the stbd motorbox lid.

You could lay a sandbag on top - use something like a waterproof tent hold down bag. A rubber-coated weight lifting plate would work, too.

If you have the bow and cockpit covers, they're designed to be trailered with. The motorbox will still pop up underneath since the rubber hold down is worn out (or non-existent), of course.
Can you tell me what this inner rubber hold down is? Gravity seems to be the only think holding the hatch down to the removable bulkhead. Might be worth adding if possible.

Thanks.
 
It's basically a rubber cup that receives a rubber peg. They friction fit together. The cup is upside down in the picture. Not expensive - maybe $15 or $20 from your dealer. But you'll have take care of fabbing up the mounting using an L-bracket for the cup. SR generally mounts it in the middle (behind the handle).

1118314_t.GIF
 
The last couple times I towed mine (highway speeds for maybe 20 minutes of 35 minute trip), the engine hatch cover popped open. Anyone else have this happen and any clean looking solutions?
I tow with the pass thru window latched closed as I believe you should. The hatch lift arm still feels good and I believe that only functions to assist with opening and not with keeping closed.
This what I did with some webbed strap material and snaps, I’m not sure that my boat has what @Lazy Daze is mentioning

IMG_0827.jpeg
IMG_0827.jpeg
 
It's basically a rubber cup that receives a rubber peg. They friction fit together. The cup is upside down in the picture. Not expensive - maybe $15 or $20 from your dealer. But you'll have take care of fabbing up the mounting using an L-bracket for the cup. SR generally mounts it in the middle (behind the handle).

View attachment 154303
Ah. I get it. I did some googling and see some ‘05’s have it and some don’t. Interestingly, some ‘05’s have one gas lift strut and some have two (one each side).

The cup is mounted on the port side of the engine access hole on an L bracket. I just need to figure out the part #’s and how they mounted the male part. My parts manual doesn’t show it but maybe a later model manual will. I was thinking it might be similar to the swim ladder cover hold down part 1118314. In any case it appears to just be a truck door hold back. I‘m on the right track. Gravity just didn’t seem like it would sufficient.

Thanks
 
It's basically a rubber cup that receives a rubber peg. They friction fit together. The cup is upside down in the picture. Not expensive - maybe $15 or $20 from your dealer. But you'll have take care of fabbing up the mounting using an L-bracket for the cup. SR generally mounts it in the middle (behind the handle).

View attachment 154303
Man I wish I would have seen those a couple years ago, I like that idea a lot better. I just ran to the shop to look at my boat. I’m not quite sure exactly how or where to Mount it, but I sure would have tried
 

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