220 DA thread

Marckmann,
My steering used to do that. It went away after I got the outdrive service. Changed impeller and bellows and hose. I was thinking that steering fluid needed to be cool or something. I wasn't getting enough water coming into cool the engine before I had the outdrive service.
 
I had this problem first time out this year. it cleared up and never returned. I'm thinking the pump was dry. cant fix if it aint broke.
 
you should be able to find a manual on the Sea Ray site. if not, I can email you one. I also own a 1989 220DA with a 5.7. Hope to hear more from you.
Mark
 
Anyone know where I can pick up the ER Vents on port and starboard sides. You know the blower vents? 3 of my 4 vents are cracked and in need of replacing.
 
I need pics of the ER gas tank area. I can see the aluminum gas tank on my boat. It seems as there used to be a cover for it. The sides are raised and a cover wound make it flush.

I 'll post a picture but would like to see some pictures of the gas tank (b/w just below the hour meter and engine). thanks..
 
Just a heads up for those that may be searching for leaks on their boat. I had an issue with water coming in from the window near the toilet. It ended up coming from the horn on that side of the boat instead of the window. You never know exactly where these leaks are coming from. Water will travel from wierd areas and end up on other sides of the boat.
 
You know this peace of the floor you move to get to the engine. Dont know what it's called in english - bonnet maybe ?

Well, I would like to make some kind of arrangement that makes it a bit easier to lift it. Maybe hydraulic lifters.

Has any of you a solution for that?
 
Hi There
Came acroos your question regarding water in the bilge I had the same problem and sorted it by extending the hoses of the bilge pump outlet higher up into the hull In other words made the 'gooseneck " in the hose higher as it was letting water in during sharp turns Hope this helps
Regards
Keith
Auckland
New Zealand
 
Klopf said:
You know this peace of the floor you move to get to the engine. Dont know what it's called in english - bonnet maybe ?

Well, I would like to make some kind of arrangement that makes it a bit easier to lift it. Maybe hydraulic lifters.

Has any of you a solution for that?
Click to expand...

The door will need to be placed on hinges and then lifters placed on. You might be able to check out the parts on the bigger DAs and see what they are using. Might be able to retrofit those parts instead of coming up with your own system.
 
Hi all:
I've been keeping my 220 in a boatel, but I'm thinking I need to get a trailer. Does anyone have any advice on what brands/models of trailers I should be looking for, or should I just find a trailer dealer & tell them what boat I have? Is it hard to adjust the rollers etc for a particular boat, or is that best left to the pros also? As you can see, I don't have a clue!
Thanks,
Bobby
 
I would recomend at least a double axle. If you boat in salt go with an alluminum trailer. Brakes on both axles will add improved stopping power. I've never had a roller setup but have never had any issues with bunks. Bunks have lower maintenace cost, easy to adjust and quicker to adjust. Bunks should past the transome to support it.

If your buying used, take an extra detailed look at the condition of axles, brakes, and all joints for corrosion, cracks , and wear.
 
Does anyone know where to get replacement hangers for the curtain on the mid berth? The plastic hangers in the metal runner are broken and I need to get some new ones.
 
I read through about 25 pages of this thread, and if my question is answered in the remaining pages, sorry for bringing this up again, but:

Regarding the stern seat. I'm thinking of raising it several inches, so the top of the seat cushion would be level with the lower edge of the backrest. It would entail some modification to the hinged plywood, since the plywood hinge panel will obstruct the folded legs when in the storage position. If made more narrow to clear the folded legs it will weaken the hinge, but it shouldn't have much stress on it once I add four of these legs: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/76250/377%20710/0/stainless%20legs/Secondary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=stainless%20legs&Ntk=Secondary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=stainless%20legs&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=18&subdeptNum=37&classNum=563
I know Quint has used these for the new helm seat, and I have two on order for my new helm seat. Maybe I should have ordered six!

Will this be a safety issue? Not having the boat in the water, it's hard to judge how safe it will feel on a seat with a small backrest, when the boat is underway in choppy water.
 
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I added four of the legs to my aft bench of my 220 as I also felt it was too low. I did not raise it as high as you suggest as it felt wrong...not enough back support.
 
I just found a photo of your rear seat. I had forgotten you did the rear seat also. I see you used the folding legs for that also. Did you do a modification to the hinged panel, and if not what happens when you fold the seat to be able to access the engine compartment? I'm assuming it still folds, but no longer fits entirely into the recessed area.
 
Well here is what I remember regarding adding the folding stainless legs to the rear bench. (I have CRS so be patient....Can't Remember Sh*t). I played around with different heights with some wood blocks under the seat to find the "sweet" spot. If raised too much the back rest was too low and felt uncomfortable. I think I settled on 3" total additional height. I spent some time positioning the new legs so the bench would still fold up. Here is where I'm foggy....I think I may have removed and altered the plywood connection in the transom to facilitate it folding up?
 
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