240 Sundeck Thread - Questions and Answers

Ok, just finished the survey. Some issues, as expected.
Two propellers had a slight ding in them, the bottom 2 inches of the skeg is corroded (broken?) off.
The bottom paint is several layers thick, and not super smooth so at some point recommended it be sandblasted off and smooth coat applied.
The bellows will need to be replaced in the next year "or so" (knew this already).
Oil looked clean, no fault codes on engine and it met and slightly exceeded RPMs (so compression is good). We took an oil sample for analysis (will get that back late Monday or Tuesday).
Hull is sound, inside of the boat is clean, upholstery is in very good shape.
The one thing of concern for me - the engine got real hot...the cooling system was not working properly...so the water pump could be bad or it could be the risers need replacing...
Broker called the mechanic who had been maintaining the boat and said the seller would fix the issue.
So, I can live with the propeller/skeg issue as well as the bottom paint issues. Need to get the oil analysis back and see if the over heating engine issue gets fixed.

My question to the group: If the overheating issue is fixed and oil analysis is good, am I crazy to move forward with a purchase?
 
My opinion, if you can get the cooling under control it sounds like everything else is OK. Don't ignore the bottom of the skeg missing, this is typically due to corrosion issues that need to be addressed. Does the boat have a Mercathode system? If so it is working OK? If it does not have one look into having one, or two installed.

I don't think the bottom paint is an issue at all. You can sand that down at your leisure in the winter months. Oil analysis is good but without a history it's hard to see if anything major is going on. Cooling is most important, great to see the WOT is good and everything else checked out OK.

Get the cooling issue resolved (did the engine overheat??) and possibly use the other minor issues as a way to further reduce the price of the boat.

Would also be good if you could talk to the mechanic directly. This will give you a good idea of how the owner cared for the boat, etc.
 
SeaNile said:
My opinion, if you can get the cooling under control it sounds like everything else is OK. Don't ignore the bottom of the skeg missing, this is typically due to corrosion issues that need to be addressed. Does the boat have a Mercathode system? If so it is working OK? If it does not have one look into having one, or two installed.

I don't think the bottom paint is an issue at all. You can sand that down at your leisure in the winter months. Oil analysis is good but without a history it's hard to see if anything major is going on. Cooling is most important, great to see the WOT is good and everything else checked out OK.

Get the cooling issue resolved (did the engine overheat??) and possibly use the other minor issues as a way to further reduce the price of the boat.

Would also be good if you could talk to the mechanic directly. This will give you a good idea of how the owner cared for the boat, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback SeaNile.

The boat has the mercathode system and the zinc. Not sure if the mercathode system is working though.

The engine did not overheat, as soon as the temp went high we shut off the engine and let it cool down. Did a slow pace back to the dock and the engine temp held around 175.

Waiting to hear back on the repair, and will take your advice and see if I can talk to the mechanic.
 
Broker sent me a message "The mechanic replaced the water pump and water tested for 20 minutes with no problem or high temperature".
 
Hi, has anyone changed out the dash remote with the new Clarion MW1? It looks like the dash cut out was designed especially for the older version remote, which is not compatible with the newer head units from Clarion. I think I will need to cut out a larger hole, and even then it wont look too great as the old and new are different shapes.
 
highlife34 said:
Hi, has anyone changed out the dash remote with the new Clarion MW1? It looks like the dash cut out was designed especially for the older version remote, which is not compatible with the newer head units from Clarion. I think I will need to cut out a larger hole, and even then it wont look too great as the old and new are different shapes.
Click to expand...
Yes, I replaced the wired remote on the dash. The original remote was oval and the new remote is circular. After removing the old remote, I used the back of the new remote to trace the new bigger circle opening centered over the smaller oval with a pencil. I used a Dremel tool to cut the new circle. Be careful not to cut the hole too big. Go slow.
 
Thanks Kingsfr, I have a dremel tool so I should be able to do it. Another question, anyone replace their water pump for the faucets? Mine was working and suddenly lost power, I assume it died. It does not make the start up noise any longer when I push the button on the dash. Is this a job a novice can do? The pump is a little tough to get too, but I might be able to reach it.
Thanks!
 
I replaced my water pump a couple of years ago. It was a very simple job, just went down to the local camper superstore and they had one in stock. Had to crawl over the engine to get to the back corner, had my son play physician assistant and hand me tools while i was back there. Seems like it was a $hundred or so. I am told you can just replace the pump diagram if the motor is still good. After taking my old one apart, the diaphragm would be a simple job once the pump was out of the boat.
 
Went out yesterday with 4 adults and 4 kids (8-4yr old) and had a blast. For 24' this boat sure packs a lot of features. Even with full fuel it easily reached 5100rpm and I didn't push it anymore, no sense bouncing off the rev limiter. Just waiting for the water to warm up so we can get in the water and pull out the tubes and skis.
 
