2007 310 DA -- Windlass helm switch doesn't go into "on" position

[mobocracy]

Kind of an unpleasant surprise when looking to anchor.

The helm switch to the windlass doesn't go into the normal "on" position where the light lights up. All the other switches on the starboard control panel work (so its probably not the whole EIM going south). No functionality up/down.

I found the solenoid for the windlass in the engine compartment. One weird thing is it only has one blade-type fuse (not burned out) on the left side of the solenoid. It looks like it could have one on the right, but there's no fuse nor did I find one that may have fallen out.

What do I do to troubleshoot this? I feel like I'm gonna have to dig in under the windlass to see if there's a fuse or breaker under there, but my gut tells me that drive electronics up by the bow aren't what's preventing it from turning "on" at the helm, it's something in the solenoid in the engine room.

 

[unsalted]

How about the breaker fuse on the dc panel under the sink?

 

[wyrman]

Maybe it's one of the fuses that's accessible directly under the wheel.

 

[Fill Ess]

Definitely check the wiring up at the windlass too. When I got my 300 DA, the windlass didn't work at all from the helm, but the foot pedals on the bow worked fine. Turns out it was two wires that came loose in the anchor locker. Do your bow switches work?

Also when you work the helm switches -- do you hear a click of the solenoid? Or nothing at all?

 

[mobocracy]

We were out at the boat, but I didn't have any electrical tools or much time to deep-dive this. I did swap the lone 5A ATO fuse on the windless power latching solenoid in the engine room, but to no change in status. I don't get any clicking sound on the solenoid when turning the windlass on.

None of the other breakers/fuses I can find (helm EIM, main breaker by the battery switches under the helm seat) seem bad. Upon further inspection, there's only "supposed" to be one fuse on the windlass power solenoid as there's no circuit on the other side (which I assume is the Windlass in the off position which has nothing to power).

I looked at the windlass wiring diagram in the owner's manual, and near as I can tell there's no other fuse or breaker for the windlass. This is a kind of tricky thing to google for answers as it seems that there's a fair bit of variation in windlass circuits between boat model/years and even windlass models. I spent some of my time chasing a second independent breaker that others had, but between the wiring diagram in the manual and tracing wires, there's none to be found.

My troubleshooting plan is something like this:

1) Replace windlass main power solenoid. Cheap part, easy to get to and easy to replace. Mine is labeled with a part number 01-00055-000, which is an Intellitec battery disconnect relay and an identical visual match online to the part in the engine room.

I'm also guessing the windlass "on" status on the dash is achieved in by a return circuit to the EIM when the solenoid is latched in the ON position, lighting the LED on the dash. The vendor's sample wiring diagram shows this kind of control panel circuit.

It would make sense then if this solenoid has gone bad, it won't show "on" on the panel because it never latches into the on position and won't provide return power for the dash LED.

2) If the solenoid doesn't fix it, I'm going to bypass the solenoid and manually combine the DC hot and windlass circuit. If the windlass will work (not actual work, just spin the gypsy enough to know it should work) then I've probably got a bad helm switch/EIM circuit. This is not a great outcome, but potentially survivable if I'm willing to bypass the dash power button with a separate switch.

If it doesn't work, check that supply voltage at the windlass control box. But this would only seem likely if the solenoid worked and it "turned on" but the windlass wouldn't run.

3) Pull the windlass and check its circuits. I'm mostly convinced the windlass itself isn't at issue here, as I don't see any reasonable way the windlass control box is providing status voltage to the dash light.

There's two confusing things:

1) The factory wiring diagram shows a Windlass Breaker A and B. I'm guessing this is the helm EIM breaker (which isn't tripped) and the battery switch panel breaker (also not tripped, though I did do a manual reset). Not some hidden other breaker I can't find.

2) The same diagram shows two fuses on the main power solenoid. I only have one and the off side of the side without a fuse doesn't have a circuit. Solenoid seems OEM level of install and not a previous owner hack, so I'm guessing this is an error in the wiring diagram image.

 

[wyrman]

The up and down solenoids are in the anchor locker, right behind the mirror at the head of the bed.
I can't see that they would have anything to do with your problems, just letting you know that's where they are.
The foot switches attach to them.

 

[wyrman]

I'm not sure if these pics will help, or not.
This is in the anchor locker.

 

[unsalted]

Here is the wiring diagram from 2001 era 310 (1998-2002?). The only fuse it shows is on the breaker panel beneath the sink (with battery on/off switches). Hope this helps.

 

[mobocracy]

The up and down solenoids are in the anchor locker, right behind the mirror at the head of the bed.
I can't see that they would have anything to do with your problems, just letting you know that's where they are.
The foot switches attach to them.

Thanks for that. I'm curious, is there a literal control box as pictured in the manual's wiring schematic for the windlass? The schematic shows the foot petals and helm up/down buttons connected to a box, but I think this is a bit of a convention. My windlass, a Quick Antares 1000, has an OEM motor solenoid that's kind of a box but not quite so literal as the drawing.

I agree that it seems unlikely my problem ("not turning on") is related to any of the actual windlass drive electronics. I think if it was, it would turn on but not operate or turn on and then blow the main breaker by the battery switches or something.

 

[Fill Ess]

Still wondering if the windlass works with the foot switches at the bow. If so that rules out a lot of things.

 

[wyrman]

There is some kind of control box in the anchor locker. The main cables and switch controls are hooked up to them.
I'm not sure if they're just solenoids, or something else.

 

[wyrman]

Still wondering if the windlass works with the foot switches at the bow. If so that rules out a lot of things.

On my 07 310, nothing will work unless the helm switch is turned on.

 

[mobocracy]

I'm not sure if these pics will help, or not.
This is in the anchor locker.

Somehow I missed this post, but that looks a lot like the solenoid control box that Quick sell with their windlass. Kind of hoping I'm not digging into that, as I think if the windlass itself was a problem I'd just spend some money and replace it outright.

 

[mobocracy]

Still wondering if the windlass works with the foot switches at the bow. If so that rules out a lot of things.

No, it doesn't. Doesn't work with foot switches or the helm up down buttons.

 

[Steve S]

My 340DA had two switches at the helm. Had to press both to make anything happen.

 

[mobocracy]

To close out the mystery, I swapped out the main power solenoid and the windlass was back in business.

The only real complication was the power return (red/violent, on the switched side of the solenoid). I mangled the terminal on the end of it which is supposed to be a connector for the solenoid's built-in ATO fuse holder. I ended up splicing in a waterproof ATO fuse holder to the return line and a ring terminal on the other end and just not using the solenoid's fuse holder.

I was kind of surprised how relatively easy all the terminal nuts (switching, line, switched) came loose. They weren't loose loose but not far from it. It makes me wonder if iffy connections contributed to the solenoid's problems. I haven't had a chance to test the one I pulled on my bench, but I'm curious if its actually dead.