2005 280DA holding tank

Henry Boyd said:
Dennis,

He doesn't have a macerator. The plumbing goes out of the vacuum pump on the tank directly into the drink.
Click to expand...

OK. Gotcha. His first post mentions macerator, but then in #17 he said the key doesn't do anything. Probably just a language/translation thing.

Boy, that must be one pretty site going through that thru-hull - nice and lumpy... not even chewed up! (where's a smilie for "vomit" when you need it?)
 
Thank agaın Henry and Dennıs. Both for the reccomendatıons and apprecıatıons.
Im confused about ıf I dont have macerator how the vacuum gen. Dıscharges the waste from under water ?
The local dealer told me Im only needed the tank and the fılter and a few connectıon elements hose wıre etc.

T
 
Thank agan Henry and Denns. Both for the reccomendatons and apprecatons.
Im confused about f I dont have macerator how the vacuum gen. Dscharges the waste from under water ?
The local dealer told me Im only needed the tank and the flter and a few connecton elements hose wre etc.

T
 
Melida,

Look at your picture of the vacum pump and tank (vacuum generator). Look at mine. They are the same. The pump you are looking at is the vacuum pump.

I'm not the expert on this (where is Gary when you need him!), but the way this thing works is that the vacuum pump creates a vacuum in the little tank and line back to the head. When the toilet is flushed, the existing vacuum pulls the contents of the bowl into the line and towards the little tank. The vacuum pump is also energized and continues to move the waste stream through the little tank to either a holding tank, or in your case the ocean. That is why it is very important to hold the toilet lever down long enough to get the waste stream completely ejected from the system. In your case it is probably more critical. The vacuum pump will continue to run until vacuum is restored in the system after you release the toilet lever.

The dealer is right if he is either talking about converting your boat to a pump out only (like mine), or he is thinking about using the tank that Dennis showed you with the new pup installed on it from the factory. I'd go with the tank that Dennis suggested, plus the dockside pump out fitting.

Local Green regulations aside, there is growing regulation at the international level to strictly limit at sea vessel discharges. Even if you don't have them now, there is a good chance in the future (well within the life of your boat) that over the side discharged will be banned. Putting in a dockside fitting will be cheap now and will protect your resale value in the future.

Henry
 
No I dont have that but there s a black unt on the vacuum gen and t s connected wth black hose to the bottom out of the eng room as you can see n the past post pctures.
So sory to my bad Englsh also Im wrtng va phone n the traffc jam t s 7.30 pm
 
No worries about the English - you're fine.

The "black" thing is your actual vacuum generator. That's what Henry is referring as the piece that sucks from the toilet and then also pushes the stuff out. It's got a pretty good push to it, so it is certainly capable of doing it. While it differs in mechanics, it has the same function as a regular macerator does as far as discharging effluent.

Henry brought up a good point about your thru-hull seacock. I *think* I can just barely see a yellow shut-off handle, so you're good with that.

The black hose that is currently going to the bottom of the boat will get re-routed to your new holding tank.

For dockside pump-out, a new hose will go from the holding tank to the waste fitting that will get installed on the topside of the boat (in that blank area near your water fill). This is assuming you have this service available.

To continue with having the option of thru-hull discharge, another hose will go from the new tank to your current thru-hull on the bottom of the boat. The key, in the head, will be wired to the T-pump that is on your new tank. The only way that T-pump will function is if you turn the key all the way to the right (the point where, right now, it does nothing).

If you continue with a thru-hull discharge, you'll want to add a micro-switch under the seacock's handle so that when the handle is in the closed position, it will prevent the tank-mounted T-pump from operating. This procedure can be accomplished other ways, but this is a fool-proof way.

The actual toilet will continue to function as it does now, by turning that key to the first position.
 
Dennis, great thanks.
Im gonna inform you when the sealand dealer comes and tells me what to do.
 
Late Hi again
Henry, Dennis,
Saturday the local dealer of the Sealand also the distributor of the Chriscraft and Mako boats in my country came on board.
They looked to the space where the tank can pass over the engine, checked the (2)sockets on the sboard wall and told that I needed 28gallon holding tank and the tank level unit, vacuum pump for holding tank, macerator and hose to overboard discharge, sanitation filter and hose, dockside pump out hose and deck plate, and a few wires, clamps etc.
If the sockets are usable I won't need to holding tank level indicator and discharge key in head.
They're calculating the bill but I think its gonna be around $1,000 without labor and/or vat.
So after they mail me the list I would buy it from outside from my country such as US to decrease the cost of them.
This summer (2010) I'm planning a long trip (500-600 n.miles)to the Greek Islands 6-7 people on board and stay at marinas so I must have installed the holding tank.
BTW the A/C is installing tomorrow. Im gonna put the pictures tomorrow night.
 
I was surfing the US marine store sites to find how much is the 28-gallon sealand holding tank system ?
In the w..t m..e site it is 899$ and in the d...r 669,99$ decreased from 1022$
If I buy this set will I have all I needed except the hoses and deck vent and deck plate? Because it has the tank, TankWatch® level indicator system, Full level safety shut-off, TankSaver® relief valve, SaniPump™ discharge pump, Two discharge outlets and I think the filter.
Thanks a lot.
 
Hi all.

Finally I decide to buy form USA and gave order to de...er.com holding tank system and sanifilter.

I want to buy as same as the factory installed deck plate "waste" and the hull vent hardware for the filter.

Can anyone know where can I buy them via internet also has international sales?

Great thanks in advance.

Best regards.
 
Dennis & Henry.... Just wanted to publicly thank the both of you. This guy has a unique boat & his project is rare as well. You guys have both stepped up & provided some great information & guidance. I'm learning as well. So....as always...Thanks for posting!
 
boy you're right
if I were living in USA Henry and Dennis would be my best boating friends.
 