Been out with my "New to me" boat 3 times this year. The family and I have had nothing but fun. One issue I am having is loading the boat onto the trailer.
I purchased a new Venture VATB 5925 when I purchased the boat as the boat had been kept in a boatel by the previous owner and had no trailer. When loading the boat onto the trailer it is next to impossible to winch in the last few inches without backing the trailer in until the back end floats.

What has happened is the last outing the handle on the winch stripped and starting spinning freely under any tension. Dealer is replacing this.

My question becomes do I go with some silicon spray, bunk glides? I understand the importance of not undoing the straps/chain until you are in the water with either of these options. I'm concerned with using these that you would have to winch it in a long ways as slippery as these options seem to be. As it is now, if I try loading it on all the way without using the winch, it will slide off 8-12 inches after I back off the throttle. The ramp I use is not steep (Leesylvania State Park for those on the Potomac), however I do trailer to Michigan for summer vacation and use some steep ramps there and they are pretty intolerant of "Power Loading" as well.

Another thought I had while typing this is, if you are backing into a steep ramp, with glides or silicon spray would that not put some heavy tension on your strap, I suppose the tension would be relieved once the back end floats and you can undo the strap and chain then.

Any and all experiences are appreciated.

Thank you,
Tim

 
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ptime - regarding the bunk glides... I posted this a couple of years ago, but is is worth repeating.

Be careful with the bunk slicks, they work too well. I tried them with our old boat, a 22' Wellcraft Cuddy. The ramps near the house are a little steep. So the stern would lift, binding the winch. I got in the habit of loosening the strap one turn before backing down. 1st time I used the slicks, started down, the boat started to move, broke the strap. The boat almost made it the 100' to the water. Stopped with the transom at the waters edge. Not a pretty sight.

I don't use the slicks anymore, I just back in far enough so that it floats. Idle speed drive off, idle speed drive on.
 
I replaced the 'holding' strap on mine with chain. My strap broke once too on a steep ramp the third time i took our new boat out.

One thing I always did was back the trailer all the way in to wet the entire bunk before positioning to load. Seemed to let her slide on up easier.
 
Still loving the boat, although it's only been 3 trips on it so far! Ordered a new steering wheel today because the original one split and is razor sharp on the back edge, just ask my thumb. Went with a Stella Fantasy Series wheel. Who could resist with a name like that?

http://www.allpointsmarineco.com/images/upload/ca023cbb7375fe2ff3b54e947e1c0d3e.jpg

Still think my 22p props need to go and 24p would be much better. Looking for a deal on 24p so if anyone knows of a great deal let me know!
 
jimandsue60 said:
You may want to think about a camper package and a tent for the bow for overnighting for when it gets cooler to extend your boating season!

Jim

8205371647_5429953d4c_z.jpg
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I absolutely love this setup! My wife and I have been talking about buying the front bimini and having custom side curtains made for it but that could be even better! We would love to make our Sundeck into a camper cruiser!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
I am a new user to this site. Not much of a mechanic so have depended on local mechanic for all service. Owner of a 2007 Sea Ray 240 Sundeck. About 300 hours. I have had the boat since new. Started to experience some 'slipping/delay' when shifting into both forward and reverse. About a 3-5 second delay before engaging in gear. Causing soem concern when docking. Had my local Mercrusier mechanic take a look last weekend. Unfortunately, he thinks the cone clutch needs to be replaced. He thought it was unusual for both forward and reverse to both be having problems with only 300 hours. Has anyone had similar issues?
Thanks
 
Yep IMHO the 240sd is a very versatile boat. Spent many nights on her. Now when the wife and girls we had to get a condo. (lol)


miata492 said:
I absolutely love this setup! My wife and I have been talking about buying the front bimini and having custom side curtains made for it but that could be even better! We would love to make our Sundeck into a camper cruiser!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
 
Hi, on my 2004 240 SD, I have 2 drains near the base of the engine compartment. Both of them drain directly into the compartment (bilge). So, whenever I hose down the floor, most of the water is directed towards these 2 drains and ends up in the bilge. Some of the water finds its way into the ski locker which sits there until I sponge it up. Chuck, I am not sure what 1 1/2" tubes you refer to in your old post? Please advise.
 
chuck1 said:
On the 240 the 1 1/2"+-tube/fitting goes out via a through-hull fitting. There is one on both sides of the boat.

I thought the 260SD was the same way, but is has been a while since I looked at it. Check that fitting I think you will find that it has a tube that is directing the water out via a through-hull fitting.
Click to expand...

Where are the thru hull fittings to remove deck water on the 240 SD?
 
The water on the deck will go to two places. One being thru the hatches and into the bilge. The other being thru the 2 deck drains, one the the left of the engine compartment and the other being to the right of the engine compartment just below the transom walk thru. The actual hull fittings are towards the transom on either side of the boat about 3 inches above the water line.

Jim
 
Simple way to confirm that the deck drains are open and to see where they go is get your hose and put the nozzle on full stream and squirt the water in the fitting with a bit of pressure. You'll find out quickly if it's clogged and where the water is draining. It's a good way to learn where all the drains lead, where the sink drains, etc.
 
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