Melida & MWPH, thanks for the kind words!:smt001 Want to see something really cool? Do a search using Henry's name as a qualifier and look for "cockpit tables".

For the waste deck plate, I wouldn't be to concerned about getting the "exact" one that Sea Ray uses. While I haven't seen a change in the specific part that they've used over the last number of years (that I noticed, anyways), it's not uncommon for them to do that. A part change can even happen during a model year as they source better deals from other suppliers/manufacturers.

That being said, this Perko unit looks just like mine (although I don't know if the one on my boat actually is Perko, or not). It should look like Henry's, as well: Look at the first one, #0507 http://gator49.hostgator.com/~zeromyst/ecatalog/index.php?cPath=28_159

For the vent, I'm not sure. I suppose one could use a gas vent, making sure it's for a 5/8" hose, but I honestly don't know if there is a difference between a vent used for a waste line compared to a gas line.

The one on my boat does stick out from the hull about 1". Personally, I'd rather it be flush. If you go to Perko's home page (http://perko.com/) and look at their "PDF Catalog", click on "Part No. Index" on the left side and then look for "Fig. No. 0505". The problem there is that particular one is only 1/2".

Maybe they (or someone else) make a 5/8" flush vent? You'll also find more waste deck plates in their PDF catalog as compared to that first link (their online catalog).

As far as who to buy it from that would be easy for you to deal with, I'm not sure. I ship boats overseas, but I've never shipped small parts. I would imagine the shipping costs would be cost prohibitive. All I can say is keep looking, I'm sure you'll find someone that is set up for overseas shipping.
 
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Hi Dennis.

Thanks for your breef explanation.

In my country they charged me 1300 $ for parts and 850$ for labor totally 2150$.

I bought the tank system (includes tank+level indicator+discharge pump and sani filter 745$ plus shipping 290$ makes 1035$. Still saving 265$. I need to buy hose for sani filter and hose for plumbing and clmaps which are cheap in my country.

I also have to buy the vent hardware and the waste out. Today I'm going to marina so take a pic of a 280 installed waste and vent hardwares. I want to install a "waste" as same as "water". My water fill is Perko so thanks for the web adress, gonna check there.

Best regards.
 
The Perko 0556 from Dennis' link looks the closest to the 280 Sea Ray. Waste and water are almost identical except for the writing on the cap, and that the water fitting has the cap chained to the the fill pipe. Both of them (and fuel as well) look like the old style fender mounted chromed automobile gas caps that were popular in the 60's.

Henry
 
When you have time brush down the area around your batteries with a solution of water and baking soda. It would be a good idea to remove the batteries and wash down under the boxes too. It looks like you may have leaked some battery acid. You may want to consider sealed batteries as your next purchase. You are showing some corrosion on the mounting screws of your EIM.

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JV II said:
When you have time brush down the area around your batteries with a solution of water and baking soda. It would be a good idea to remove the batteries and wash down under the boxes too. It looks like you may have leaked some battery acid. You may want to consider sealed batteries as your next purchase. You are showing some corrosion on the mounting screws of your EIM.

attachment.php
Click to expand...

Thanks for your attention.
I'm not a scientist or an electrian to argue with corrosion but if you look at my profile picture I have extra engine room vents different from gas engined 280s the left one is just above the batteries and the right vent is over the place of holding tank.
When cleaning the boat or rain or waves water comes from the vents into the engine room. The vents has hoses angled into the eng room which carries water in it.
So I think they are not acid leak maybe dirt or dust met water. I'm gonna get an electrian on board as soon as possible to check your thought.
Best regards
 
melida said:
I'm not a scientist or an electrian to argue with corrosion...I'm gonna get an electrian on board as soon as possible to check your thought.
Click to expand...

Good plan, but you don't have to be an electrician or scientist or hire one to maintain your boat. This is a routine daily maintenance item you should learn as a boat owner. Your EIM is right next to your battery bank. Your 8D battery caps and positive terminal are showing dry acid residue. It appears that you have dry acid residue on the screws of your Rocket battery box. A simple test will confirm this. Mix up a small cup of water and baking soda. Put it on the white residue in and around your batteries. It it bubbles, you've got acid all over that area from a spill over. It may be from overfilling, overcharging, or bouncing around on waves. That's not what you want in your bilge, especially so close to sensitive electrical components and connections.
 
Hi again,
Finally I've just finished the holding tank project.
I decided and ordered what I need holding tank and its components that I dont have form USA. But when I calculate the items price plus the shipping and the import fees and others became as same price which the local dealer of sealand offered me in my country. As a result of this I cancelled the order from USA.
But I still need a holding tank. I measured my emty space in the engine room dedicated for the holding tank and went to a local fiberglass shop produces water and holding tanks, ordered a 40x40x65(cm) tank which makes 104 liters, which became more affordable and very cheaper. Tank has holes for vent intake and discharge. Bought a TMC 700GPH 12 volt macerator which's intake diameter 1,5 inch and discharge 1 inch. Also bought correspondent size and lenght of hoses clamps and also a deck plate for vent.
Since my boat has a discharge valve/out in the engine room sized 1,5 inch, the discharge hole diameter of the macerator is 1 inch and also the hose where attaches there and to the valve in the bilge must be same so I add a reduction fitting 1,5 to 1inch then attach the hose.
Since there was ready connections for tank level macerator I wired the macerator to the dedicated but I dont have the tankwach so dont attach it.
I can discharge my holding tank by using the key in the head as same as the originals/factory installed boats.
Best regards.
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/holding%20tank%20project/26122009414.jpg
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/holding tank project/26122009415.jpg
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/holding tank project/26122009416.jpg
 
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